Cornish Chronicles: Penzance to Mousehole

On our last afternoon, we took a different sort of coastal walk. No cliff-top paths and deserted coves this time – the walk from Penzance to Mousehole (say it mowzel) is paved all the way. We arrived in Penzance in time for lunch (the Assay House is very good), then had a quick look around before setting off along the promenade. Chapel Street is lined with Georgian buildings, including the weird-looking Egyptian House and the Union Hotel, the first place to receive news of Nelson’s death after the Battle of Trafalgar. Morrab Gardens are also worth a stroll.

A couple of miles along the prom is Newlyn, Britain’s busiest working fishing port. The statue commemorates more than twenty local men who have died fishing since 1980. On a lighter note, we liked the creative approach to hanging baskets!

After leaving Newlyn we passed some quirky scarecrows before coming to another sad memorial at the old Penlee Lifeboat Station. in 1981, the lifeboat Solomon Browne went from here in heavy seas to try to rescue the Union Star which was being driven onto rocks. Both ships were lost with all hands.

Mousehole is a much more picturesque harbour – less a busy port than a holiday destination – and reminded me a little of Crail in Fife. While there, we realised that we would be leaving the next day without having sampled two Cornish staples – a cream tea or an ice-cream. We were still full from lunch, but managed an ice-cream cone – this gull had its beady eye on us the whole time we were eating it and protested very loudly when we finished without dropping any.

After the ice-cream, we had to turn round and walk back to the car in Penzance. By now, the wind was blowing and it was starting to feel cool – that night, we awoke to a terrible storm. The weather had broken just as we were going home. We had been so lucky.

If you’ve enjoyed reading about Cornwall, I can recommend having a look at the Cornish posts of another travel blogger, abitofculture. As for me – I intend to go back!

8 Comments »

  1. Oh this looks so picturesque. You do take interesting photos and unique ones. Love the greedy gull:) I had one take a piece right out of my hand once and then fly away!

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  2. Anabel, there’s just something about a thriving fishing harbor. I love the energy, the sights, sounds, even the smells!

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  3. Love these pictures! Especially the Egyptian House and the scarecrows. Looking at your photos always makes me wish I would have set up a wordpress blog since it does such a better job of displaying photos than blogger!

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  4. Thoroughly enjoyed these Cornish tales Anabel. It is somewhere I would love to visit, particularly St.Ives of course as it has been such a mecca for artists for years and a lot of their work can be seen in the St. Ives Tate. I have also come to love another Cornish artist called Kurt Jackson, who lives in St. Just. What a wonderful place to live and paint.

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    • Thanks, Adriana. You would love it, I’m sure, and find lots of inspiring seascapes. We were dispointed that the Tate was closed when we were there, but even if we’d done better research beforehand it wouldn’t have made any difference as that was the only week John could take off. Annoying though!

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