West of Tongue
Durness is the most north-westerly village on the British mainland. It’s not far from Tongue as the crow flies – much further for humans who have to follow the coastal road. But who can complain when driving round the beautiful sea loch above? Further along Loch Eriboll, we stopped at the gates of ceramicist Lotte Glob’s studio – though we didn’t have time to go in, it looked intriguing.
At the time, I had no idea I had seen Lotte’s work before until, a couple of weeks ago, I was strolling round Glasgow’s Botanic Gardens and spotted this in the Kibble Palace:
Just outside Durness is the Ceannabeinne Township Trail. After being disappointed to find the Highland Clearance villages east of Tongue in a sorry state of neglect, it was good to find this one well-maintained with comprehensive information boards – and a jaw dropping setting. The villagers here resisted their removal by rioting, but that didn’t change the end result and the land was given over to sheep.
Durness is also home to Smoo Cave, formed by a combination of the sea and a small burn. After visiting the waterfall inside the cave, you can walk up to the point where you can see the hole in the ground through which it enters.
The Village Hall has an interesting garden – though it has seen better days. It was constructed in 2002 in conjunction with the television programme Beechgrove Garden and includes the only permanent memorial to John Lennon in Scotland, which is why we stopped to look. Durness was apparently an area that greatly inspired Lennon – one of his aunts lived there and he spent his childhood holidays between the ages of 9 and 13 in the village. The memorial is the first picture in the gallery below – three standing stones inscribed with lyrics from the song In My Life (There are places I remember) which is said to be about Durness.
As you can see from the skies in some of the pictures, the day was quite overcast. However, there was a spell of sunshine in the afternoon when we walked out to Faraid Head – that deserves a post to itself. Coming soon!
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
Tongue — what a funny name. I can’t imagine living there and having to give that as my address. The blue on the gates is beautiful. And I like the waterfall coming down through into the cave. That would be something to see.
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It is a bit weird! It’s a tongue of land I suppose, but all the same it sounds unattractive – which it isn’t in reality.
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West of Tongues is……cheek?
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Indeed! And in my previous post: East of Tongue is also – cheek 😉
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That view over Loch Eriboll is absolutely stunning! What a beautiful country we’re lucky enough to live in 🙂
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That’s so true!
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Oh wow! I’ve actually been there(ish).
We drove through during a driving tour of Scotland when I was seventeen. We spent the night in this creepy B&B in Tongue. I don’t know what it was about the place but I felt really scared to be alone in my room, so insisted on my baby brother sharing with me so I wasn’t by myself, hehe. And I still slept with the bathroom door open and the light on!
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Ooher! The hotel we were in felt quite safe, thankfully. What a shame that has coloured your memory of a lovely place.
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Spectacular setting for that cave, Anabel. Another of those strolls I could fancy 🙂
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Isn’t it? I have a lovely walk just round the coast from there all ready for you on Monday 🙂
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Bless your cotton socks! At some point today I have to decide where my Monday walk will be and get on and write it! 🙂
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Sure it will be fab, wherever!
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That is a jaw dropping setting for sure and Smoo Cave is gorgeous.
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Thanks!
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That cost and that cave are incredible!
But… what is a sea loch? I’ve always thought ‘loch’ meant ‘lake’ (and I was wrong, apparently)
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No, not wrong! Loch does mean lake, but it can also mean a sea inlet, equivalent to the Norwegian fjord, such as Loch Eriboll.
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Ah, I see! Thanks for the clarification 🙂
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No charge for lessons in Scottish geography! 😉
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Who would think there would be a memorial to John Lennon there…I wouldn’t but glad it is there. I would love to go into that cave and see that magical waterfall-so bewitching. I also love that gateway with the blue balls and the blue glass on the side-really nice
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I know! I had read about his Scottish connections, but had forgotten till we got there. His aunt is buried nearby but we couldn’t find her grave.
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The cave looks amazing!
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IT was! I can’t think of another one I’ve visited where you can watch the waterfall pouring in from above like that.
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I definitely have never seen one like that. Very cool.
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That allotment trophy looks magical.
What a beautiful countryside. I do imagine that it must be quite rough though.
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As in weather? Yes, it can be.
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Yeah. And maybe living up there too?
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Wouldn’t be for me (city girl) but lovely to visit.
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