Between Christmas and New Year we stayed a few nights at the Inn at Lathones, just outside St Andrews, with the intention of walking a few stretches of the Fife Coastal Path. It’s our third time at this historic hotel where we enjoy the cosy atmosphere and good food. This time, we had a room in the Old Forge with access to the deck overlooking the farmland at the back. This would be lovely for sitting out in warmer weather but not in December – however, it did mean we always had something to look at.

Inn at Lathones

Old Forge room

View from deck

View from deck

View from deck

Day 1 – Crail to Fife Ness

On our first full day, we headed for Crail, a traditional fishing village with a 17th century harbour.

Crail

Crail Harbour

Although we’d been to Crail many times before, we had never taken the path to Fife Ness which we now set out to do. Near the edge of town, we passed the 16th century doocot (used to harvest doves for meat), then a children’s playground and a very large caravan park. After this it became more interesting as we entered the Kilminning Coast Wildlife Reserve where seabirds, such as shag, eider, cormorant and guillemot can be seen.

Crail doocot

Crail doocot

Coastal path near Crail

Some colourful cottages appeared above us, then we rounded a corner to the lighthouse at Fife Ness – a squat building rather than the usual attractive white tower.

Colourful cottages near Crail

Lighthouse at Fife Ness

Fife Ness is the most easterly corner of Fife. Its harbour dates from the sixteenth century and was used for fishing until the end of the eighteenth. It was then converted into a sea beacon construction yard, hence the circular grooves in the stone, and lightships were also built here to guide shipping before the lighthouse was constructed in 1975.

Harbour at Fife Ness

Harbour at Fife Ness

The next part of the path skirted a golf course, and then we came to Constantine’s Cave. Local legend has it that King Constantine I (one of the early Pictish Kings) was killed in this cave following a battle with the Danes in 874.

Constantine’s Cave

Constantine’s Cave

At this point we decided we had gone far enough and retraced our steps back along the coastal path.

Coastal path near Crail

Coastal path near Crail

North Berwick Law and the Bass Rock were just visible across the Firth of Forth.

North Berwick Law

Bass Rock

In Crail, we took time to admire the buildings before heading back to the hotel.

Building detail

Marine B&B

Building detail

Crail

Anabel at Crail

We were particularly impressed with Penman the butcher’s Christmas window!

Penman’s Christmas window

Penman’s Christmas window

Day 2 – St Andrews and Pittenweem

The following day, we didn’t do so much walking. John’s cousin, Lindy, lives in Anstruther and they kindly asked us to lunch which we thoroughly enjoyed. Beforehand, we had a quick stroll around St Andrews.

St Andrews

St Andrews

Afterwards, we visited Pittenweem, Fife’s only working fishing harbour, and the site of a cave used by St Fillan in the 7th century. The light was already starting to fade when we got to the harbour.

Pittenweem Harbour

Pittenweem Harbour

It gave the buildings a pleasing glow.

Pittenweem

Pittenweem

We saw several decorated bicycles – but only one decorated bench.

Pittenweem

Pittenweem

As we climbed away from the sea, it got darker and darker.

Pittenweem

Pittenweem

Pittenweem

By the time we walked back down past the cave it was very dark indeed.

Pittenweem

St Fillan’s Cave

St Fillan’s Cave

St Fillan’s Cave

And the harbour looked even more beautiful with the lights shimmering in the sea.

Pittenweem Harbour

Pittenweem Harbour

Day 3 – Dysart to West Wemyss

On our last day, we decided to stop in Dysart, a Royal Burgh dating from the 7th century, to walk the coastal path to West Wemyss. The old Harbourmaster’s House, on the deliciously named Hot Pot Wynd, now houses the Coastal Centre Exhibition and the Harbour Bistro. Great – a coffee before we started. Wrong! Despite the notice outside, and having looked at the website before we left, the place was closed. This was 31st December so not a public holiday. I know a lot of places close for the whole period between Christmas and New Year but some information would be nice. Shame on you Fife Coast and Countryside Trust!

Harbourmaster’s House

Opening times

Undaunted, we spent some time wandering round the harbour. Donald Urquhart’s Sea Beams represent the colours of the sea at different times and in different lights.

Dysart Harbour

Dysart Harbour

Sea Beams by Donald Urquhart

The start of the walk took us along the shore past the 13th century St Serf’s Tower and the restored Pan Ha’ red tiled cottages, then up Hie Gait.

St Serf’s Tower and Pan Ha’ Cottages

Old lintel

Old lintel

Hie Gait

From Dysart the path climbs to the Frances Colliery memorial and preserved winding gear, testament to the former importance of the coal industry in the area. The colliery, with so many others, closed in the 1980s.

Frances Colliery memorial

Frances Colliery winding gear

From Blair Point you can look down on West Wemyss.

West Wemyss

West Wemyss

From here, the path takes you past a walled chapel garden, the private burial ground of the Wemyss family, and some pretty mosaics.

Walled chapel garden

Walled chapel garden

Walled chapel garden

Mosaics

Mosaics

West Wemyss originated as a planned town for workers on the Wemyss estate. At one time, it was one of the most important ports in Fife, trading in coal and salt with the Continent. It is certainly picturesque, but was almost deserted and once again everything was closed despite the local pub being listed on the coastal path information boards as a “Welcome Port”. We’d had a large hotel breakfast, so there was no danger of starving, but the wind was biting and somewhere to warm up would have been nice.

West Wemyss

West Wemyss

West Wemyss

West Wemyss

There was nothing for it but to turn round and head back to Dysart where The Man i’ the Rock was able to serve us a late lunch. After a quick look around it was back in the car and home to Glasgow for New Year.

Dysart Tollbooth

St Serf’s

St Serf’s

I love this part of the coast: beautiful views, historic towns and villages with some industrial history thrown in. We’ll be back. In the meantime, I’m linking up to Jo’s Monday Walks. She’s in another of my favourite places this week, the Yorkshire Dales, and her cyber friends are walking all over the world. Please take a look!