Hebridean Hop 19: Tangasdale
Wednesday 15th August 2018
Should we go out to the castle today? Hmm, no – the weather was too dreich again. Instead, we headed out of Castlebay for a short walk. Starting at Loch Tangasdale, we first passed MacLeod’s Tower, built in 1430 by the son of Marion of the Heads. She was the widow of the chief of Clan MacNeil and had her two stepsons beheaded so that her own son would inherit.
Further on, in a small glen, are the ruins of an old settlement inhabited by another MacNeil, Roderick the Dove, in the 18th century. His name suggests he was much nicer than Marion!
As the path climbed, we could see down to Halaman Bay at the side of which perches the Isle of Barra Hotel – this is where we stayed during our 1990s trips to Barra.
The climb to Dun Ban, the 2000 year old remains of a fortified broch, was rugged but worth it. I liked the way the stones had been taken over by nature.
On our return, we dropped down onto the beach at Halaman – probably a mistake! As the rain and the wind built up we got soaked through and the sand whipped into our faces. As we struggled to stay upright on two feet, hopping on one leg to don the waterproof trousers wasn’t an option. It was still beautiful though, and I don’t think you can tell from the pictures how bad the weather was. (As a bonus, I’ve included a picture of me on the same beach on a better day in 1992).
We have rarely been so pleased to reach the car. When we got back to the hotel, we just had time for a quick change of clothes before we caught last orders for lunch.
A relaxing afternoon with a book followed. Amazingly, the sun came out later and it was a lovely bright evening. We watched the ferry dock from our room and managed to bag a window seat at dinner. Not a bad day overall, despite the weather doing its worst – slàinte!
Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk.
You weren’t kidding when you said the weather deteriorated on your trip! It’s very variable, isn’t it?
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Yes! As they say of a Scottish summer: four seasons in one day.
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The plant life covering the rocks is so colourful, and makes the rocks look quite otherworldly.
Jude
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That’s what I thought! I was busy snapping rocks while John was on view duty.
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The beach is amazing. Too bad the water is too cold for swimming… (Suzanne)
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Oh my goodness, swimming in it doesn’t bear thinking about!
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I would have been rugged up indoors with a book all day! Admire your perseverance and the photos are stunning despite the weather 🙂
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If it’s not raining when we leave, I’ll persevere!
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Marion sounds like she was a scary lady. I’d prefer to meet Roderick the Dove.
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Me too!
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Dreich? I like that…
Although it sounds bitter as can be… the landscapes are certainly beautiful especially that Halaman Bay…. Gorgeous.
Peta
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Thanks Peta. Dreich is an evocative word!
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Anabel – I think I need to review your Scottish terms posts: ‘dreich’ – it certainly sounds exactly like the weather you describe. But the day ended up with its own reward, didn’t it? Cheers – Susan
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It’s a great word which I often find myself needing! And, yes, the glorious evening was a definite reward.
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