Eglinton: a castle, a tournament and a country park

Eglinton Tournament, 1839, by James Henry Nixon. Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

I had never heard of the Eglinton Tournament until I watched an episode of Scottish Television’s People’s History Show which billed it as Scotland’s most expensive and worst party. I was intrigued!

When Queen Victoria came to the throne, the country was in dire economic straits and she was given a scaled-down coronation ceremony which was ridiculed as ‘The Penny Coronation’. One of the fiercest critics was Archibald, 13th Earl of Eglinton, who decided to throw his own party over three days in August 1839 in the form of a grand medieval tournament on his Ayrshire estate. He invited a couple of thousand of his rich mates and thought he might let in a few thousand of the lower classes too. However, ticketing procedures and crowd control were woeful and some estimates suggest that in the end over 100,000 people attended the Tournament. Local transport and accommodation were overwhelmed, and the knights themselves created gridlock on the estate with the opening parade taking three hours longer than expected. And, of course, you can’t rely on the Scottish summer weather – the heavens opened on the first day and flooding meant that the entire audience, apart from Eglinton’s personal guests, was stranded without transportation. They had to walk miles through the rain and the mud to nearby villages, where only a few people found any food, drink, accommodation or transport. Even the personal guests missed out on the medieval banquet and ball that evening because banqueting tents had also been flooded. The middle day of the Tournament was cancelled, but the third day went ahead as planned with the overall winner judged to be – guess who? – Lord Eglinton himself.

After learning this story I wanted to see Eglinton myself, so on a sunny August Sunday, almost 180 years to the day since the Tournament, we set off – it’s less than an hour’s drive from home. There isn’t much left of Eglinton Castle itself, and it was difficult to get pictures of what there was because of all the picknicking families and children joyously leaping off the ruins.

You can see below what it looked like in its heyday before the Eglintons lost all their money and abandoned it. In 1925 the roof was removed so that the walls could be used for target practice by the military, and most of the rest was pulled down in 1973.

Eglinton Castle, 1906. Public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

There are several other interesting structures in the park. The ornamental Tournament Bridge, which crosses Lugton Water a short walk from the castle, might seem to be a remnant of the events of 1839, but actually dates from 1845. It has recently been beautifully restored.

The old stable block has been converted into a café, and the gardens and grounds of the estate surrounding it are very attractive. Interesting objects include some colourful benches and a double headless statue. I have no idea who they are or where their heads have gone, in case you are minded to ask!

The garden also contains war memorial benches and a cairn commemorating those who died in the 9/11 attacks.

There are several trails round the park, a mixture of woodland …

… and open countryside. We wondered about these stones on top of Cairnmount Hill. They were obviously not ancient standing stones, but we thought they might be a folly placed there by one of the Earls. Googling them later, I found that they are much more recent than that. An opencast mine was established nearby in 1983, and when extraction finished in 1986 it was filled in and these large boulders discovered in the process were erected on top of the restored hill. The stones effectively mark the closing of the last coal-mine on the land attached to Eglinton Castle after a period of at least 400 years of continuous production.

Finally, a small loch attracted walkers, such as ourselves, as well as those who just wanted a peaceful spot to read.

We enjoyed our day out at Eglinton: the trail we followed was pleasant, if not spectacular, and fairly quiet once we got away from the café and the picnickers at the castle.  I think the park caters mostly for that audience and not so much for those interested in its history – a few more information boards would have been helpful: the only one I can recall was at the Tournament Bridge. I’m pleased to have seen the site of the Tournament, and certainly recommend the park to anyone who happens to be in the area, but for me it is one to file away as a once-only visit – I don’t feel a strong need to go back.

63 thoughts on “Eglinton: a castle, a tournament and a country park

  1. Dr Sock October 25, 2019 / 17:11

    I’m curious about the meaning of the inscription on the bottom of the double headless statue.

    Jude

    Like

    • Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter October 25, 2019 / 21:42

      Well, as luck would have it, an earlier commenter was driven to do what I hadn’t and look it up! See below.

      “I had to look up that quote on the headless statue “ye maunna tramp on the Scotch thistle laddie” although it does actually say thristle (I had to look twice). It is apparently a statue of an old man, and a young boy who has stood on a thistle, the old man is trying to take the thistle out of the boys foot. Maunna = musn’t as you will well know 🙂

      The statue was commissioned around 1888 by the Kelvingrove International exhibition by Paisley soap manufacturer Isdale and McCallum to advertise their Thistle soap. The statue sat on their factory’s roof until about 1971 when the building was demolished and it was then brought to Irvine by an Ayrshire business man. It was later taken to Eglinton Park where it now sits.

      Apparently the heads and leg were damaged by vandalism!”

      Like

  2. wanderessence1025 October 10, 2019 / 14:33

    What a story about the Eglinton Tournament; it doesn’t seem surprising that after that, the Eglintons lost all their money and had their castle dismembered! I’m never crazy about places that cater to picnicking families; I guess that’s because all my kids are now grown and I’m happy to be past that time in my life! Looks like a lovely day out though. 🙂

    Like

    • Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter October 10, 2019 / 15:47

      No, they don’t sound all that careful with their money! I know what you mean about the picnicking, but we usually find you don’t have to stray too far from the carpark to lose most people. Most of the park was really quiet.

      Like

  3. Jenny October 2, 2019 / 00:26

    It’s surprising what we sometimes find close to home.

    Like

  4. notesoflifeuk September 29, 2019 / 19:01

    This looks like a lovely place to visit, although I’ve never heard of it before. I must say it’s shocking how we used to treat some of our old buildings!

    Like

  5. londonlifewithliz September 29, 2019 / 18:14

    I’d never heard of the Eglinton Tournament, either: what a a fascinating tale. Your photos of Eglinton are wonderful: it looks as though you had far better weather for your visit than did poor old Archibald for his Tournament!

    Like

    • Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter September 29, 2019 / 19:00

      We certainly did! Archibald would have been most envious of our weather – although jousting in heavy armour in that temperature might have been uncomfortable.

      Liked by 1 person

Leave a Reply to notesoflifeuk Cancel reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.