Burnmouth to Eyemouth

Lobster fisherman heading out

We visited Eyemouth several times during our stay in Lower Burnmouth last summer – it’s a pretty little town in itself, but is also the nearest place to buy provisions. One morning, we set out to walk there (and back) on the Berwickshire Coastal Path. As we left, the local lobster fisherman was heading out of the harbour.

The path led us steeply out of Lower Burnmouth towards the clifftops. As we went, we could see our little cottage, The Old Lobster House, retreat further into the distance below us. It’s the little white building opposite the row of coloured houses.

The path reached the road at the upper part of Burnmouth. As the old sign tells us, it’s 6 miles to Berwick and 52 to Edinburgh. The pub is The First and Last – the first or last in Scotland, depending on your direction of travel.

I liked this house’s quirky gate and name sign.

Before moving on, we stopped for a while to read an information board telling us how Burnmouth used to be a hotbed of smuggling in the 18th century. One notorious family was the Lyalls who organised a raid on the Customs Warehouse in Eyemouth in 1780. John Lyall later moved to Sussex where he became a respected resident, operating ships out of London. His five sons showed how quickly and effectively the family distanced itself from its criminal past: they included a Conservative MP and a Dean of Canterbury. Clearly a talented family on whichever side of the law they operated.

The path then led us down the side of the Village Hall and back on to the cliffs. Burnmouth Harbour and our little house were still in view!

The clifftops were lined with fields of crops, mainly barley, and wildflowers.

We wondered what this brown crop was, and only identified it later. Had we been earlier in the year, these fields would have been bright yellow – it’s oilseed rape. 

This was the first, but not the last, day we noticed an abundance of painted lady butterflies. Apparently, last summer was a once in a decade mass emergence when weather conditions and food sources provided ideal conditions for the species to thrive.

Looking out to sea, we admired the folds in the rocks. Geology writ large.

Then Eyemouth came into view, and we were almost there.

After spending the afternoon in Eyemouth we had to walk back. Remember The First and Last in Burnmouth? We naturally stopped for a beer and some good pub grub. I liked the way it was decorated with old advertising boards.

Then it was down the hill again, home to The Old Lobster House. Next time, I’ll show you round Eyemouth itself.

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walks.

58 thoughts on “Burnmouth to Eyemouth

  1. Erica/Erika May 14, 2020 / 12:31

    Anabel, You remind me how lobster is available from Scotland harbours. On our West Coast, we have wonderful, fresh crab. No lobster. You likely know lobsters are found on the East Coast of Canada. Our last fresh lobster was in P.E.I. A beautiful area for a walk. Great photos! You and your husband definitely wear off the pub food and beer.🙂

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  2. Jessica (Diverting Journeys) May 13, 2020 / 15:23

    My walk would have ended real quick when I noticed the abundance of butterflies! I know it’s a ridiculous phobia to have, but they just really freak me out. I would have been running away whilst waving my arms in the air so they didn’t come near me. Just leave me in the pub with the signs and a bowl of cheesy chips!

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  3. Joanne Sisco May 13, 2020 / 12:17

    The photos of the coastline cliffs call to me. This is what I think of when I consider hiking in Scotland. So breathtaking!

    Like

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