Border Break 5: monumental walks
Peniel Heugh
After the riverside walks in my last Border’s post, this time I am taking you on some short walks all of which feature something monumental. The first is the small hill of Peniel Heugh, near Ancrum, which is topped by a monument to the Battle of Waterloo (1815) in which many Borders men fought as part of the Scots Greys. It was commissioned by William Kerr, 6th Marquess of Lothian, and completed in 1824. On the way up, there were good views of Monteviot House and the surrounding countryside.
The walk started and finished at the Harestanes Visitor Centre. On our return we were delighted to see this old Ford (with attendant old man and old dog).
Leaderfoot Viaduct and Trimontium
Leaderfoot is the site of a Roman Fort, Trimontium (Three Hills, i.e. the Eildon Hills), and it is believed that the Roman Road heading north from York crossed the Tweed at this spot. There is no sign of the Roman bridge today, but you can see three bridges from different eras, one rail and two road. The 9000 foot long Leaderfoot Viaduct was built between 1862 and 1865 for the Berwickshire railway, and carried passenger trains until 1948 and freight until 1965. It’s a thing of beauty and by far my favourite of the three. There is no public access, unfortunately – I’d love to see the view from up there.
The two road bridges are Drygrange Old Bridge, built 1779-80 and its ugly modern replacement, built in 1971-73 to carry the A68. You can walk on the old bridge, and I was intrigued to find it still had a dilapidated post box set into its parapet. In some of the shots below you can see all three bridges at once.
From the viaduct, we went on a circular walk skirting the edges of the Roman fort, now agricultural land, finishing by re-approaching the bridges from above.
Monteith Douglas Mausoleum
It’s a short walk up a farm track from the A68 near St Boswells to the Monteath Douglas Mausoleum, a grand Victorian monument recently restored by a group of local volunteers. It is possible to see inside by prior arrangement, but our visit was a last minute decision so we contented ourselves with walking round the outside.
The monument was constructed for General Sir Thomas Monteath Douglas (1788 – 1868) and, unusually, was intended for himself alone. He wanted it to be “locked for all time” but despite being guarded by two life-sized stone lions, one awake and one asleep, by the early 20th century it had been broken into. The tomb is empty and the whereabouts of Monteath Douglas’s remains is not known. Blame the sleeping lion!
The views from the mausoleum take in the sites of the previous two walks with Peniel Heugh visible to the south (you can just about make out the monument on the horizon), while to the north are the triple peaks of the Eildon Hills, after which Trimontium was named.
Smailholm Tower
The 15th century Smailholm Tower is a peel tower, a type of fortified house common on both sides of the Scottish/English border at a time when attacks by cross-border raiders were common. It was built by the Pringles, a leading Border family, and at one time there would have been a flourishing settlement around it, but only the tower remains today. In the 17th century it was sold to the Scotts and Sir Walter Scott spent time here as a boy. Today it is cared for by Historic Scotland.
We followed a circular route from the village of Smailholm to the Tower and back. My walking book notes that there are wonderful views, but it was a wet and miserable afternoon so I assume we didn’t see them because the only photographs I have are of the church in the village and the Tower itself.
This is the last in my series of posts about our week in the Scottish Borders in June 2021. It’s certainly an area we would like to explore more in the future.
Linked to Jo’s Monday Walks.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
Hi Anabel – I know I’d love to go back to that area and spend a lot more time ‘up there’ …
excellent photos and discourse – cheers Hilary
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Thanks Hilary. The area would definitely repay another visit.
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The tower photo looks amazing. I love looking at viaducts and the builders must have had such heads for heights!
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They must have! I love this viaduct, it is so elegant.
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🙂
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Amazed at the Peil tower. I thought the raids were all one way – viscious Scots attacking the defenceless English 😂😂😂
It’s a nice area the Borders – like you I’d like to explore more. I think it’s safe these days 😉
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Just don’t rustle any cattle when you come, and you should be fine!
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I’m a bridge man too and yes the viaduct is a thing of beauty to our modern eyes but I’ll bet locals grumbled about it when built. Equally the 70s road bridge will develop its supporters as time passes with aficionados describing its clean lines and functionality. But you’re right. For now it’s an excresance.
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Hmm, not convinced about the 70s one!
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I remember a talk from English Heritage years back, on how the determine listing a building or structure. A basic rule of thumb is it must be 50 years old because otherwise Joe Public will complain because everyone basically hates buildings that are less than 50 years old. I think maybe there’s a 100 year rule for brutalist…
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By which time it might well have collapsed!
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Here’s wondering!
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It looks like an area with plenty to see and plenty of walks to find things! Love those lions at the Monteith Monument and the old postbox. 🙂
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Certainly plenty to see. The poor little postbox looked quite forlorn with its badly faded paint!
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I would so love to walk through that beautiful scenery! I can certainly see why you’d like to visit the top of the viaduct, but a tumble off of that would be deadly.
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Yes, I’d love to get up there. It seems to have a good fence already, but they might have to make it higher if kids were going up.
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I’ve never seen a viaduct in real life but often on TV documentaries. They must be spectacular, and the views from up top would be excellent.
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Yes, it’s a shame you can’t get up there. Some old railway lines have been turned into walking trails, but not there.
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Don’t think I’ve been up to the first tower. The viaduct is impressive. Used to read a lot of books by Nigel Tranter from the local library who wrote numerous history novels about the Borders and East Coast and was my original inspiration to explore all these areas decades ago, which back then I knew very little about. I’,m working my way through Philippa Gregory’s historical novels now, also very well written, and with the added bonus of being easily obtained in most charity shops.
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I’ve not read any Tranter, but I have read some of Gregory’s books and enjoyed them. I’d never heard of Penniel before we went there but, as is the way of things, I keep seeing references to it now!
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Some good views there and I love those lions – they would look great in my garden 🙂
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Wow – must be a big garden! 😉
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Not that big – i just have big ideas! 🙂 🙂
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😄
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While I know much of Northumberland well, I haven’t seen much of the Borders – clearly something I should rectify!
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Definitely, Sarah! Worth a visit – or several.
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