Cornish Chronicles: Penzance to Mousehole

On our last afternoon, we took a different sort of coastal walk. No cliff-top paths and deserted coves this time – the walk from Penzance to Mousehole (say it mowzel) is paved all the way. We arrived in Penzance in time for lunch (the Assay House is very good), then had a quick look around before setting off along the promenade. Chapel Street is lined with Georgian buildings, including the weird-looking Egyptian House and the Union Hotel, the first place to receive news of Nelson’s death after the Battle of Trafalgar. Morrab Gardens are also worth a stroll.

A couple of miles along the prom is Newlyn, Britain’s busiest working fishing port. The statue commemorates more than twenty local men who have died fishing since 1980. On a lighter note, we liked the creative approach to hanging baskets!

After leaving Newlyn we passed some quirky scarecrows before coming to another sad memorial at the old Penlee Lifeboat Station. in 1981, the lifeboat Solomon Browne went from here in heavy seas to try to rescue the Union Star which was being driven onto rocks. Both ships were lost with all hands.

Mousehole is a much more picturesque harbour – less a busy port than a holiday destination – and reminded me a little of Crail in Fife. While there, we realised that we would be leaving the next day without having sampled two Cornish staples – a cream tea or an ice-cream. We were still full from lunch, but managed an ice-cream cone – this gull had its beady eye on us the whole time we were eating it and protested very loudly when we finished without dropping any.

After the ice-cream, we had to turn round and walk back to the car in Penzance. By now, the wind was blowing and it was starting to feel cool – that night, we awoke to a terrible storm. The weather had broken just as we were going home. We had been so lucky.

If you’ve enjoyed reading about Cornwall, I can recommend having a look at the Cornish posts of another travel blogger, abitofculture. As for me – I intend to go back!