Hampstead and Camden Market

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Morning coffee at Burgh House

I know not the two most obvious places to put together! On the Saturday of our trip to London in November 2022 we were meeting Jane and Jeff, John’s sister and brother-in-law, for lunch at a restaurant on Finchley Road. Looking for somewhere to stroll in the morning, a glance at our guidebook suggested that its Hampstead walk would end sufficiently close to where we wanted to be. After lunch Jane suggested getting a train to Camden Market, so that’s how our day worked out.

Hampstead is a very desirable area of London, full of pretty streets with a village feel, which has had many famous residents over the years, some of whom we would encounter on our walk. We came out of the tube close to this attractive clock tower, and headed south down Heath Street to Church Row where we “met” the first of these former residents in the graveyard of St John’s Church. The artist John Constable is here, Elizabeth Austen, a cousin and later sister-in-law of writer Jane Austen, and John Harrison, inventor of the time-keeper for ascertaining longitude at sea. The church  itself had rather interestingly squint doors, though the couple resting on a bench after what looks like a shopping trip did not move while we were there and possibly detract from the view!

St John’s Hampstead
Squinty door
John Constable
John Constable
Elizabeth Austen
Elizabeth Austen
John Harrison
John Harrison

From St John’s we passed another church, St Mary’s; the former home of Robert Louis Stevenson of Treasure Island fame; a rather splendid set of gates leading to the gardens of Fenton House; and an attractive-looking house undergoing renovation.

St Mary’s Church, Hampstead
RL Stevenson’s home
RL Stevenson plaque
Gates to Fenton House
Hampstead renovations

The next famous resident we encountered was George du Maurier, author of Trilby and grandfather of the, to me, much more famous Daphne du Maurier who wrote Rebecca, a book I have read several times and always come to a different conclusion. And, no arguments, the definitive screen version is Hitchcock’s film of 1940 starring Laurence Olivier and Joan Fontaine.

George du Maurier’s house
George du Maurier’s plaque

The du Mauriers also featured in historic posters at Burgh House, home of the local history museum. The museum wasn’t open but the café with its very nice garden was. We would not be sitting outside with our coffee this November!

Burgh House
Poster
Poster
Coffee in the garden

Our next destination was Keats Grove with another St John’s on the corner and, you’ve guessed it, a former home of the poet John Keats. He lived here from December 1818 until he left for Rome in August 1820 where he died a year later, aged only 25. Keats House is now a museum with a public library next door.

St John’s Downshire Hill
St John’s Downshire Hill
Keats Grove
Keats House
Keats Grove Library

Our guidebook suggested walking through Hampstead Heath to Kenwood House, but we didn’t have time for this as we had a deadline – lunch! On the way, we met John Constable again and a rather splendid looking former baths and wash house – or a steamie as it would be termed in Glasgow.

John Constable’s plaque
A steamie!

After lunch with Jane and Jeff we all headed for Camden Market. Unsurprisingly, this turned out to be very busy so after a quick walk round we looked for a pub and had a couple of beers before going our separate ways.

Camden Market
Camden Market
Camden Market
Ceiling detail
Decorative railings
Amy Winehouse artwork
Umbrellas on the ceiling

And here ends my London saga for the time being. There are a few bits and pieces from this visit which don’t warrant their own post and don’t fit anywhere else. However, we were in London again in May 2023 so once I have written that up I can mop up the odds and ends from both trips. Next on the blogging agenda is a trip to the Scottish Borders.

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59 Comments »

  3. Hi Anabel – love the brollies in Camden Market … interesting seeing the churches, and the houses in the famous area … I look forward to more – I alway enjoy your tours – cheers Hilary

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  4. We rather like Hampstead – we’ve often stayed there as it’s just a few stops up the Northern Line from Euston and it’s a good base to access Central London via the tube and buses.
    I particularly like the Modernist architecture including the Goldfinger House and the Isokon building.
    We’ve never been to Camden Market, though.

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      • I agree – I’ve never particularly wanted to go to the market, although I know it’s very popular
        If you’re in Hampstead again the Goldfinger house is recommended – It’s a National Trust property so you can look inside – but watch out for James Bond (there is a connection!)

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  7. You’re very brave spending all that time unchaperoned in north London. I hope you had all the usual jabs to protect you against egowarts and smugitis. It does have some grand buildings, does Hampstead.

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  10. What a wonderful walk, market and pub lunch. Your sighting of Eliza (Hancock/Capot) Austen’s gravestone was very cool. Eliza is believed to have greatly influenced Jane’s writing, particularly in Jane’s creation of some of her pivotal female characters. ❤

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  12. I agree about the film. This looks like a lovely part of London and hope to visit one day. I am one who likes graveyards and reading headstones, just like my dad.

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  13. You certainly get around. It’s been decades since I explored London and Hampstead Heath but I can’t imagine that part of the city has changed much at all. I loved exploring all the various parks in London rather than the more obvious city centre tourist hot spots. Bob. BSS.

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  14. Hampstead is one of my favourite parts of London. I used to spend a lot of time there and up on the heath when I lived in London. There are so many beautiful and intriguing buildings, it’s a great place for a random stroll.

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  18. Hampstead is one of London’s most beautiful neighbourhoods, not because it has movie star looks—although plenty of movie stars live here—but because of its subtle charm. There are no major landmarks here, no big tourist attractions. It’s just a quiet local corner of the city that happens to be lovely despite its lack of showing off. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

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  20. Hampstead looks lovely, I need to try and see more of London in the next few months. The wash house made me smile, the worst thing you could hear when I was growing up was that you’d be ‘the talk of the wash hoose’. Meant you’d something really scandalous!

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  21. You seem to have followed a walk I’ve also done, with a friend who loves Hampstead (as do I!) Burgh House is great for a coffee and there are so many lovely houses, but my favourite sight there is Keats House. I’m guessing you didn’t have time to go in, but it’s worth doing in the future if you get the chance.

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  22. Have you ever been to Highgate Cemetery? Another great venue in that part of the world. I love Hampstead Heath. I used to swim in the ponds there. It is fabulous in winter and provides stunning views of London. I have to confess that despite living in Kentish Town, I never properly explored Hampstead Village. Too busy, I suppose. I did however frequent the charity shops in West Hampstead – a better class of cast-off there!

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  23. Camden Market looks very unusual being set on a canal? but I would just hate all those crowds. I like the decorative railings and the autumn shot of Burgh House is beautiful but my favourite is the one of those lovely Fenton House gates 🙂

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  24. Another great day’s gallivanting! I have visited Hampstead once, as you say it has rather a village feel. And Camden market in the 80s and early 90s- always busy

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  25. Used to live on Fitzjohn’s Avenue in Hampstead and St Mary’s was my local parish! No problem for parents keeping kids entertained during mass as often one of the readers was David Tennant of Doctor Who 🙂
    Hampstead is a lovely part of the world although absolutely not reflective of London life in any way 🙂 A few stops down on the tube to Camden and you were in a different world.

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  26. Somehow, I’ve never explored Hampstead, or even been there. It’s probably above my station in life – so thanks for this tour. Camden Market is a different matter. It seems everyone gets there at least once.

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