Banff and the Bow Valley

69 Comments
John is not impressed by tonight’s accommodation

On our previous visit to the Canadian Rockies, ten years ago, our first stop was in Banff which we remembered as being too busy to be really pleasurable. We decided to try somewhere different this time, but we did pop in to Banff to visit the Cave and Basin National Historic Site.

Canada’s National Park System was effectively born at these hot springs. Known to aboriginal peoples for millennia, they were “discovered” by three railway workers in 1883. So many people rushed in to try to make money out of the springs that, to avert an environmental crisis, the government stepped in to create a reserve. Today, what was the bathing pool is decked and, when we were there, was set up to replicate a camp at the time of the building of the Canadian Pacific Railway.

Cave
Basin
Deck

There were boardwalks to follow (see header image which mocks up the entrance to the first hotel) and we also hiked the Marsh Loop, a circular trail to the Bow River, where we met this impressive stag.

Stag on the Marsh Loop
Stag on the Marsh Loop

Planning a route in the Rockies isn’t difficult – there isn’t much choice other than East-West on the Trans-Canada Highway and North-South on the Icefields Parkway. The Trans-Canada skirts Banff which means we passed its exits several times. The first day we planned to visit the Cave and Basin, the queues to get off the highway were so long that we kept going east, took a detour onto the Bow Valley Parkway and stopped at Johnston Canyon with its multiple waterfalls.

Johnston Canyon
Johnston Canyon
Johnston Canyon
Johnston Canyon

To the east of Banff, we liked the small town of Canmore. Imagine having this view at the end of your street!

Canmore
Canmore

In Canmore, we bought these two hiking books which served us well over the next three weeks. Volume 1 included a loop walk in Bow Valley Provincial Park, an amalgamation of six interpretive trails which took us through moraines, riversides, lakeshores and forest paths. We couldn’t believe how quiet it was – we hardly saw any other hikers and ate our lunch alone in an enormous picnic area.

Middle Lake
Moraine Trail
Bow River Trail
Many Springs Trail
Elk Flats Trail

Coming up in the next instalment: Kananaskis, which was a lot busier.

Alberta, Canada , ,

69 Comments »

  3. I love hikes when we get a big chunk of trail to ourselves. It is so peaceful. I love your photos of the Rockies. This area is impressive every single time that I see it (whether in real life or in photos). I look forward to your upcoming post on Kananaskis!

    Like

    • Yes, the history often seems very “new” to us – still interesting, but we tend to keep the museums for a rainy day when we can’t get out into the landscape and that doesn’t often happen.

      Like

  6. Of every place that I have traveled, nothing beats the Canadian Rockies for jaw-dropping landscapes. Your magnificent pictures of Banff have happily taken my heart back to a place I adore.

    Like

  7. Hi Anabel – it’s an amazing part of the world and I’d love to go back one day. Did you note that Canmore means ‘big head’ in Gaelic?! I was there in July too – but it snowed!! Love the photos and I’d love to drive over the Rockies – my Ma and I went on the train – delightful … but I’d likes a slightly slower journey with some stops … cheers Hilary

    Like

  8. I have been fortunate to visit Banff many times, and I love it. The streets of Banff certainly can get busy at the height of tourist season, but, as you noted, as soon as you hike a few hundred meters from the trail heads, there are not many people. I am glad you are enjoying your visit to western Canada.

    Jude

    Like

  9. Beautiful views and photos! That waterfall in Johnston canyon is incredible and so is the blue sky! It was probably extra busy since the national parks in Canada are free to enter this year, for their 150th anniversary. I”m happy to read that the provincial park was much quieter and – by the looks of it – quite stunning as well.

    Like

  10. It brought back many happy memories. I was there about 1965 I think, with my husband, and we had a hire car which was a dream to drive – our first experience of an all-electronic car, windows opening with a button press, wipers with 4 speeds. What country cousins we were in those days. But, we splashed out on one night at Banff Springs Hotel which was an experience although they undercharged us by $1 and a bill for this followed us back to the UK – sent 3 times because we couldn’t believe they were serious. Your photographs are really great and a pleasure to see.

    Like

    • Really?! It must have cost them far more than that to collect it. We looked at the Chateau at Lake Louise thinking to splash out for a couple of nights and I thought the prices were ridiculous. No way would I pay them, birthday treat or not.

      Like

  12. The first picture with John outside the “Hotel” made me laugh! The cave and basin look neat, and that stag is amusingly surly looking. Even though I noticed you said he was laid back in one of the comments, I still wouldn’t get in his way!

    Like

    • I was quite pleased with my wit (?) there, so laughing is the correct response! No I wouldn’t get in the big guy’s way either – though he appeared totally unconcerned at our presence, I wouldn’t want to push it.

      Liked by 1 person

  14. I did some work in Canmore but had forgotten all about it. Thanks for reminding me that it’s such a pretty little town. And I love the water shots, Anabel. Beautiful.

    Like

  16. Anabel what wonderful holiday photos, the first photo of your husband was a fun one. A beautiful part of Canada and it looks like you enjoyed the best parts!

    Suz

    Like

  19. Banff was on our list of places to visit when we were exploring the Pacific Northwest and western Canada on our most recent trip. Because of the expected crowds, though, we changed our plans. It worked out fortunately because we were able to avoid the fires and smoke for the most part. One of these days, I hope we can make it to that area. Beautiful pictures.

    Like

  22. This is so beautiful and places I have yet to visit in my own homeland. I love the trail I see with the green railing to see the waterfalls and just the beauty. You are so lucky to get a great shot of this stag.

    Like

    • Yes, I think we made a good call to stay elsewhere and just drop into Banff. But yet – go somewhere even a little off the beaten track, or venture more than a few hundred yards from the car park, and you lose most people as at Bow Valley.

      Liked by 1 person

  25. I love your opening picture and the caption, “John is not impressed by today’s accommodation.” Very cute. 🙂 I went to Banff years ago, when I was very young, but I would love to go back. It’s too bad to hear that it’s overcrowded now. What time of year was it, just this past summer? I love your photos of Johnston Canyon and the town of Canmore. Your hikes on the various trails using those guidebooks look wonderful. I would love to see more pictures of the hikes. I’m so envious of all your travels. I just bought a couple of books about Southwest USA that I want to use to plan a trip next spring. It’s been a while since I’ve explored out west. 🙂

    Like

    • It took ages to get that picture! Other people would keep walking in. This was in July – I suspect everywhere is much busier this year because it’s Canada’s 150th and the national parks are all free. More hikes coming up (and I kind of think your travels are a bit more extensive than mine, oh woman just back from Japan!)

      Liked by 1 person

      • It’s so frustrating when people keep walking past while you’re trying to take a picture. There were so many people everywhere in Japan, I rarely could get pictures without people in them. No matter; you finally got it, and it’s very cute. 🙂 As for my travels, though I loved Japan, I saw it in bits and pieces, in between grueling work weeks, so it didn’t quite feel like a holiday. Our upcoming trip to Budapest, Vienna and Prague hopefully will feel more holiday-ish. 🙂 Can’t wait to see the rest of your hikes!

        Like