A walk round Kerrera

Remember this view from last time? Our window in Oban looked out on the island of Kerrera which we were determined to explore. A small passenger ferry runs from Gallanach, a couple of miles along the coast from Oban. Unless you live on Kerrera (current population about 35) no vehicles are allowed.

There are two possible walks suggested, the southern loop taking in Gylen Castle (and nearby tea garden – vital!) or a linear walk to the northern tip where there is a monument to  David Hutcheson, one of the founders of the Caledonian MacBrayne Ferry service. We chose the 11km loop to castle and tea garden / bunk house.

Kerrera

From the ferry, we turned left along Horseshoe Bay and Little Horseshoe Bay. We hadn’t gone far when we discovered the tea garden owners were enterprising in a quirky sort of way. The slates read Hello! Is it tea you’re looking for? Lionel Rich Tea. 

From here on our walk was punctuated by teapots – and cattle. At one time, Kerrera was a stepping stone for transporting cattle from Mull (the much larger island behind it) to the mainland.

Sometimes the teapot messages were really helpful. Cake!

The path to the castle was just before the tea garden but we chose to go for a cup of tea first, then explore the castle and return for lunch. Might as well make full use of the place! It was a lovely sunny day, but even if it hadn’t been there was comfortable indoor seating in the old barn.

The quirkiness continued in the bike park (an old tree trunk, click to enlarge to make it clearer).

And the toilet which is twinned with a toilet in Pakistan.

The ruined Gylen Castle, dramatically perched on a rocky outcrop, was built in 1587 by Duncan MacDougall of Dunollie, the 16th chief, on the site of an earlier fortification.

From the castle and tea garden, the path followed the more rugged western edge of the island before crossing back to the ferry point. And, of course, just in case anyone was walking the loop in the other direction, there were more teapots.

This was an absolutely beautiful day and I’d love to go back to Kerrera. The next day, we were heading back home from Oban and the weather was not so kind to us. We still made some interesting stops, though – next time!

I’m linking this post to Jo’s Monday Walks. Pop over for some Portuguese sunshine, I could certainly do with that today!

68 Comments »

  1. Hi Anabel – sounds wonderful … love your descriptions, but also their teapot creativity … clever – cheers Hilary

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  2. It’s a really nice island. No tearoom when I was over around 20 years ago but the walk looks the same. Think there’s a woman who runs a parrot sanctuary on Kerrera if she’s still there.

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    • I hadn’t heard that, but I’ve looked it up and apparently she retired a few years ago and the parrots have moved to a the mainland. That would have been interesting to see and would have added to the quirkiness!

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  3. A great walk + scenic views + quirkiness + a hot drink = perfection to me! Thanks for sharing this, Anabel.

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  4. What fun . . .would have been rude not to have stopped and sampled the tea! And as ever your Scottish posts continue to work their magic, and keep Scotland high up the list for next home.

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  5. Lovely post Anabel.
    I’ve never heard of Kerrera before, it looks a beautiful place to visit. I love the quirkiness of the tearoom and that tea pot you were given is amazing!

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  6. How cute and quirky that tea pot Trail. It had me smile all the way. Such creative owners, and something different for the visitor. The scenery looks very Scottish to me. Kerrera looks like a wonderful island to visit! I’m glad you lucked out with the weather.

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  7. The looped walk would have been my choice too because I hate having to walk (or drive) back on the same route. I think the tea signs might have started to irritate me a bit though. But if they serve cake I might forgive them 🙂

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  8. Wonderful! I’m always en route for the Ferry when I’m in Oban these days, so hard to take a day out to visit Kerrera. It features in my books, although I’ve used the name as an alternative for Oban.

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  9. What a fabulous choice you made, going to the tea garden and the castle! The quirky little signs and teapots along the way are adorable; no wonder you stopped for tea and then back again for lunch. And the Gylen Castle is so beautifully situated along the rocky coast. It’s stunning. I want to go here!! 🙂

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  10. Fabulous! I’d never even heard of Kerrera but now it’s firmly on my radar (though maybe not this winter 🙂 ). Brilliant to have the humour and enterprisingness for the teapot markings and what a lovely castle and situation, Anabel. Thanks for a wonderful share.

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    • The ferry can carry one or two cars so residents can get over to the mainland. I called it a passenger ferry because visitors can only go on foot but that’s not strictly accurate I suppose. I expect a tank lasts a long time!

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  11. Oh, now this is my kind of place! I absolutely love the quirkiness, the not many cars, the water, and the emphasis on tea. I even love the name of the place. Kerrera is going on my bucket list right now.

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  12. Love it, especially the little motivators along the way 🙂 Very creative and thinking out of the square!! 11kms was a decent walk to have tea and cake. Enjoyable post.

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  13. Kerrera looks a wonderful place for a walk. You will never get lost with all those quirky signs! I had never heard of Kerrera before you wrote about it in your last post. X

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