A walk on Great Cumbrae

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Magnus the Viking

On Easter Saturday we decided to take a trip to Great Cumbrae, an island just off the coast of Ayrshire. Don’t be fooled by the name – the island’s circumference is only about 10 miles, but there’s also a Little Cumbrae so this one has to be Great!

We arrived at the ferry terminal in Largs and left our car under the watchful eye of Magnus the Viking. He appeared in 2013 to commemorate the 750th anniversary of the Battle of Largs in 1263, an indecisive engagement between the kingdoms of Norway and Scotland.

The ferry ride from Largs to Cumbrae Slip only takes about 10 minutes, but the skies changed dramatically during the short journey. When the ferry arrived in Largs, all was blue. When it dropped us off at Cumbrae, the skies were grey and a strong wind was blowing. That set the tone for the rest of the day.

Cumbrae ferry arriving
Cumbrae ferry departing

A bus meets every ferry and takes passengers into the main settlement of Millport. After a quick coffee and scone as fuel, we set off on our walk. As we climbed out of the town, first stop was the old cemetery, used from 1703 to the 1930s. John spotted the 15th century “jougs” on the gatepost for manacling prisoners.

Ancient jougs
Old cemetery
Old cemetery

The road we were following ended at a golf course, so we struck off along farm tracks and onto open hillside. The Gowk Stane is one of several in Scotland – it means Stone of the Cuckoo (or fool) in Scots.

Gowk Stane
Gowk Stane

The path then dropped steeply down to the far side of the island where we made a small detour to the Fintry Bay tearoom for a hot drink – at least, we expected a tearoom, but it turned out to be outdoor seating only, so it didn’t warm us up much!

Fintyr Bay Kiosk
Fintyr Bay Kiosk

The toilet facilities were basic, but charming. We had read in town that due to council cuts, public toilets are now community-run. It seems that Suki is doing a great job in Fintry Bay. (Apologies, Scottish readers, for the scatological pun.) Cludgie is probably self-explanatory from the context.

Fintry Bay facilities
Fintry Bay facilities
Fintry Bay facilities

From here, we followed the perimeter road and coastal paths round the headland back to Millport. Next stop, the War Memorial.

War Memorial
War Memorial
War Memorial
War Memorial

The views across to the islands of Bute and the more mountainous Arran behind it were amazingly beautiful, despite the clouds.

Views to Bute and Arran
View of Arran

The road back into Millport took us past some splendid Victorian villas and then more humble terraced housing.

Millport
Millport

What next? Well, it was either a very late lunch or a very early dinner. We headed for the George Hotel where we met a friendly band of pirates and were entertained by a band as we ate.

Ahoy, me hearties!
Band of pirates?
Shiver me timbers!

We could have got the bus back to the ferry from outside the George, but decided to walk a bit further. We spotted a conference bike for hire and The Wedge which purports to be Britain’s narrowest house – that’s it to the left of the café, barely wider than its front door. Garrison House, built in 1745 to house the captain and officers of the Revenue Cutter Royal George stationed in Millport, is now the town’s library and museum.

Conference bike
The Wedge
Garrison House

Turning left, we went back uphill to the walled, wooded grounds of The Cathedral of the Isles, the smallest cathedral in Britain. It dates from 1851 when it was built as a theological college for the Scottish Episcopal Church – it’s still possible to stay in the old college buildings and the cloisters house a pleasant do-it-yourself coffee shop.

Cathedral of the Isles
Cathedral of the Isles
Cathedral of the Isles
Cathedral of the Isles
Cathedral of the Isles
Cathedral of the Isles

Finally, we made our way back down to the seafront to see Millport’s famous Crocodile Rock – the Clyde’s fiercest stone since c. 1900!

Crocodile Rock
Crocodile Rock

From here, it was a short bus ride back to the ferry and home. Who would have thought we’d meet Vikings, pirates, and crocodiles on a tiny Scottish island?

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk – join her and her band of fellow cyber-strollers.

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116 Comments »

  1. Pingback: Glasgow Gallivanting: December 2018 – The Glasgow Gallivanter

  2. Anabel, I really enjoy your walking tours. So much history! Seeing your photos and reading your account makes me eager to visit Scotland some day.

    Jude

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  3. There is just so much history! I love your walks and this one would certainly appeal to Michael. The outdoor cafe would be nice on a warm day. The bathrooms are nice looking and much better than the ones here. Love the crocodile rock..hmmm….maybe Elton John painted it:) oh! Michael got his ancestry DNA and he I saw 61% English and 16% Scottish, Irish, Wales!

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    • Hmm, don’t think Elton was around in 1900! Maybe he got the idea for his song though 😉 Good for Michael – he’s a real Brit (and a mixture like the rest of us).

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  4. Pingback: Jo’s Monday walk : Interrupted, in Knaresborough | restlessjo

  5. An amazing outing you fitted so much in a day, That tiny, tiny house looks fascinating, could you go inside? I think I would need a few days to see everything and of course stops for sketching…

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  9. What a great post, and a great outing! You found some really cool things and some scenery worth looking at. one of these days, I must visit Scotland 🙂

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  10. When I first read your title, I was wondering where the crocodiles came in during a walk around Scotland! But that island looks well worth visiting, despite the gloomy weather. And how in the world did anyone ever live in such a slim house?

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    • My little attempt to intrigue! Apparently, the house really is a wedge and wider at the back, but even so …… Wouldn’t like to live there but would love a look around.

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  13. Love the look of this island! The crocodile rock is hilarious, and I like any toilet that gives you something to read whilst you’re inside, even though I didn’t fully understand the poem (I don’t know what Suki is!). I think Magnus is my favourite, though I know he’s not actually on Great Cumbrae.

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  15. You packed a lot of sights and history in one day! I would have considered the ferry ride alone a successful outing 🙂

    The Gowk Stane kind of puzzle me though. I’ve done a little research, but I still can’t figure out what exactly they are.

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  16. Hi Anabel- that was brilliant … loved seeing the pics and getting a bit of history – but I’d prefer a warmer day … I’m a soft southerner at heart!! Cheers Hilary

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  17. What a delightful post. It is so chockfull of so many lovely and interesting images and descriptions. I am wondering if the ferry ride was choppy when the weather changed on you? The views towards the islands and mountains are incredibly beautiful… all those blue tones! I love that you showed the Victorian villas and humble terraced housing, and actually both are very attractive. Thanks for sharing it all…

    Peta

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    • Thanks Peta. No, the ferry wasn’t choppy even when the wind got up. It doesn’t get to the open sea – it’s still in the Firth of Clyde and protected by island. It was indeed a delightful day out.

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  19. Suki is a friend of mine and it was great to see that poem dedicated to her heroic efforts! I must send her a link so she can read your post. We’ll have to try and get back to Millport once spring has arrived. It’s a bit slow in coming this year…

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  21. Vikings, pirates and crocodiles are all very impressive…especially for an Easter Weekend. It looks like a wonderful get-away!

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  23. A fun filled adventure despite the weather. Arran must have had a big dump of snow after your trip as I was there under a week later and it was plastered again. G.C. is a fantastic island as its so easy to reach yet feels unique. That’s what I’ve got against council cuts- the ones at the apex are still raking it in as normal with vast profits to be made yet its always the public paying for everything nowadays with ‘austerity measures’ as a con to get us to pay for facilities that used to be free and taken for granted as such. A bit like opening a half sized Mars bar at the same price and being told ‘its better for you.’ Aye right :o)

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    • Yes, the euphemism “community run” hides a multitude of sins. I’d read quite a lot about cuts in Argyll and Bute – i didn’t know Ayrshire was going down that road too. Public toilets are very important – it. It might seem fine to leave them to volunteers until, say, Suki decides to give up and no-one else steps forward.

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  24. This was a very interesting walk Anabel and you saw so many things! One day I shall get back up to Scotland and do some island hopping. The scenery is so impressive.

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  25. You packed a lot into your trip to Cumbrae. I realised on reading your post that it was a place I never made it to. That’s a pity as it looks like a quaint place and a good spot for a wander.

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  26. This island sure packs a punch, Anabel. And, it seems to be very walkable, with enough places to top off the stomach and the energy levels. It even sports a cute-looking toilet building. Sparse or not, when I have to go, all I care about is that the my stuff disappears somehow and there is toilet paper. 🙂 What a wonderful destination for a day trip, despite (I mean especially) with all those encounters!

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  28. Those mountains look tempting. I really must get up to the Highlands and Islands before I get too old and knackered – time is running out ☹️

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  32. Looks like a good day was had. Yet to get to Great Cumbrae, unfortunately, though the CalMac ferry tempts me each time I’m in Largs. Maybe this summer…

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  34. Despite the cloudy and cold day, it seems you had a marvelous time. The clouds add to the beauty in those views of Bute and Arran. I also love the Gowk Stane. Too bad you couldn’t get warm because of only outdoor seating when you stopped for a warm drink. What a fun outing!

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  37. That was a great little expedition, Anabel. When I saw those manacle chains I thought what a miserable existence they must have had. I don’t suppose the views cheered them much, but they are beautiful, aren’t they? 🙂 🙂 We were lost in fog this morning but it has finally given way to sunshine. Hooray! 🙂 Thanks for linking.

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    • John just spotted the manacles on the way out – they weren’t mentioned in the walk description. It would be really cold up there, I can tell you! Wasn’t bad here this morning, but now it’s raining. For a change 😉☔️

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  39. Oh wow, I visited Cumbrae a couple of times as a child on family holidays to Scotland. I remover we hired bicycles and cycled round the island and I remember we stopped to admire the gogeous views of Bute and Arran. I always said I would do that bike ride again someday. I never saw the Crocodile rock though. X

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    • We have done that cycle before – there are several bike hire shops in town, so maybe next time we’ll do that. It would be quite easy to walk round the perimeter too, though it’s all road. Can’t believe you missed the famous crocodile rock!

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  41. What a fabulous wee island. Looks like Suki’s got quite creative with the cludgies. I can’t imagine my local community stepping up to look after our public loos. We’d more likely be down at the Council office protesting.
    And please tell me The Wedge is so called purely because it’s wedged between two buildings, and not that it’s also wedge-shaped. 🙂

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  42. And a very satisfying walking it was too. Thank you for taking me somewhere I had no idea existed, and for showing the marvels of this tiny place. I especially loved the crocodile rock. How fascinating that must be for children.

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    • Generations of children! I’m sure if I looked hard enough I could find a picture of myself clambering over it in the 60s. As I said to another commenter, this is a very popular West of Scotland seaside destination which probably isn’t well known elsewhere. Getting the ferry makes it seem much further away than it really is.

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  43. Lovely walk – shame the weather changed and didn’t change back again! I wondered whether that Rock of the Cuckoo has been derived from Rock of the Cuckold – and indeed whether the two words are closely connected anyway. Must ask Susie Dent….

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    • Interesting thought which has sent me straight to Wikipedia. “A cuckold is the husband of an adulterous wife. In evolutionary biology, the term is also applied to males who are unwittingly investing parental effort in offspring that are not genetically their own.” So – cuckoo in the nest!

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  44. Hello Anabel,
    I always look forward to reading your posts as I see them in my email. You are able to really pique my appetite for visiting Scotland. You also present places most tourists (me included) would never think of visiting. Well done!
    Fran

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    • Thank you, Fran! I really hope you get to see some of them yourself some day. Millport has been a traditional seaside destination for Glasgow families going “doon the watter” for a very long time but maybe isn’t well known to visitors.

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    • I knew the rock had been painted since my childhood, but I didn’t realise till I read the new-ish sign that it went back to 1900. Probably had a few repaints since then though!

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