Hebridean Hop 18: Vatersay

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Tuesday 14th August 2018

Macroon’s Café scone

I last wrote about our Hebridean Hop at the beginning of November – how time flies! We had just arrived in Barra, our last port of call on the trip. Now the story continues …

Our first morning dawned very dreich – not the weather for getting the boat out to the castle as planned – so we visited Dualchas, the small heritage centre, instead. (No photography allowed.) Its main collection heavily features the history of the herring industry: more interesting than it sounds, particularly the story of the herring girls who followed the fish down the coast to Great Yarmouth as long ago as the 1880s. (There’s an interesting post about them on F Yeah History.) The special exhibition when we were there was on Father John MacMillan (1880-1951), another of the inspirational island priests we kept coming across on our travels. A few days later, we went searching for his grave: apparently 1200 people attended his funeral.

It wasn’t quite lunchtime, but we needed somewhere to go to plan our next move so headed for Macroon’s Café in the Post Office. Both parts of the business are run by an enterprising Yorkshire couple who relocated to Barra after redundancy simply because they liked Whisky Galore – Macroon is the name of the postmaster in the film. The scones, as you can see above, are awesome.

Our decision was to drive to Vatersay, a neighbouring island attached to Barra by a causeway, to take a walk there. After parking the car, we headed for Tràigh Siar (West Beach) passing the memorial to the Annie Jane on the way.

Annie Jane memorial
Traigh Siar, Vatersay

The Annie Jane ran aground here in 1853. With at least 450 emigrants bound for Canada (it’s impossible to say exactly how many because children’s names were not recorded), the ship hit rocks in a storm and broke into three parts. Only about 100 people survived, and the dead were buried in two mass graves in the dunes.

At the end of the beach, we turned uphill to the summit of Dun Vatersay. This was very wet and boggy, and the locals watched us struggling with some interest! From the top we could see both Tràigh Siar and Bàgh Bhatarsaigh (Vatersay bay) as well as Vatersay village.

Vatersay sheep
Vatersay isthmus
Vatersay village

We continued the boggy struggle, passing a standing stone (though some think it might be just an old gatepost) on our way to Bàgh a Deas (South Bay) which we shared with more locals.

Vatersay standing stone
Vatersay cattle

The next point of interest was the ruined village of Eorisdale built by the Vatersay Raiders. At the beginning of the 20th century the island, which her tenants farmed as a single holding, was owned by Lady Gordon Cathcart. Pressure on land throughout the Western Isles led ten men to raid Vatersay, build huts and plant potatoes without permission. In 1908, some were imprisoned for refusing to leave, but the case caused an outcry across Scotland, and in 1909 the Government responded more positively by buying the island and dividing it up into 58 crofts. The village was built at this time and was inhabited as recently as the 1970s.

Eorisdale
Eorisdale

Finally, after more boggy walking, we descended to Vatersay Bay.

We’d been here before! The first photograph below shows me with our friends John and Pat in 1993. I remember then there were lots of abandoned cars in the dunes. We didn’t spot any this time, but they are probably still buried there – the next photograph of the fence at the top of the dunes on the way back to the car shows how quickly the sand can shift.

Vatersay Bay 1993
Sand dunes, Vatersay

On the way back we stopped a couple of times – at the unusual war memorial and at a viewpoint over Castlebay.

Barra and Vatersay War Memorial
View over Castlebay

Maybe we’d get out to the castle tomorrow?

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk – she’s settled in Portugal now.

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52 Comments »

  1. The photo of the sheep on the hill is great! I also really like the one of Vatersay Bay: the warm-toned sand, the aqua water, and the white boats against the blue-grey hills and sky.

    Jude

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  4. The scones and a nice cup of tea would go down well! How tragic about the ship foundering – those poor people 😦 It would be such a tough life on these remote islands back in the day. I like the photos of the “locals” – fine-looking sheep and cows and they do look intrigued!

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  5. Beautiful images! We are only in Scotland for a year or so and are planning a bit of island hopping in the Summer to see as much as we can. This post has really whet my appetite.

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  6. Pingback: Jo’s Monday walk : Party time in Ayamonte | restlessjo

  9. A boggy walk was made very interesting by the various bits of historical insight you threw into the article – very satisfying, thank you. And yes, those scones do look awesome!

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  10. I’m popping over from Liesbet’s Roaming About blog to visit a Glasgow Gallivanter. Your still-life with scones is very appetizing. I’ve lived in Florida all my married life and now writing memoir of my early life as a Mennonite in Pennsylvania.

    Pleased to find you here, Anabel. 🙂

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  17. What an interesting story about the herring girls and the inspirational island priest. That scone looks so tasty! And I love the landscape on your walk. It reminds me in some parts of when I crossed the Pyrenees on the second day on the Camino. It will post tomorrow morning. Lots of cows, horses, sheep, and green mountains. Thanks for taking us along on your adventure. 🙂

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  20. Thanks, Anabel! 🙂 🙂 That hefty scone must have put lunch back a bit? I remember our local museum in Hartlepool had an interesting exhibition involving the herring girls at one time.

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  21. We never made it to Barra or Vatersay. They look beautiful. Maybe oneday we will. Thinking of finally going abroad ( for the first time in 5 years) this year. Though we would still love to explore more of the Scottish islands. X

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