Islay: Mull of Oa and Port Ellen

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Admiring the extensive views, Mull of Oa

The Oa (just pronounced O) is the rocky and rugged peninsula in the southwest of Islay. Once fairly densely populated, it now has only a few scattered dwellings, one of which is our rented cottage. A top priority was to drive out to the Mull of Oa – the tip – to the American Monument: our error was to do this on the first morning. The weather looked reasonably pleasant from our window, but we failed to take into account that the Mull was considerably higher than we were and the closer we got, the poorer visibility became.

Oh well, we pressed on regardless. The Mull is an RSPB reserve, so we left the car in its parking area and set off on a waymarked circular tour (3.5km). If there were birds, we couldn’t see them.

The outer route is direct to the monument, but before we got there we were surprised by a herd of feral goats suddenly looming out of the mist: almost impossible to photograph. This one looks quite evil!

The monument itself was similarly invisible until we were almost upon it. The second picture below is from our previous visit in 1989 – that’s John lurking under the blue cagoule – so we have never visited this site in good weather! Last time was even worse: we had hired bikes and cycled out from Port Ellen (hence the map pocket round John’s neck) and it wasn’t just misty, it was pouring. I remember we cut our losses on the full-day hire and returned the bikes by lunchtime.

American Monument 2019
American Monument 1989

What is the American Monument? It was erected by the American Red Cross in 1920 to commemorate two US troopship disasters off the coast of Islay in 1918. SS Tuscania was torpedoed by a German U-Boat on 5th February with the loss of over 200 American and British crew. A few months later, HMS Otranto sank following a collision in bad weather with another troopship. This time 431 people died, including 80 British crew. As well as the main commemoration, there is a tribute from President Woodrow Wilson.

American Monument
American Monument
American Monument inscription
Tribute from Woodrow Wilson
American Monument Eagle

As we left, we spotted more feral goats. This pair were more visble and posed helpfully against the skyline.

The return journey took us parallel to the clifftops – the mist was clearing a bit by this time. I suppose you could say the view was atmospheric, if not extensive …

From here, we turned inland again towards Upper Killeyan Farm and the path back to the carpark. There were several highland cattle in the field who were not bothered by us at all. Even the one almost blocking the gate barely looked at us as we sidled past. Scary horns though!

As we had to pass our cottage to go on to our next walk, we stopped off there for lunch before heading down to Port Ellen, the island’s second largest town. Below is the Islay Hotel which sits on a corner site overlooking the seafront. (We didn’t go inside this time, but we had lunch there later in the week when I took the shot of their wine glass chandelier which caught my eye.)

Islay Hotel
Wine glass chandelier

We stayed in the Islay Hotel in 1989, though that building was later demolished after 20 years of dereliction, and replaced with the current hotel in 2011. The two views below are of the same terrace. The first, taken in 1989, looks towards the old hotel, the taller building just right of centre. The second, taken this year, looks in the other direction along the terrace from the hotel, but I think you can see that they are recognisably the same.

Port Ellen 1989
Looking west from the Islay Hotel.

After almost 3 weeks of camping and B&Bs in 1989, we thought the Islay Hotel would be a treat for the last three nights of our holiday. Nothing could have been further from the truth! The place was very run down and badly managed, so I’m not surprised it closed a few years later. The owners were a couple who, I’m guessing, had sold their home in the South of England for such a vast price that they could afford to buy a Scottish hotel – not an uncommon occurrence. Unfortunately their management skills seemed to be close to zero, but you couldn’t dislike them because every time something went wrong they would laugh merrily as they botched a solution, whereas I’d have been dying of embarrassment at demonstrating such incompetence. Later in the week of our recent stay, we asked someone local if he knew what had happened to them and it seems they left the island. Probably one of their wiser decisions.

Anyway, back to the present day. We wandered round Port Ellen, which didn’t take long, before heading off on a 5km loop in search of standing stones. The weather improved as the afternoon wore on and we were able to appreciate the views this time.

War Memorial
War Memorial
Port Ellen
Community Garden
Port Ellen

The walk first of all took us up a very well made cycleway / footpath running alongside the main road. There are three distilleries on the coast to the east of Port Ellen – Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg – and this would be a fabulous way to visit them on foot, possibly getting the bus back if the refreshment had taken away your desire to walk. Our whisky plans were for another day, however, so we turned off before we reached any of the distilleries. But first we climbed the small mound topped by the memorial to Major General Alexander McDougall.

McDougall Monument
View east from the monument
View west from the monument

McDougall was born in Islay in 1732, but emigrated to New York with his family when he was six. His first job was as a milk delivery boy, then he signed up as a merchant seaman aged 14. He worked his way up to become the owner of several ships before being commissioned in the Continental Amy during the American War of Independence. He later became a politician and President of the Bank of New York – MacDougal Street in Greenwich Village is named in his honour. (I’m not sure why the spelling is different. A mistake? Or maybe he had changed his name slightly?)

Across the road from the memorial is the Old Excise House. We took the lane running alongside it, walking uphill through the fertile fields growing grain for the whisky.

Old Excise House
Old Excise House

The verges were lush with wild flowers. A stile on the right provided access to the first standing stone, one of many dotted across Islay which date from the Neolithic or early Bronze Age. Climbing above it, we could look back on the distillery buildings of Laphroaig.

Primroses and bluebells
Islay standing stone
Looking down on Laphroaig
Looking down on Laphroaig
Looking down on Laphroaig

We continued up the lane and turned right onto the tiny road towards Kilbride Farm where there is another stone.

Islay standing stone
Islay standing stone

Retracing our steps, we passed the junction with the lane and carried on down the road back to Port Ellen. Here we met some curious cows who gave us a hard stare from behind a wall. They didn’t have the big horns of the highland cattle, but they looked much more intimidating. The second picture below, of cows blocking a gate, dates from 1989 so we must have had a similar experience then. What is it about Islay cows?

Islay cows
Islay cows 1989

The field across the road contained another standing stone. There appeared to be no cows in it, but there’s a cunning dip in which they were hiding. As we walked up to the stone we spooked a small herd of deer which ran down the slope, followed by the thundering hooves of at least 20 cows. They ran back and forward across the field as a herd, eventually stopping between us and the gate. And staring. Hard. We sidled to the fence at the side. Barbed wire, so I wasn’t going to climb that. Fortunately by this time, the cows were beginning to lose interest in us and wandered off. No pictures of this bunch, but next to the stone below (which wasn’t even all that attractive) you can see the first lot again who, after our escape, were still giving us the evil eye.

Islay standing stone
Islay cows

The last stone was near the junction of the main road we’d started out on. Fortunately, no cows in sight. From there it was a short distance back to Port Ellen and our car.

Islay standing stone
Islay standing stone

I really should have had my July Gallivanting post online today, but guess what? We’ve been gallivanting too much! A large part of the month was spent travelling with no time to write and sometimes without decent wifi, which also eplains why I have been less active in blog reading and commenting – apologies!  I’ll do a joint July / August Gallivanting post instead.

In a further complication,  I’ve been called to the High Court for jury duty, starting on Wednesday. As this is the last post I prepared before we went on holiday, I might have to go silent for a bit if I’m selected to serve. I know it’s my civic duty and I should want to do it, but I really hope I’m not picked. I’ve served on four juries in total, the first when I was only 19 years old, so I think I’ve done my bit!

Till we meet again … may it be soon.

Scotland, UK , , , , ,

73 Comments »

  1. Pingback: April Squares: extensive views – The Glasgow Gallivanter

  2. That goat is terrifying. I was going to ask how you knew they were feral, but Hilary addressed that in her comment.

    Rob has enjoyed the products of all three of those distilleries.

    Jude

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  3. I think that group of cows staring at you look rather threatening !
    Islay, though, looks as interesting as I’d imagined. Doesn’t look very hilly mind. 😂

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  4. Loved everything about this post but especialliy the lead off image of John, the shore photo of Port Ellen, and the McDougall (or is it MacDougall) connection to my home (I’ve walked that street many times). Even with the fog/overcast skies, I’d want to visit here (they actually enhance the scenes :-). Why has Oa’s population diminished?

    I hope you dobt get picked to serve jury duty but then I kind of hope you do. I got picked once much to my chagrin but fiund it fascinationg in the end

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    • I was rather pleased with that shot of John gazing into the mist! The Highland Clearances in the 19C depopulated many areas of Scotland, including Islay – landlords found sheep more profitable than people and evicted tenants from their land. Many emigrated, which is probably why we meet so many people in the States with Scots ancestry.

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  5. Boy, you had all kinds of animal encounters on this day. That one feral goat does look evil! Interesting about the American monument. It really is too bad about the fog; I think fog is the worst thing one can encounter while traveling because you can’t see anything. I think it’s funny that the innkeepers could laugh at their poor management skills; I love self-deprecating people, even if they are bumblers! 🙂 So did you get picked for jury duty?

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    • This was our only foggy day – things brightened up! We couldn’t dislike the innkeepers who were endearingly daffy, but it did make for a terrible place to stay. Jury duty came and went – I phoned in each night to see if I was needed and I wasn’t. The third time I was released. However, it meant I couldn’t plan anything until the end of this week in case I was on a trial, so it was quite disruptive even though I never actually went to the court.

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  6. You were brave to keep going in the morning, but so glad it cleared up in the afternoon for you. Glorious walk, now are you sure it is the Islay cows . . could be you two you know!!!

    If you do get snared by jury service hope it is a short one. I have never been called!

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    • Oh, I never thought of that – cows hate us! Jury service is already over – three nights of calling the helpline to be told I wasn’t needed the following day and discharged on the last one. It was still very disruptive though, as I couldn’t plan anything for those days (or indeed, next week in case I was on a trial).

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  7. It looks like the weather improved for you in the afternoon. And sounds like you found the original Fawlty Towers back in 1989. Thanks for another great day out.

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  9. You’re not wrong about that first goat; I can see why they have Satanic connotations.

    Thanks for sharing your break; it looks wonderful, even (or especially) in the mist.

    Glad to hear you escaped actual jury service. My dad was on the jury of a murder trial once and it was a horrific experience for him.

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  11. Hi Anabel – you have done your bit of jury duty – they called me up, as I was about to leave for South Africa – I breathed a sigh of relief – though now the experience would be interesting.

    Great comparable shots you’ve given us … your feral goats – I knew I’d written about them – they were brought over from Switzerland … and seems they weren’t as successful as our British ones – but over the years I expect they’ve happily adapted to the Isles way of life …

    Glad you’ve been having a good time … take care and see you when we do! Cheers Hilary

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  12. Coos, at last! They’re lovely. The other cows do sound scary though – I really like cows, but I’m always a bit wary when I have to walk through a herd of them. It’s the same with the deer in Richmond Park, which freak me out, especially during rutting season.

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  14. Yeah, that goat looks like it just came off of the set of Salem’s Lot. The place does look very foggy and eerie. You have been busy travelling g and that is great. I have not ever been called for jury duty and hope I never am…famous last words.

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  15. A very interesting post and you’re right about that first goat, it really does look evil 😦 I like the shot of Port Ellen though, the bay looks really nice 🙂

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  17. You get around a bit don’t you? Island still looks fabulous even in the typical scottish weather. Can;t believe you’ve been selected for four juries, that’s unbelievable. Most people never even get called up once do they? I’ve been on one and loved it.

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    • I found it very interesting too, but the novelty palls after 4! To be fair, I got the first three over all at once when I was 19 under the English system (not sure if it still works that way) where they called you for a fortnight and put you on as many juries as they could in that time. I’ve been called a few times in Glasgow but only served once. The random doesn’t seem to be very random in my case.

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  19. It’s a shame you didn’t get better views on the Oa but fairly typical of the Highlands, one of the reasons that scunnered me with winter hill-walking/climbing weekends up north as it was always, freezing, windy and utterly miserable 80 percent of the visits. Glad it picked up later for your visit. Ditto with Jury Duty- keen first few times- not so keen after that. I seem to get nabbed every few years like clockwork for it being completely random selection. I suppose it shows we are honest citizens.

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  20. I knew there was a reason I don’t like cows! A gang of cows blocking the exit is my nightmare come true. And those fearsome goats as well. Lucky the scenery, history and distilleries were worth it all.

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  21. I’d have run a long way from those evil-looking-goats. I’ve never felt happy when around them as they can charge so quickly and with no reason. Their yellow eyes are really scary. Loved your Highland cattle though, but I think I would have sidled past them with a “Good cow, thank you”. Port Ellen looks so pretty and your many photos of the standing stones reminded me very much of parts of Ireland where we have the same. Glad you managed to make the most of the weather.

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  22. Those goats are rather unsettling… Against the backdrop of mist and rain, I don’t think I’d have ventured as far you did!

    I was called for jury duty at the local sheriff court a number of years ago but was spared having to sit on the jury by way of knowing one of the defendants (we had grown up in the same street).

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  23. Touchwood, never been called for jury service. So not good when you have so much travelling to do! I love it how you often revisit places you saw thirty plus years ago. X

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  24. I must admit I am wary of cattle in fields. All the public footpaths around here go through fields and often they have cattle in them including bulls! Mindst you that first goat looks positively evil! A nice walk with you both, very Cornish with the weather and views! As for jury duty so far I have avoided it, I hope you do this time too!

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  25. Anabel – as with your photos, sometimes the fog brings a wonderful, soft mood. Of course, I didn’t have to walk/ride in the weather! Good luck with the jury service – I’ve been called, also, next month. Cheers – Susan

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  26. Your summer sounds exactly what summer should be all about. Indoor stuff, blogging, and writing are for the cooler days ahead 🙂

    Good luck with jury duty and hope you are out back gallivanting in no time!

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  27. That first goat does look perfectly demonic – much scarier than the cows. I’ve been really intimidated by cow herds though.

    Hope you don’t have to do the jury thing again!

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  29. Lovely post despite the fog… Your hotel story from 1989 reminds me of Fawlty Towers though the inn keepers weren’t that pleasant but as incompetent.

    Good luck with the jury duty. I have yet to be called so I cross fingers that my bad luck at draw will continue to serve me when it comes to be called…(Suzanne)

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    • Thanks Suzanne – it was all a bit Fawlty Towers! As for the jury duty, I’m keeping my fingers crossed too. It’s making life a bit uncertain at the moment as I can’t plan anything during the day for the next week or so until I know if I’m needed or not.

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  30. Excellent post. The different spellings might be a bureaucratic thing. I’ve heard of some very distinctive names arising from the rush of a clerk making a best guess.

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  31. Ah, I’ve had beautiful views like that too. Mt St Helens was a case in point. I took some nice pictures of flowers dripping with condensation, if I remember rightly.

    The cows are probably guard cows, and require the proper payment. 🙂

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