Eyemouth
We visited Eyemouth three times while staying nearby in Lower Burnmouth. The first time we arrived late one afternoon, after walking elsewhere, to restock at the local Co-Op. We were in time to see seals being fed in the harbour (with the gulls looking on with a beady eye in case they missed anything).
The Harbour itself was a colourful area – with the fishermen making their feelings for the EU rather clear.
We stopped short looking across at Gunsgreen House because the bridge across to it was closed and it would have been a long detour via the road. Gunsgreen was built around 1753 for local merchant John Nisbet, who was also suspected to be a smuggler. The house was rumoured to have secret passages and huge cellars large enough to hold hundreds of kegs of smuggled brandy. It is now a museum.
Back in the town market place we saw a statue of Willie Spears (1812-1855) who, at great personal risk, led a revolt against the tithes on fish levied by the Church of Scotland. After a 20 year battle, during which Spears served time in jail, the fishermen were allowed to buy out the tithe for £2,000. Spears was not at sea during the great fishing disaster of 1881, but watched from land. Nearby is the monument to that disaster, which I wrote about in a previous post.
Our second visit was the day we walked along the coastal path to Eyemouth, as described in my last post. This brought us in behind Gunsgreen House, so we were looking at the harbour from the other side. Nisbet’s Tower, the building with red painted door, is a renovated 18th century doocot (dovecote), now a holiday let. I want to stay there next time! There’s a rather inanimate workman on the bridge which is being repaired – his notice says “Bridge over the River Queye – eventually”. At least his mate has managed to catch a fish – in someone’s garden?
More colourful tiles etc – and a rather scary marker for the flood of 1948.
On this occasion, we had lunch in a bar called Oblò.
We liked it so much that we returned there for breakfast on our final day, the occasion of our last visit to Eyemouth. After breakfast, we visited the town’s museum which I’ve already written something about in my Great Fishing Disaster post. However, there was more to see than that. I spotted an old picture of our cottage in the days when it was, literally, a lobster house, and there was a small display about local suffragettes, always of interest to me.
And they had a very good interactive 3D recreation of Eyemouth’s 16th century fort. Seen here is a shot of the 3D fort and an aerial view of it in real life.
We decided to walk out there next. It was a beautiful morning and the sea was stunning.
You wouldn’t really have known you were in a fort, apart from a few cannons here and there. It was originally built in 1547 as an English fort, part of the “Rough Wooing” campaign to marry Henry VIII’s son Edward to the infant Mary Queen of Scots. Three years later it was abandoned, then rebuilt in 1557 to house French troops, Scotland and France being allies against England. This was also short lived, and it was demolished again in 1559 – so it’s not surprising there is little left.
Finally, a picture that didn’t fit into any of the galleries, but I thought The Old Bakehouse was too pretty to leave out.
This third visit to Eyemouth may have ended our holiday, but there are several gaps still to fill in. There’s much more information about this part of Scotland to come.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
Anabel, you always take us to the most picturesque places in Scotland. It makes me yearn to go travelling again.
Jude
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I’m glad to inspire you! I think we’re all yearning for somewhere different at the moment, however nice the place we are restricted to might be.
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Hmm, not a fan of the anti-EU flag, but at least the fish banners are charming!
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No, me neither, but it’s not surprising from east coast fishermen. Things are slightly more ambivalent on the west coast where a lot of it is shellfish which used to be exported straight to Europe.
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I love your photographs, I’m looking forward to reading more.
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Thank you, I’m pleased you liked them!
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That looks like an overall great vacation!
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Thanks – it was fabulous!
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Hi Anabel – it’s a lovely area isn’t – your story around Eyemouth and surrounds is gorgeous. Sounds like it was a very good visit – so I look forward to more anon – cheers Hilary
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It is definitely a lovely area. It’s good to look back on our visit, though a bit sad too in current circumstances.
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Sadly when we were in this part of the country it was enveloped in thick fog so although I detoured off the A1 to Eyemouth we didn’t bother stopping. It does look lovely though and I would be very happy to return and stay in that pretty dovecote.
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I would love to go back too.
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One day.
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Looks lovely!
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It was! And hopefully still will be when we’re able to get there again.
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😊
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Eyemouth looks so interesting and the thought of going into a pub and having a beer or something to eat now seems a bit strange. Not heard of the place before but it’s another fabulous location on the Scottish coast to add to our ever-increasing list of places to see.
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It seems like another world, doesn’t it? I remember sitting on that balcony so well, relaxing in the sun over a good lunch.
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I can’t imagine seagulls leaving any scraps behind. I bet they were fighting the seals for every morsel. Eyemouth looks like a great place to visit.
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It was great. The gulls were very alert!
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such a beautiful part of the country
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I know! *Sigh*
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What a lovely colourful place and such gorgeous views. And so nice to see the seals up close. X
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The seals were very cute. You could pay to feed them, or just watch which we did.
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Thanks for this. Now I have to pay a return visit. There is a caravan park nearby. I like caravans!
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A plan for the future!
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What an interesting place. I love how these small places use creative means to encourage more visitors and most of all the locals benefit a win-win situation. Can’t go past a seaview and yarnbombing.
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Totally agree, I think they have worked quite hard to combine being a working fishing port and an attractive seaside destination.
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That red door on the tower is quite eye-catching. Not sure whether I’m a fan or not… And, you are right, those sea views are spectacular. Sunshine brings happiness and nice views. Vacation feelings. 🙂
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Love the sea views – especially in my current land-locked situation!
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Hi, Anabel – I ❤ the history and geography lessons that you posts provide. I continue to learn a great deal.
BTW – The red door on Nisbet's Tower is very striking!
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There’s always something interesting to find out, everywhere, isn’t there? I love the red door.
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A wonderful trip, Anabel. I agree with you about the last photo. Definitely too pretty to leave out. 😍
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Thanks Sylvia. It’s such a lovely little town.
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One of the few Scottish fishing towns still with active boats going out. Only been there once- strange mix of vibrant place with a working picturesque harbour, but with a hinted at rough vibe of an evening in some of the pubs, That was years ago though, probably changed now.
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I think some of the pubs still had that look about them, though I can’t vouch for it as we were always safely back in our cosy cottage by dinner time!
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Beautiful little town, Anabel. I love the pops of artwork here and there. They even managed to give the middle finger poster an artistic flare 🙂
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Yes, that was well done! And very expressive.
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Gorgeous blue sea and sky, your weather was certainly glorious that day. Love the seals, and The Herring Queen tiles are really pretty 🙂
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The sea and sky on the last day was just magnificent. So blue.
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The pictures of the sea/coastline make me wish I was somewhere like that right now!
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I know the feeling!
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Looks like a lovely town and you even had blue skies… (Suzanne)
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Yes, we had lots of blue skies that week!
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This looks so refreshing and clean and fun! Your walks are so invigorating
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So are some of the breezes!
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I’ve been trying to figure out if the second beer was a back-up for John or if he was waiting for a friend to join him.
Lovely photos as usual, fascinating details, glad that Willie Spears got a statue erected to him.
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It is of course mine!
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Amazing photos, Anabel! I can almost smell the sea air. Yes, colourful in more ways than one. You have definitely placed Scotland on our “A” list when we are able to travel again. Looking forward to learn more. A beautiful post to enjoy with my morning coffee! Thank you.
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Aw, thanks Erica! Glad you enjoyed it. Eyemouth is such a lovely place.
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