Arbroath and Seaton Cliffs

Arbroath from Seaton Cliffs

During our recent stay near Montrose, we ventured a few miles south to Arbroath, another town I had never visited. That’s slightly shameful, given its importance in Scottish history: the Declaration of Arbroath is a letter dated 6 April 1320 written by the barons and freeholders of the Kingdom of Scotland to Pope John XXII. It asked the pope to recognise Scotland’s independence and acknowledge Robert the Bruce as the country’s lawful king. (A very fragile copy still exists in the National Records of Scotland. Unfortunately, plans for its 700th anniversary year were ruined by Covid restrictions).

Arbroath is therefore a historic, if slightly run down, town which we wandered round after lunch. In the morning we took a walk along the spectacular Seaton Cliffs to its north which were simply beautiful – a geologist would have a field day. There were sandstone arches, deep inlets and a sea stack, the Deil’s Heid (Devil’s Head), to explore. At one point, a blocked section of path meant we had to cut through a fruit farm where we disturbed a family of deer. John managed to get one on camera before it disappeared between the polytunnels.

Back in town, we were able to walk round the outside of Arbroath Abbey only – as with many Historic Scotland properties it’s still closed “as a precautionary measure while we undertake high level masonry inspections”.

We could have gone into the library, but I didn’t inflict that on John! It’s very attractive outside, with an unamused Queen Victoria above the door, flanked by two allegorical figures on each side. In the gardens to the front is a statue of Robert Burns, erected by Arbroath Burns Club in 1959.

Arbroath is a fishing town with a harbour established in the 12th century, and is particularly famous for its Arbroath Smokies, a smoked haddock delicacy (if you like that sort of thing).

Finally, a few random sights around town. The distinctive white building is the Signal Tower Museum (we didn’t go into that either!) and the double statue celebrates the aforementioned Declaration of Arbroath.

Not sure what will come next in my Montrose account – could be a garden, could be a castle, could be a beach – the area is packed with interest!

48 Comments »

  1. I know I’ve said it before, but I really do envy the history you have in Scotland. Although our country has been inhabited for just as long, we don’t have the statues, written records, or buildings that exist in Europe. I find them just fascinating!

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  2. Hi Anabel – I enjoy Smokies … while that scenery and the town look really interesting to look around, and a reason to go back at some stage … – I enjoyed that – cheers Hilary

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  3. Ah.. A new Declaration of Arbroath! I always think Queen V looks sour faced at the best of times. Anyway, yes, an interesting place but a great pity about the Abbey being closed off. Interesting Library building I’m sure himself would have appreciated a wander into the library..

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  4. It’s a lovely stretch of coast there. I like the musical notes, I don’t think they were there when I walked that bit of the coast.

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  5. That’s one area I have visited on the East Coast. Very impressive sea cliffs… rock formations… and I came back with a big smokie in the days when I could still eat fish.

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    • She is alleged to have said “we are not amused” and most statues certainly look that way. She spent decades in mourning after Prince Albert died. Our main statue of her in Glasgow has her young and on horseback which I think is quite unusual.

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  6. Hi Annabel
    I haven’t read your latest post fully but after your Montrose trip I wanted to mention that if my memory is correct Stephenson reconstructed part of Arbroath Abbey to act as as a landmark for returning vessels
    ATB
    John

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    • Thanks, John. I had not heard that, but you are right. According to the HES website: “The abbey’s famous ‘Round O’ – the circular window in the south transept gable – became a landmark for mariners. Robert Stevenson, grandfather of the novelist Robert Louis Stevenson, rebuilt it in 1809.”

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  7. That coastline looks stunning! And I agree, Queen Victoria looks totally unamused – maybe she didn’t approve of the new-fangled public libraries educating the masses 😆

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  8. I like the figures in the niches at the library and the music notes on the cliff top – is there any particular significance to them? Well done to John for getting the photo of the deer before it disappeared 🙂

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    • The info board just called them The Music Notes, but a couple of people have asked so I looked them up. Apparently an anonymous artist put them on the cliffs a few years ago, but they have since been moved to a safer place (too close to the edge before). The tune is Lord of the Dance.

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  9. Love that dramatic coastline and Arbroath looks very interesting, a good place wander and be happily distracted by this and that. Queen Victoria has the same expression I give the kids (and possibly the husband) when they are late home. It’s the perfect, ‘not amused’ look!

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  10. Love the Needle’s Eye! Don’t you just love coastlines? We’ve done a couple of cliff top walks in the last couple of days. Good for sea breezes 🤗💗

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