Summer 2022: Great Bernera and Butt of Lewis

69 Comments
Great Bernera

Two of the walks we did on Lewis were outside our local area of Uig. Great Bernera is an island just to the east of Uig, reached by a short bridge. The Butt of Lewis is its most northerly point.

Great Bernera (Beàrnaraigh)

Our walk began in Breacleit where there is a community café. We hoped to start with a morning coffee but, sadly, it was shut, so off we went in an undercaffeinated state.

We headed up the west coast of the island, a rocky landscape with several small lochs. Sites included a house with definite potential and a stone-built lobster pool.

Great Bernera
Anabel on Great Bernera
John on Great Bernera
Great Bernera
Great Bernera: house with potential
Great Bernera lobster pool

As we approached the north of the island we walked down Bostadh Glen where there is a reconstructed Iron Age house. This was open, but as a large party on a guided walk had just arrived, and it is a small house, we decided to give it a miss.

Bostadh Iron Age House

We spent time exploring the beautiful beach you can see behind the house above. The bell is part of an art project, Time and Tide, one of 12 bells installed around Britain to be rung by high tides.

Bostadh beach
Bell at Bostadh beach

From Bostadh, we walked back to Breacleit by road. The monument commemorates the Bernera Riot of 1874, part of the campaign for security of tenure that eventually resulted in the Crofters’ Act. It was erected in 1992 using stones from every croft on the island. We made some new friends at a roadside “Honesty Box” stall. I can’t remember if we bought any eggs from them, but we often do when we see them at road ends like this.

Looking back to Bostadh
Great Bernera ducks
Great Bernera cattle
Bernera Riot monument
Roadside stall
Roadside stall
Roadside stall

On the drive back, we stopped at the bridge back onto mainland Lewis – or rather, the two bridges. The original single-track road bridge, known locally as The Bridge Over The Atlantic, was opened in 1953 following pressure from local communities who had threatened to blow up rocks and create their own causeway if they didn’t get their way. By 2020 this bridge was in danger of crumbling away and was no longer suitable for heavy vehicles. A replacement was opened in December 2021 and the old bridge is now set out with picnic tables. Climbing above it, we explored some standing stones and a lovely view before resuming our journey home.

Both New Bernera Bridges
Old Bernera Bridge
New Bernera Bridge
Bernera standing stones
Bernera standing stones

Butt of Lewis

Eòropaidh Beach

This glorious walk started from Eòropaidh Beach and followed the Ness Coastal Path to the Butt of Lewis lighthouse before returning by road. As is often the case in coastal areas, there was a sad monument to those lost at sea, in this case two fishing boat crews from 1885. The memorial was placed here in Cunndal Bay in 2010.

Cunndal Bay memorial
Cunndal Bay memorial

The walk round the cliffs was stunning.

Ness Coastal Walk
Ness Coastal Walk
Ness Coastal Walk
Ness Coastal Walk
Ness Coastal Walk
Ness Coastal Walk

Then the lighthouse started to come into view. Like most in Scotland it was constructed by the Stevenson family, in this case in 1862.

Butt of Lewis lighthouse
Butt of Lewis lighthouse
Butt of Lewis lighthouse

The Butt of Lewis also marks the end of the Hebridean Way which John completed on his bike in 2021, so he had to have his picture taken there again. I just did a bit of posing.

John at Hebridean Way end
Anabel at Butt of Lewis

We continued round the coast past the sandy cove of Port Stoth to a small bridge out onto the sea stack of Dun Eistean, site of a late medieval fort traditionally known as the stronghold of Clan Morrison.

Port Stoth
Rock stack at Port Stoth
Looking towards Dun Eistan
Looking towards Dun Eistan
Looking towards Dun Eistan
View from Dun Eistan
Cairn at Dun Eistan
Anabel at Dun Eistan

The route now took us back down the road to Eòropaidh where we looked (from the outside – it wasn’t open) at the tiny 12th century church of St Moluag’s before returning to our car.

St Moluag’s, Eòropaidh
St Moluag’s, Eòropaidh
St Moluag’s, Eòropaidh
St Moluag’s, Eòropaidh

This is my last Lewis post – after our week here we took the ferry back to the mainland to spend another night in Ullapool before heading east for the final leg of our tour: The Black Isle.

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk.

Scotland, UK , , , , ,

69 Comments »

  3. Pingback: Jo’s Monday walk : Gedling Country Park, Nottingham | Still Restlessjo

  4. The walks are beautiful and the Butt of Lewis, in particular, is stunning. I like how they’ve turned the old Bernera Bridge into a picnic spot, it’s a great idea. I love the tide bells, too.

    Like

  6. Beautiful walks, although your new friends don’t seem very chatty. I love those tide bells, passing the one on Anglesey just a few days ago. I should have the full set by the time I finish my walk! 😀

    Like

  8. What a great way to use an old bridge that’s no longer safe for vehicle traffic! And I love what you consider a “house with potential.” My husband and I have rehabbed all our houses, but that one would have been a bit much even for us!

    Like

  9. Hi Anabel – stunning part of our land … fascinating to see your photos with the notations of life back in the 1800s and before. The Time and Tide project I hadn’t come across before – how fascinating … thank you for the info and for all the views. Congratulations to John on walking his cycle path! Cheers to you both – Hilary

    Like

  10. Oh, how very beautiful! Every time I read one of your travel posts it makes me think we should definitely start planning a return trip to Scotland. Last time, in 1999, we only scratched the surface. That house would be a “Grand Design” participant’s dream come true.

    Like

  12. You got some great photos, the scenery looks stunning. I like the view with the lobster pool and Port Stoth looks gorgeous. Did you hear the Time and Tide bell ringing? I’ve seen the Anglesey one and the one at Morecambe but never been there when the tide has been in.

    Like

  14. Beautiful walks and scenery. Definitely makes me want to visit Lewis. I like your first walk especially. The roadside store is very cute. 🙂

    Like

  16. Looks like you had better weather than I did when I visited Lewis last year. Stunning scenery whatever the weather though. I need to go back sometime, but as I often say, so many things to see and so little time.
    I’ve seen one of those time and tide bells in Anglesey and there’s another in Morecambe, not so far from here

    Like

  17. The coastal views are just stunning. Reminds me a little of the Monterey coast in California, with the rocky cliffs and very blue water. I was surprised that just one family built most of the lighthouses.

    Like

  18. You got good weather for it. My last trip to Lewis the forecast was for coast to coast sunshine all week, which it was for everywhere else- except Lewis which had thick sea mist because of a cold sea /warm air difference. Reminded me of 1970s summer holidays in Aberdeen with the sea haar there.

    Like

  21. Wonderful. I’m sorry you had to start with an undercaffeinated walk, but you seem to have coped 🙂

    A few weeks ago I commented I’d heard of that wreck towards the end of the war. I reckon it must have been when I read Marram, which I reviewed in March 20. It came to me when I was considering the possible difference in the trail underfoot around the coast and the roadway back again. They got severely bogged down on some trails in Marram. :O

    And – did you have fine weather the entire trip? Or are these just the few days you snatched photos! (Like my NZ photos)

    Like

  22. That house just needs some tlc…lol. you took some great photos…love the sheep just looking at you I the field. Oh that one picture you said was a bell but it looked like someone in the water

    Like

  24. I have never been to Lewis (we had intended to go island hopping when our boys were older) so I enjoyed getting to see the coast vicariously through your lovely post and wonderful photos. The landscapes look beautiful and rich with history too.

    Like

  25. I do love a coastal walk! The Lewis photos are wonderful. Not sure about that house project but it would have lovely views. Many thanks, Anabel and 🤗💟

    Like

  28. Wow, what stunning walks. I love so much about these, especially the stones jutting up from the grass, the cattle, the rocky coastline, and your new “friends!” Oh, and the rare blue skies at the Butt of Lewis. 🙂

    Like