Summer 2022: the rest of the Black Isle
So I did not meet my deadline of writing up my July 2022 travels before the end of July 2023! Having spent far too long on Cromarty where we stayed, I’m fitting the rest of the places that we visited on the Black Isle into one post.
Avoch and Ormond Castle
Avoch is an old fishing village, its history told on information panels beside the picturesque harbour. It’s good that they acknowledge the contribution of the women of the village – I particularly like the sound of Katie Gak!
We found more mosaics, as previously seen in Cromarty, and a US Mail jeep – not sure why!
From Avoch we did a circular walk taking in Ormonde Hill, site of a 12th century castle later destroyed by Oliver Cromwell. Various plaques around the base of the cairn commemorate the raising of the Scottish Standard in 1297 by Andrew de Moray who marched to the support of William Wallace. There were also great views!
The way back took us through farmland (including an airstrip – enlarge the blue sign) and past a house with its own little replica and a handily placed bench. Just before we got back to our own car I spotted a beautiful little Morris Minor. We used to have a version of this as our family car in the late 1960s so I felt quite nostalgic.
This was a very enjoyable 6.5km walk.
Fortrose to Rosemarkie
In Fortrose we spent time looking round what is left of the Cathedral. Built in the late 1200s, it was shut down after the Protestant Reformation of 1560 and little now remains, though generations of local people continued to be buried in the grounds.
A coffee stop brought a surprise at the bottom of the cups! Unfortunately, I didn’t note the café name but looking at Google Maps I think it was Tweedy Pie.
From Fortrose we walked to Chanonry Point hoping to see dolphins, along the beach to Rosemarkie and back along the top of fields with lovely views over our earlier walk (8km). Chanonry Point is apparently the best place on the British coastline to see dolphins: they didn’t oblige that morning but fortunately, as I’ve already related in one of my Cromarty posts, we saw some from a boat later in the week. We did see one on the pavement, a lighthouse, a monument to the Brahan Seer who died a horrific death nearby, and another mosaic.
We walked along the beach to Rosemarkie where John enjoyed poking about in some dank caves while I preferred to admire the beautiful rocks out in the open.
From here we passed through the village to pick up a steep path which took us across fields and back to Fortrose.
Fairy Glen
Another short (3km) walk we did from Rosemarkie was the Fairy Glen – up a wooded path, past an old mill pond to two water falls. Very pretty!
Kirkmichael
And finally – the last place! Last but certainly not least: the small church and graveyard at Kirkmichael is fascinating. The buildings here were on the verge of collapse when they were rescued by the community through the Kirkmichael Trust and have been beautifully restored in recent years. The former nave of the church now holds a display of medieval ornate crosses while outdoors the condition of the memorials is gradually being improved.
Part of the indoor display and entrance to Grants of Ardoch Mausoleum naming Florence Dunbar, first wife of William Grant, who died in 1680.
A good example of restoration.
Lady Ardoch’s mausoleum: Ann Munro (1687-1762) married Alexander Gordon of Ardoch who died nine years before her and is also buried at Kirkmichael, though no memorial has been found. Ann’s was erected by her nephew six years after her death – perhaps because her son had gone bankrupt. Although known locally as Lady Ardoch, she is merely referred to on the tomb as “Mrs Gordon”, not even a first name!
A more modern stone reads Just listening to the curlews – on the other side, it is inscribed to Alan Murray Shilland, 1959-2007, who left behind a wife and two children. It’s sad to see a life cut short like that.
On leaving the graveyard, we took a short circular walk down to Newhall Point and back via the small settlement of Balblair. We came across another mosaic, got good views of the Cromarty Firth with ubiquitous oil rigs and a cruise ship, and admired Ferry House and Ferry Cottage, both pretty buildings.
And it’s a wrap! A mere 13 months after the trip and six months since I started writing about it. Moral: must do better.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
Wow, this looks like a fabulous month, with all these scenic walks, even if it was over a year ago. I love the picture of you on the beach at Rosemarkie. All the mosaics are fabulous, as are the views, especially Chanonry Point and Fortrose Cathedral. And the views in the bottom of your coffee cups as well! Now you have a lot of catching up to do, young lady! 🙂
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Ha ha, I certainly do! I just keep gallivanting too much. Thanks, Cathy.
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Wonderful views! That very much is a surprise at the bottom of your coffee cup! 😀
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It sure was!
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Hi ANABEL!
The US postal jeeps have their steering on the British side of the car/jeep so that they can pop the post into the mailbox. Maybe that’s why someone brought one here?
Excellent story-telling as usual. Xx
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Ah, that makes a lot of sense! Thanks Mardelle.
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I really enjoyed reading about The Black Isle. I’ve never been, but definitely seems like somewhere to get around to.
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Thanks Brenda. It’s well worth a visit.
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I think when I retire, im never going to be home
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You had such great views and some beautiful mosaics as well as the old graveyards. At the cathedral there is a picture of am old man. Above a Doorway…do you know what the significance of this is? Love all the walks you have done and I’d go in the caves with John.
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It’s part of a big family tomb (Mackenzies of Seaforth I think). the old man has a scythe and possibly an hour glass so might be Death? I’m not sure.
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Nice to see some of the inland places on the Black Isle that I didn’t get to see when I walked the coast.
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Yes, I suppose you don’t get much time for cathedrals and such like!
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Looks a great trip. ‘Nothing without the Fishwife’ seems about right. Working, home keeping, child rearing and husband carrying-these women have not been given enough credit. Have you heard of Dolly Peel? She came from a fishing community not far from my home town in the North of England, another fish wife not to be under estimated! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolly_Peel
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I didn’t know of Dolly. Last time we were in South Shields was about 15 years ago, so the statue must have been there though I don’t remember it. I do remember being told as a child not to shout like a Cullercoats fishwife!
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The emerging buffalo is very disconcerting! I like your car nostalgia – I have the same when I see a light blue Ford Anglia (like the Harry Potter car) as we drove around England in one of those when I was ten. Unfortunately ours didn’t fly!
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Our very first car was an Anglia, but dark blue. 823 LPP. That was followed by the Morris Traveller, KVK 275D. I didn’t have to look those up, but don’t ask me for my reg number now!
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Looks as though you got good weather for that trip. Black Isle having a bit of a drought currently due to a recent dry spell and static jet stream but even 30 years ago lost count of the number of rainy west coast mountain trips we did in soaking days long conditions only to come out into sunshine and seemingly days long dry roads motoring back disgusted via the east coast at Black Isle. Like the bull in cups idea, if a bit weird.
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We did get good weather for that leg of the trip. The bulls certainly gave us a bit of a turn!
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What an entertaining post with fantastic images!
That coffee mug was extremely appealing to me. I used to have a mug like this as a kid, with a porcelain bunny at the bottom. Wonderful nostalgia!
https://www.intellectfolks.com/ideas-to-decorate-hallways-in-schools/
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Thank you!
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A lot there to digest, Anabel! What is the joke about Thistle Dubh? Very odd to see a U.S. mail vehicle. Beautiful views, churches and cemeteries. I liked the rocks.
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You don’t pronounce the bh in Dubh. So Thistle Dubh = This’ll do. Dubh means black so it actually makes no sense at all!
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Ha!
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What a fun post with awesome photos!
I especially loved that coffee mug. As a child, I had a similar mug, with a ceramic bunny at the bottom. Great nostalgia!
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Ha ha, I’ve seen ones with pictures at the bottom but not with a head like that. We were as tickled as any child!
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Goodness, that’s the most “interesting” coffee cup I’ve seen. Did you see any fairies at Fairy Glen. A pretty name for a pretty place.
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We did not see any fairies. They must have been hiding!
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😁
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The buffalo at the bottom of the coffee cup has us buffaoed !
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Weird, isn’t it?!
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You had a very full holiday. It has been worth the wait to read all about it and enjoy the pictures.
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Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. Only another 6 trips to catch up on!
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Well, I had a laugh eating my porridge this morning when I read that the fisherwoman carried her husband to his boat so he could keep dry. Imagine doing that now. Funny. I do love fishing villages so many historical stories attached to those places. You certainly picked a lovely spot to enjoy going by the wonderful images you and John took.
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I don’t think that would happen now! Or there would be more dropping in😀.
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There would definitely be more wet men if that tradition was recognised today😄
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Well, this is a perfect post. Lots of walking, lost of history, lots of views … and one truly odd cup of coffee!
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‘lots of history’. So much history is already lost …
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You are so right!
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I can take it at this pace, so don’t try too hard!
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I promise I won’t!
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Hi Anabel – it’s fine … life goes on doesn’t it … and we’ve ‘the news’ c/o of you and John and your walks. I love the coffee cups – what a great idea … or less coffee. Brilliant views – stunning countryside – our little island has some lovely places and delightful history – cheers Hilary
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Thanks Hilary, it certainly does!
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Love your images of Avoch harbour, the Black Isle farmland, Fortrose cathedral… what great trip!
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It certainly was! We enjoyed it all.
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Great to hear!
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Looks like you had wonderful weather, Anabel. I admire your perseverance in walking.
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It was good weather most of the time, we were lucky. Walking is the only way I keep fit so I have to persevere!
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I should really take you as a good example!
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Fairy Glen- my kind of place and the mosaics are lovely. It must all seem so very long ago, Anabel. Almost time to go back 🤗💙
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Almost! though we are heading further south later this year.
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The Black isle looks lovely from your posts, with some fascinating characters too.
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Yes, it was a great choice for a few days.
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No matter where you are, you pay attention and see and do a lot. Next time you’re here, though, explore the dank caves!
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No, no, no! Dank caves give me the horrors.
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You found a great area for your holiday. So much to love about this post. The views from your Avoch walk are wonderful.
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It was such a beautiful area. I don’t know why we hadn’t been before, and we’d definitely go again.
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There are so many beautiful areas in Scotland though, you are spoiled for choice. We loved our week in Dumfries and Galloway far too many years ago.
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We are heading there later this year. It’s a much underrated area I think.
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I love quirky boat names and this one made me smile. Katie Gak sounds like my kind of woman, I think I would have dropped the gamekeeper in the water too 🙂 I like the cute bears and the mosaics, especially the hawthorn one.
The surprise in the coffee cups? – very quirky but a good way of giving you less coffee for the price. Favourite views – the Black Isle farmland/airstrip and Avoch from Ormond Castle.
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Thanks Eunice. Your assessment of the coffee cups made me smile. I hadn’t thought of that!
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