Giant’s Causeway

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Runkerry Head from Port Ballintrae

During our stay in Bushmills in April we walked to the Giant’s Causeway, combining two routes from our guidebook. One started from nearby Port Ballintrae so, in the interests of completeness, we made sure to walk to it too the following day – see above.

The Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprising 40,000 basalt columns left by volcanic eruptions 60 million years ago. It has been a tourist attraction for many years and today can be reached by a small train from Bushmills, established in 2002. This replaced an earlier tramway which ran from the 1880s to 1949 – powered by the River Bush, it was the world’s first public hydro-electric tramway. Needless to say, we spurned the railway but our walk did start at the small station.

Bushmills Station
For your own safety please keep off the railway

We walked alongside the track until we crossed the River Bush when coastal views opened up. Below we are walking above Bushfoot Strand looking back to Port Ballintrae.

River Bush
Bushfoot Strand

When we came to Runkerry Head we turned left and walked around it, passing Runkerry House (1885), until we came to the Giant’s Causeway Visitor’s Centre.

Runkerry Head and Rrunkerry House
Runkerry House
Looking back to Port Ballintrae
Looking towards the Causeway and the rest of our walk
Memorial to airmen who died in 1942
Sea stack
Reaching the World Heritage Site
Attractive benches

Had we not been members of the National Trust, and thus able to get in free, we probably wouldn’t have bothered with the Visitor Centre. However, it was a handy sandwich stop before heading down to the Causeway. Legend has it that the Irish giant Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn McCool) built the causeway when challenged to a fight by a Scottish giant, Benandonner. There are similar basalt columns originating from the same lava flow at Fingal’s Cave on the Scottish island of Staffa which no doubt form the basis for the story.

As usual with any attraction, the area near the visitor centre and car park was busy, but we soon lost most people – especially when we started to climb.

Giant’s Causeway
Giant’s Causeway
Giant’s Causeway
Giant’s Causeway
Giant’s Causeway

We zig-zagged up the cliff face and walked as far as Hamilton’s Seat where we turned to make our way back to the Visitor Centre. The spot where I have snapped John taking a photograph is the site of a shipwreck in 1588 – La Girona, a warship of the Spanish Armada went down with the loss of all but 9 of a crew of 1300. It was explored in the 1960s and jewellery and coins recovered.

Causeway Coast
Causeway Coast
Causeway Coast
Causeway Coast
Causeway Coast
Causeway Coast
Shipwreck site
Causeway Coast
Causeway Coast
Causeway Coast

As we made our way to the railway to follow the track back to Bushmills we passed the Causeway School Museum. The school operated from 1915-1962 and is notable for being designed by Clough Williams-Ellis who also built the picturesque and unique village of Portmeirion in Wales. It reopened as a museum in the 1980s, but now seems to have been closed for about 10 years. When almost back in Bushmills we met the train – broken down, so I’m glad we hadn’t been relying on it.

Causeway School Museum
Bushmills Railway
Bushmills Railway

This was a lovely undulating walk of about 12 miles which we both enjoyed. However, I was slightly disappointed in the Causeway – I expected it to be on a similar scale to Fingal’s Cave and it just isn’t. We’ve been to the cave twice, but both visits were back in the 90s, so any photographs will be in the loft somewhere. Instead, here’s one from Wikimedia Commons for comparison. I think Scotland wins hands down.

Fingal's Cave, Staffa - geograph.org.uk - 5849368
Fingal’s Cave, Staffa by James T M Towill, CC BY-SA 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Fingal’s Cave also has the distinction of inspiring Mendelssohn to write his Hebrides Overture. I rest my case!

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk.

Northern Ireland, UK , , ,

72 Comments »

  1. I’ve never been to Fingal’s Cave and I’m willing to believe I’ve missed a gem, but better than the Giant’s Causeway? I’ll have to take your word for it. The Causeway was one of the marvels that first set me alight as a child and although it must be nearly 30 years since my last visit, I still remember it with great fondness.

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  4. I’ve always had the impression that the Giant’s Causeway is much bigger than it seems to be so I think I would have been a bit disappointed with the reality too. I love the views, especially the River Bush, Bushmills Strand and Runkerry Head 🙂

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  6. Oh how parochial!! It suggests a little basalt oneupwomanship which I wouldn’t have associated with you!!! But you had the most splendid day didn’t you!!

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  7. I am sorry that you were slightly disappointed by the causeway, but i am also pleased in a way. It has lessened the the angst I feel at not having ever been there.

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  8. I’d love to see it because of its unique style but it is …rock.lol I guess, like me, I’ve seen the Falls many times that I’m not wowed by it. I’d love to see Fingals Cave and always think of that beautiful music inspired by it.

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  11. Hi Anabel – gosh … I’d always wanted to visit the Giant’s Causeway – I’m unlikely to do so, but seems I didn’t miss much – though Fingal’s cave is a placed I’d love to visit too – oh well in my next life! Beautiful photos – cheers Hilary

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  12. What perfect weather for walking Anabel and such lovely scenery. We have a miniature version of those granite outcrops it’s an hours drive away and called Fingal. No spectacular walk to ours though.

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  14. Beautiful. I had not previously seen so many views of the area. Twelve miles seems like a big day to me! But you guys walk so much it must not seem quite so strenuous.

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  17. I’ve always wanted to see the Giant’s Causeway, it’s a shame you were slightly disappointed by it. But if I ever make it, at least I’ll know to lower my expectations! The surrounding coastline is beautiful.

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  20. I have seen Fingal’s Cave but always wanted to visit the Giant’s Causeway too – a shame you found it a bit disappointing in comparison! Great coastal scenery nevertheless 🙂

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  21. Oh! The Causeway has long been on my Must Visit list, so it’s disappointing to learn that you were disappointed. But it still looks a worthwhile day out, one way or another.

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  22. Those giants, eh, always chucking things about. Usually rocks. I must confess that I never realised the causeway was such I high cliff. Perhaps I have never seen it photographed from that angle. Impressive, but looks like an ankle twister to me!

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  24. It is a lovely stretch of coastline but I was amazed how busy it was, hundreds of other walkers and dozens of tour buses parked in the car park when we’d already visited equally impressive cliff scenery elsewhere in Ireland without a soul there. I felt the same about Skye though… 30 years ago it was just the right numbers of tourists… now it’s like an ant’s nest poked with a stick every summer. I prefer quiet places away from the crowds. Bob. BSS.

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  25. What a fabulous walk, Anabel! I had no idea you could get there by rail but the scenery is glorious walking the coast. One I’d like to do so thanks a lot for linking 🤗🩵

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  26. I walked the Causeway Coastal Way which is about a 30 miles or so walk along that part of the coast about 5 years ago and it was lovely. Of course I stopped at the causeway. Having not been to Fingal’s Cave I thought it was very impressive. I hope to get to Fingal’s Cave one day!

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  27. What a gorgeous coastline. Those rock formations look very similar to ones on the West Coast, South Is in NZ.
    Weren’t you fortunate with the weather, making walking more pleasurable.
    Ireland is fascinating and I wish we had spent more time there though it was expensive to spend weeks there.

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