Kinneil and Bo’ness
Look at the beautiful building above. Can you imagine that Kinneil House was almost torn down in the 1930s? For centuries, it belonged to the Dukes of Hamilton, but when it was sold to the local council they started on this dreadful act of vandalism. Fortunately, they had the sense to stop when they discovered under the plasterwork some impressive Renaissance wall paintings, said to be the best in Scotland if not the UK. Today, the house is managed by Historic Scotland which, along with the Friends of Kinneil, organises regular open days. We went along this weekend.
The most impressive thing is, of course, the paintings. You can view them in the Arbor Room and the Parable Room (so-called because the story of the Good Samaritan is illustrated there) and there are isolated panels on view in the museum room. Here are some examples.
The Hamiltons didn’t always live in the house – sometimes they had tenants, including John Roebuck, one-time business partner and sponsor of James Watt. The ruins of the workshop he built for Watt to work on his steam engines are still behind the house.
Kinneil was at one time a thriving village, but all that is left of it is another ruin – the church. Other than that, there’s just a big field and a few traces of even older occupation – a Roman fortlet from the Antonine Wall.
Before we left Kinneil we took a few photos of the mini-Kelpies. The “real” Kelpies are a recently opened artwork (in nearby Falkirk) which tower over the M9. These are still big enough to be impressive.
As Kinneil declined, the neighbouring town of Bo’ness (Borrowstounness) grew. We stopped off there to view the Bridgeness Slab, a replica of one of the best Roman finds in Britain. The original once formed part of the Antonine Wall and was discovered in Bo’ness in 1868. Nearby was the attractive Bridgeness Tower, the remains of a windmill built in 1750 but now a private residence, and Kinningars Doocot (dovecote) which started life as an engine house for a pump to remove water from mines on the Grange Estate. It was converted in the early 19th century when coal supplies were more or less exhausted.
Not far away were Carriden Parish Church and Old Carriden Church. The latter is now a ruin but the graveyard is interesting. It includes a memorial to the above-mentioned John Roebuck, James Watt’s partner, which wasn’t particularly photogenic – I was much more taken with the little angel adorning the grave of Annie Stevenson. I thought it would be Victorian, but it’s newer than it looks – Annie died in 1940. I also liked the way that a garden has been made inside the roofless church.
This was a lovely day out – I knew about Kinneil House and remember visiting in the 80s, but I had no idea there was so much other history in the area. Obviously, I still have a lot to learn about Scotland even after half a lifetime here.
Kinneil House is beautiful, and those kelpies are really interesting! We were around that area when we were there — in Bannockburn, Stirling, and Dunfermline. It’ll be on the list if we ever go back.
All good places! Kinneil is not open very often unfortunately, it doesn’t have regular hours they just have special Open Days a few times a year.
This is all so fascinating. The wall paintings, the grave yard, the kelpies. Such beautiful pictures!
Thank you. I live in a wonderful place!
This is so beautiful-Love the horse sculptures. I am glad they didn’t tear the house down. Isn’t it a shame that this happened so much. The developers(I somethimes think they could be portrayed as evil in some book) often tried to get the rights to tear down so many beautiful homes. They tried with the famous homes in Rhode island. They have often succeeded unfortunately. Love the old cemetery and love walking through them. I wonder if the girl died due to a bomb since she died in 1940?? Or was it just an illness. I am assuming she was young. Love that the church has a garden in it. LOVE the art work-glad it is preserved
Thanks! Actually, Annie seems to have been a woman in her 50s which makes the angel even more incongruous. I used to think people who liked visiting graveyards were weird, but now I love it and spend time wondering about the people under the slabs. I agree about developers – I’ve seen some of the houses in Rhode Island and pulling them down would have been criminal.
Thanks for sharing all those pics of historic buildings and angels and horses. We don’t have a lot of old historic buildings where I live!
We have a lot – but as you can see, I keep discovering more!