The Birks of Aberfeldy (and other walks)

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Breadalbane Stag

The Birks of Aberfeldy

Between Christmas and New Year we spent three nights in Aberfeldy in Highland Perthshire. The Birks (birch trees) of Aberfeldy is a famous walk, and also the subject of a Robert Burns song, a few words of which you can just about make out on the Breadalbane Stag above (Breadalbane being the name of the wider area).

The walk itself is a steep climb up one side of the Moness Burn and down the other. It’s the third time we’ve done it, the first being at a similar time of year in 2009, but with much more snow. Check out the two photos of Burns’ statue to see the difference! This year Rabbie, like the stag, has been decorated for Christmas.

2009
2017

I actually preferred walking on the deeper snow – it was more stable. In 2017, a thin covering of snow, followed by rain which froze overnight, meant we slithered up and down to the Falls of Moness. Again, compare and contrast – in 2009 the Falls are frozen.

2009
2017

Black Spout

Another circular walk starts in Pitlochry, taking you past Black Spout waterfall and the Edradour Distillery (sadly, closed to visitors in the winter – a warming dram would have been nice).

Black Spout
Edradour Distillery

Falls of Acharn

Yet another waterfall, this time above Loch Tay. Again, we slithered up one side of a gorge and down the other. The Falls are seen by walking through a so-called “Hermit’s Cave”, in reality an artificial structure built in the 1760s by the 3rd Earl of Breadalbane in order to conceal the view until the last minute. Some of these pictures look almost black and white but they are definitely in colour!

Hermit’s Cave
Hermit’s Cave
Falls of Acharn
Viewing balcony
Falls of Acharn
Viewing platform

River Tay at Kenmore

Kenmore Hotel

No waterfalls in this walk! Kenmore is a model village built by the Lairds of Breadalbane. After lunch in the Kenmore Hotel, which dates from 1572, we walked downhill past Taymouth Castle gates.

Taymouth Castle gates
Taymouth Castle gates

Crossing the bridge over the Tay, we could see the back of the hotel, with its modern extension, on the other bank.

Bridge over the Tay
Kenmore Hotel from river

We walked along the river as far as a Gothic folly named Maxwell’s Temple, built by Lord Breadalbane in 1831 as a tribute to his wife Mary.

Maxwell’s Tower
Maxwell’s Tower

Returning through the village, we passed the church, white timbered cottages built by the 3rd Earl in 1760, and the Post Office which still advertises itself as a Telegraph Office (zoom in above door).

Kenmore Church
Kenmore Post Office
Kenmore cottages

Aberfeldy

Should you ever need to visit Aberfeldy, we can recommend the Townhouse Hotel: comfortable rooms, a great breakfast and pleasant staff.

Townhouse Hotel, Aberfeldy
Townhouse Hotel, Aberfeldy
Townhouse Hotel, Aberfeldy

We ate in the hotel the first night and set out to explore on the other two – not that we got far: The Three Lemons was just across the road. We had a lovely dinner on night 2 but liked the look of the pizzas on the next table so much that we went back on night 3 to try them. Delicious!

Three Lemons, Aberfeldy
Three Lemons, Aberfeldy

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walks, which this week comes from Lisbon and is a much sunnier prospect than Aberfeldy.

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80 Comments »

  1. Pingback: Jo’s Monday walk : Hetton Lyons Country Park | restlessjo

  2. I’m always impressed how hardy you two are, going out on walks in such challenging weather! I love Maxwell’s Tower and the picture of the viewing platform, as well as the white trees in the Falls of Acharn. Good for you for getting out in the midst of winter. My tendency is to never want to leave the house, even though I hate summer and say I love the cold. 🙂

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  3. Brrrrrr! Beautiful walk but golly it looks cold. Not sure I could handle that – yesterday on our walk I was in short sleeves and capri trousers – perfect winter walk!

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  7. Hi Anabel – those are great compare and contrast photos – loved seeing them … guess you’ll be able to add in 2018 – except you won’t be able to travel there at the moment. Fabulous sounding walks and places to visit – then good food – always helps and that dram or two … cheers Hilary

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  8. I really like that stag, and the way all the text and fishes have been incorporated into the design! Kingston upon Thames’s crest has three salmon and a couple of stags, and since I’m supposed to awkwardly fit it in somewhere on all the merchandise I have made for the museum shop, it would be nice if I had a more streamlined version like this that I could use!

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  9. Every year – when my father was alive – we spent our summer holidays at Lochearnhead. That was our base for wandering around Perthshire. Interesting, my Uncle Stirling’s song was always “The Rose o” Aberfeldy”.. Great post Anabel, lurved the snow. Will probably keep coming back to this and looking over it when it gets a tad warm here :o) that and some seriously chilled Irn Bru.

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  11. Looks like a nice walk but I think I’d rather do it on a sunny spring or summer day, I wouldn’t fancy all that slipping and sliding in the snow : ( The Kenmore Hotel looks nice, and I can imagine those cottages look really pretty on a sunny day.

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  13. Lovely – even in winter, or maybe, especially so. Shame about the distillery though. I think I did that walk one summer – it looks familiar although I don’t remember the waterfall. Either that or we did part of it when we had an exceedingly long walk to the start for one orienteering event when the Scottish Six Days was based at Aberfeldy. I’m talking decades ago when I did it!

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  14. The scenery is gorgeous, Anabel. So Christmassy! I agree that many of the photos look like they were taken in black and white — stunning!

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  15. Not been up that way for years. Kenmore is a nice wee place. Pretty adventurous walking for winter as I remember climbing up them in Spring and being impressed by the falls.

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  19. Oh, I have such a weakness for waterfalls of any shape and size! … and then you’ve tossed in archways, bridges, towers, and a deer. In other words, this has all the elements of a perfect outing!
    The frosting on the trees proves that winter hiking really is quite beautiful. Yes, it’s a bit more challenging, but in my opinion, worth the effort.

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  20. Anabel, I liked your idea of comparing the revisit, fun idea. The snow and sun is preferrable to cloudy and drizzle as it seems so much colder. At the moment it means we have to walk faster 🙂

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  21. Many of these places I have seen for myself! Yay! But I must admit to preferring my walks in the sunshine of a quite balmy September to these snow and ice ones. Though they do portray a lovely Christmassy atmosphere 🙂

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  22. Very interesting to read, Anabel. I feel a little embarrassed for staying inside for most of the winter. You guys are brave!
    I, too, appreciate you and Jo’s Monday walk. (I know I said that before 😉 They are particularly fun to read in these cold days 😉
    Have a wonderful week.

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  23. I feel I really know your area now as your detailed Posts contain so much factual information. Love ’em. I think someone should put some warm boots on Burns’ fee. It made me feel so cold to see his very inadequate footwear for the walk!

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  26. That’s an area I know quite well and have many fond memories of. I don’t think I ever did the treks in snow, however. We had a penny wedding as undergraduates and our honeymoon (my Granddad’s gift to us) was based in Pitlochry. It’s a shame you couldn’t visit Edradour as it’s a sweet wee distillery and it looks like a dram would have been a warming reward for all that icy rambling.

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  28. You are such an intrepid walker 🙂 I probably would have stayed tucked up in a cozy inn with a large cup of cocoa waiting for the walkers to come back and tell me about their adventures 🙂

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  29. This has to be one of my favourite virtual walks Anabel. It’s a beautiful part of the world anyway, and quite magnificent in its winter coat. I am full of admiration for you both tackling slippery paths — and surviving unscathed. 🙂

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  30. Hi Anabel,
    I enjoyed the comparison photos from the Birks, and marvelled again at the art sculptures that seem to be in all your travels, or maybe you and John just love seeking them out. I’m thankful either way.
    The Kenmore cottages look so desolate, quite the contrast to the inviting warmth of Aberfeldy.

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    • Thanks, Karen. We don’t particularly seek sculptures out – they just seem to be more of a “thing” these days and we keep coming across them! I’m sure the Kenmore cottages will be cosy inside – they do look a bit bleak – white against white – but probably look more inviting in summer.

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  31. I love your beautiful pictures especially the trees covered in snow with the waterfall behind. Interesting to see what it looks like from one year to the next. I got walking sticks! This would help when the trails have ice and it would be tough to walk on. The town looks so welcoming and tha5 hotel looks so nice to stay in.

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  33. 😍 Those three waterfalls were jaw-dropping gorgeous Anabel although navigating the Falls of Moness in the conditions you describe sounds treacherous 😱. Bummer that the distillery was closed to the public in the winter. I think that would be the optimum time to visit.

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  34. I always find your posts so interesting! A few years ago we visited a friend in Pitlochry, It was then we fell in love with Scotland. Pheasants, wild landscape, pubs, homes of former Canadian PM’s, friendly people are just some of the things I remember. Your posts bring this all back. Thanks for sharing!

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  35. If it wasn’t so early in the day I’d probably be reaching for the brandy, Anabel! 🙂 🙂 Not every day you see a frozen waterfall. I start with enthusiasm in snow but it soon palls and if it’s bad under foot it’s pure misery. But thanks for joining me 🙂 The sun is half peaking out here. You never know… and I enjoyed Rafa.

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