A walk round Utrecht

84 Comments

The second day trip we took from Amsterdam last year was to Utrecht. Again, it was an easy train journey to a lovely historic city, by far the oldest we’ve seen in the Netherlands – it dates back to a Roman Fort built around 50 AD.

Instead of a walking map as in Haarlem, this time we had a little booklet with photographs of the main sights, so I might do a better job at identifying the buildings we saw. To start with, here are the medieval city castles of Oudaen (c. 1276) and Drakenburg (11th C) which face each other across the Oudegracht. It was much later in the day when we got round to Drakenburg, probably the oldest brick house in Utrecht, but I’ve included all the pictures here.

Oudaen
Oudaen
Drakenburg and Oudaen

The first Dutch department store, with the unlikely name of Winkel van Sinkel, dates from 1837 and has four huge classical Greek statues as pillars. Again, I’ve included a picture as we passed it in the morning and a shot from later in the day.

We were heading for the Dom, or cathedral, which wasn’t very difficult as you can see. Just look for the tower! Although, at this time it was trying to hide in the mist.

Dom Tower
Dom Tower
Dom Tower

We were surprised when we got there to find a large open square, the Domplein, between the tower and the rest of the cathedral – it has been this way since the nave was destroyed by a tornado in 1674! We spent sometime looking around inside what was left of the church: this was December 1st, hence the nativity scene (by Dick Bruna – more of him later).

Dom – painting
Dom – Bruna Nativity
Dom – stained glass
Dom – decorative panels

Next to the Dom is the Academiegebouw, richly decorated home of Utrecht University:

Academiegebouw
Academiegebouw

And next to that, is the entrance to the peaceful Pandhof:

Pandhof
Pandhof

We now had a choice before moving away from the Dom. We could either climb the tower or go underground, but we didn’t have time to do both. We decided we’d been up many cathedral towers so exploring underground was the better bet. Just time to have lunch and a warm up, before setting off on the tour!

DOMunder takes you underneath the Domplein through the huge pillar foundations of the cathedral where archaeological finds dating back to the Romans are displayed. An interactive flashlight brings history to life, including “experiencing” the destructive tornado of 1674. No photography was allowed, so do follow the link at the beginning of the paragraph if you want to know more. It’s very good, especially as an English-speaking guide was provided for us as the only non-Dutch people on the tour. This guide was the only person in the whole week we were in the Netherlands who mentioned Brexit to us – in disapproving tones: “So. You are still doing Brexit?”  I was quick to point out that we were from Scotland where over 60% of those who voted chose Remain, but it seemed to cut little ice.

After our tour, we resumed our walk. The house with the turret was built around 1400 for a canon of the Dom chapter but is now used by the university. The red and white house was built by order of Pope Adrian VI (1459-1529) who was born in Utrecht, but he never lived there. The statue is of him. The French Baroque black door is a former Mayor’s house, and the other two images in the gallery below are just pretty street scenes that I like.

Cloistral house c1400
Paushuize 16C
Pope Adrain VI
De Truttige Tuijl
Canal scene
Quaint street

Next stop, the park at Lepelenburg where Dick Bruna strikes again – John was rather taken with this urinal, but I wouldn’t let him use it!

Onwards! So many more lovely buildings – hover over the gallery for captions, or click on any picture for a slide show. I’m running out of words!

Bruntskameren
Art nouveau building (1901)on Nieuwegracht
Almshouses (1651)
Almshouses (1651)
Renswoude Foundation
Nicolaikerk
Bartholomeus Gasthuis
Pandhuis (medieval granary)
19C house in Jacobsgasthuissteeg with pilgrim statue
Pilgrim on the way to Santiago de Compostela
Springhaver Theatre
Conservatoire (formerly 19C hospital for men)

We’ve already come across Dick Bruna a couple of times. This well-loved children’s writer and illustrator was born in Utrecht in 1927, and died there in 2017. Outside the Conservatoire, the last building in the gallery above, we came face to face with Bruna and Miffy, his best known character. We’d already passed the Miffy Museum – I wish I’d taken my hat off for that photo, but it was COLD! I think the tributes are all rather sweet.

Miffy Museum
Miffy and Dick Bruna
Miffy and Dick Bruna

Home stretch now! The light was fading as we came back round to the Dom (where the tower had now emerged from the mist) and made our way to the station.

Huis Zoudenbalch
Jugendstil facade, Oudegracht
Dom Tower
De Beurs, Neude
Night canal view
Film theatre
Metal house – some modern architecture
Ganzenmarkt Tunnel

This was our last night in Amsterdam, but we’ll soon be back. Our friends that we travel with each May have only made one brief visit to Amsterdam. They saw some of our photos and suggested we went there together, and John and I could act as tour guides! I can’t wait – not least because in May I shouldn’t need my woolly hat …

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk – today she’s in South Shields, somewhere I knew well in childhood, where she discovers a Roman Fort.

Netherlands ,

84 Comments »

    • Thanks for visiting! Amsterdam is surrounded by cities which could be regarded as mini-Amsterdams – just as beautiful and based round canals, but much less busy,

      Like

  2. Pingback: Jo’s Monday walk : Bede’s World | restlessjo

  5. Lovely impressions from Utrecht, Anabel. All your beautiful photos brings back happy memories from our trip through the Netherlands five years ago. We started in Utrecht and enjoyed it very much. Wishing you a lovely evening. x

    Like

  6. The name Winkel van Sinkel is cracking me up. I love it, and the statues. Shame the guide had to make a comment about Brexit, though I do understand the annoyance (I’m certainly annoyed myself), but it would still be a little awkward having to walk around with them for a while afterwards.

    Liked by 1 person

  11. Another fabulous walk Anabel even it was rather cold. Such beautiful buildings and so much history can see why you’ll go back. I used to love the Dick Bruna books and Miffy – the illustrations were so lovely. I had them when I was a child! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  12. Love looking at the great pictures you have here and that dept. store name makes me think Mel Brooks had a hand in giving it its name:) Mel might be that old..haha. The Dom looks crooked or is that just me but it looks like it is leaning. I’d love to go back there and can’t wait to hear more about your trip once you come back with your friends.

    Like

  16. Another visit, not too far away either – how exciting! I’ll be looking forward to more lovely posts. My girls loved Dick Bruna books, and especially Miffy, when they were little. How nice to see his home town. Thanks, Anabel.

    Liked by 1 person

  18. Hi Anabel – obviously an excellent place to visit .. preferably not in the depths of winter – so enjoy your next visit anytime soon – cheers Hilary

    Liked by 1 person

  19. With a building named “Winkel van Sinkel”, you would definitely need to stop by.
    I am glad that John resisted the temptation to use the urinal.

    Liked by 1 person

  22. Thanks for taking me there, Anabel. I’ve never been to Utrecht myself, only passed by this city on my way to the Loosdrechtse Plassen for sailing.
    Have a wonderful week,
    Pit

    Liked by 1 person

  23. That’s an in-depth tour of Utrecht! I’ve only strolled through the city a couple of times and enjoyed the area along the canal. The Winkel van Sinkel. I love it. So simple (The Shop of Sinkel). Nice prospects for May, I see. 🙂

    Like

    • It’s a really pretty place, Liesbet. And, yes, it’s amazing how quickly May is approaching. I really wanted to get last year’s Amsterdam trip fully blogged before the next one. Made it!

      Like

  24. I wouldn’t bet on not needing a woolley hat in Amsterdam in May. I needed one yesterday on the Isle of Wight. Sunshine coming from everywhere but oh, that icy wind just keeps on finding its way to make me feel uncomfortable. Great post and, as usual, excellent illustrations. Don’t you just love the rail system in Holland.

    Like

  25. I went to Utrecht once, but only by mistake since I got on the wrong train at Amsterdam Schipol airport. I wanted to go to Amsterdam, but got on the train to Utrech instead! Perhaps I should have had a look around. since it looks rather nice.

    Like

  26. A great walk round a city with some great architecture. I love the little nativity scene and the Miffy characters, and the stained glass windows are beautiful 🙂

    Like

  27. What regal buildings all around, and I love Bruna and Miffy. I like the story about Brexit too! I’m sure you look forward to taking your friends back and playing tour guide. You’ll be able to see it all afresh! 🙂

    Like

  28. I love a good mooch round, Anabel, and I’m irresistibly drawn to Winkel van Sinkel. Superb name 🙂 🙂 It all looks rather lovely as evening falls. Thanks so much for another link up.

    Like

  30. What a delightful tour you’ve given us! … as opposed to my mother in 1974 who wouldn’t let me go to Utrecht because it was a dirty, old city. Sigh.

    You managed to pack in a lot of stuff in one day. I haven’t been back to the Netherlands since that visit with family back in the mid 70s. This really makes me want to go back for a re-do 🙂

    Like

  31. Utrecht looks like a magical sort of place to me because of all of the ornate carving contrasted to the whimsical Bruna. And if’s there automata as Jemima mentions? Well, that would make it complete. When you go next month will you visit the clock and musical box museum for us please? I’d love to see some photos and hear about that.

    Liked by 1 person

  32. It;s a very long time since I visited Utrecht, but all I really remember is plenty of atmosphere and the clock and musical box museum. It had all sorts from automata to fairground organs. Must go back one day!

    Like

    • That sounds interesting! For a day trip we just allow ourselves one museum and the rest wandering – unless, of course, it’s absolutely pouring. All of these smaller cities round Amsterdam would repay a few days stay I think.

      Liked by 1 person