2 Sundays 2 Sails

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Four Glasgow icons: the Riverside Museum, the Armadillo, the Tall Ship and the Squinty Bridge

Doon the watter

For generations, families packed their bags for Glasgow Fair, the fortnight in July when all the factories closed, and took a boat doon the watter to one of the Clyde resorts for their holidays. The Waverley is a relic of those days – the last seagoing paddle steamer in the world. I hadn’t travelled on her since my childhood until John and I took a day trip down the Firth of Clyde one Sunday this month. As we set off, we left behind the view you see above: all of these Glasgow icons have appeared in the blog at one time or another.

The cruise, to start with, was a mixture of heritage and industry – sometimes both together, as below where the 15th century Newark Castle is almost dwarfed by Ferguson’s Shipyard at Port Glasgow.

We shared the river with other vessels – here a Clyde ferry is waiting at Wemyss (pronounced Weems) Bay.

And when we got into more open water, the view was dominated by the distinctive “sleeping giant” form of Arran.

The skies were quite grey, as you can see, and it was windy and cold on deck. However, fleeces and cagoules dealt with the temperature and we stayed in the open most of the day, only disappearing downstairs for a beer towards the end. That, and a delicious Thai curry on the way home, rounded off a great day out.

From the Firth of Clyde to the Firth of Forth

We enjoyed that trip so much that the following Sunday we headed to the other side of the country to take a trip on the Firth of Forth. We waited for our boat, Maid of the Forth, to come in to the pier at South Queensferry which lies just underneath the Forth Bridge.

Forth Bridge
Maid of the Forth

We sailed under the bridge towards Inchcolm Island, passing several rocky outcrops populated by cormorants (which are doing really well this year, after some lean times).

Forth Bridge
Cormorants

We had 90 minutes ashore to explore the island and its abbey, the earliest parts of which are 12th century. We had booked a tour and our guide, David, was excellent.

Canon David
Inchcolm Abbey

After David left us, we climbed the bell tower (the narrowest spiral staircase I’ve ever been up, followed by a steep ladder) from where we could view the rest of the island, including some Second World War defences. Then we still had time for a quick walk where we saw lots more seabirds.

Inchcolm bell tower
Climbing to the bell tower
Inchcolm from the bell tower
Inchcolm from the bell tower
John on bell tower
Anabel on bell tower
Inchcolm birds

As the boat left, we passed “Inch Gnome” and some very relaxed seals before sailing under all three bridges – 19th century Forth Bridge (rail), 20th century Forth Road Bridge and 21st century Queensferry Crossing.

Inch Gnome
Seals on buoy

On top of the Forth Bridge, we could see the viewing platform we visited last year. It was raining slightly by this time, and most people stayed below (wimps!) leaving me space to get a selfie at the back of the boat

Forth Bridge viewing platform
Forth Road Bridge and Queensferry Crossing
All 3 Forth bridges
Anabel on Maid of the Forth
Forth Road Bridge and Queensferry Crossing

Finally, we returned to South Queensferry. Just opposite where we had parked the car was this lovely Nessie made by local schoolchildren.

South Queensferry
Maid of the Forth
Nessie at South Queensferry

Another fabulous day out! If you’d like to do either of these trips, check the links below for timetables and tickets. Even if you’re not in Scotland you could catch PS Waverley, as she also visits the Bristol Channel, the South Coast, the Thames and the Irish Coast later in the year.

PS Waverley

Maid of the Forth

Scotland, UK , , , , ,

64 Comments »

  1. How lovely to see you both afloat. You are looking absolutely jubilant, especially on the Maid of the Fourth. That “sleeping giant” form of Arran is just magnificent. And I am glad to hear that the cormorants are doing well this year. John’s smies here are as infectious as always..and so is that seal’s on the buoy.

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  3. Having always lived far from the sea, your Scotland and its waters are fascinating. And the bridges, three centuries worth. And, as always, you taught me a new word — cagoules!

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  4. What fun . . . we keep meaning to take a trip on the Waverley, but it is one of those things that I am always forget to book in time. You have though inspired me to get organised this year . . so now looking at Southampton trips in September 🙂

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  7. It’s great messing about in boats (and you didn’t have to paddle those two!)
    Must have been great to be able to see that iconic railway bridge from a different angle

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  8. Cold and windy sounds fabulous right now (though I’m sure I’ll be complaining about it once winter rolls around). I can’t believe how consistently hot this summer has been down south. That Nessie is very sweet looking – she has a bit of a sheepish expression on her face.

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  10. Oh, Anabel- sometimes you make me so totally restless! 🙂 🙂 I haven’t been on either of these trips, both of which I would love, and i have a sense of trickling sand in the hourglass. 😦 Thanks for sharing!

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  13. Great post and trips. They have certainly put a lot of new investment into Ferguson’s yard buildings. Hardly recognised the place. The Firth of Forth islands are really special. Totally different feel to the west coast ones as it hardly rains out there so a more desert like landscape.

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  14. Both trips looked like great adventures! I had the same question about the distance you drove that Liesbet had. As someone who lives in one corner of the US, heading “to the other side of the country” would certainly take more than just an hour! Despite the gray, it looks like you picked a good day for your trip.

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  15. Both great adventures. Inchcolm is great. Haven’t ever been on the Waverley but have been to Newark Castle and the ever lovely Wemyss Bay railway station. Might need to take to the water again soon!

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  16. The Waverley runs trips from the Isle of Wight at the end of the season, usually to Corfe Castle and Bournemouth, sometimes Great Yarmouth I think. I’ve been on one, very enjoyable but rather crowded. It is nice though, to see the old paddle steamer still chugging away and proving to the naysayers that there is life in the old girl yet. Your trip looks wonderful.

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  17. Hi Anabel – lovely to see both rivers and the tours you made … great idea to do both. Yes – they fixed for us to do a tour on the Waverley out of possibly Bournemouth … I didn’t go – but knew the name. I’d love to do both … lovely selection of photos too … cheers Hilary

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  18. Two wonderful days out on the water, despite the grey weather (less crowds, probably). It looks like you both really enjoy being on boats. The second trip and visit is my favorite. I’m amazed that you managed to do so much on the island and in the abbey during 90 minutes! When you write “we headed to the other side of the country to take a trip on the Firth of Forth”, how long does it take to drive to the other side of the country?

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    • It took about an hour to drive to South Queensferry – though we are still on the River Clyde here, and not quite at the coast. You are never more than 40-50 miles from the sea in Scotland, apparently, and the narrowest part between the Clyde and Forth estuaries is only 25 miles! I had to look that up to answer your question and found the answer very interesting.

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  19. Hi Anabel,
    First it was Jo from the “Restless Jo” blog who made me itch for being on the water again with her posts about the tall ships in Sunderland, and now it is you with your post about exploring/sightseeing from the water! Thanks for this interesting post, and have a great week,
    Pit

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  20. All four icons in the one frame – what more can you ask for? Lovely day out and two great sails. Sadly we didn’t include Inchcolm Abbey on our Abbey Tour before we left Scotland.

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  21. I love taking boat tours, and both of these look like a lot of fun! I don’t know that I’d like climbing that steep staircase followed by the ladder at the top! I would love the walk around the island though. 🙂

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  23. I love these photos! The seal looks like he is posing for the camera. That bridge is so dramatic! Good for you that you climbed all that way as I would not:). That stately Castle is dwarfed by that ugly building..what a shame that it is so close to that castle

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  24. As you’d expect, my favourite photo is of the children’s Nessie. Looks like you had a great time on both trips, Anabel. I love that you matched a boat trip on one side of the country one weekend with one on the other the next. I imagine that would have enhanced both experiences.

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  26. Looks and sounds like a couple of good days out. I’d love to climb the bell tower at the abbey although I wouldn’t sail across open water to do it 😦 The childrens’ colourful Nessie looks great, they did well there 🙂

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