Hebridean Hop 14: Benbecula
Friday 10th August 2018
Benbecula is a small island – eight miles by eight miles – squashed between North and South Uist. It’s generally flat with more loch than rock, but still had plenty to occupy us for a day. We started by climbing the high point – Rueval, at 406 feet not much of a challenge (the higher hills in the distance are on North Uist).
We were followed up by a family of three. You can see the mother and daughter in one of the pictures above, and if you enlarge it you will see that they are wearing skirts. Not ideal hiking garb, but at least they had boots. The father was too close to photograph unobtrusively, but I can report that he was dressed for the city – collar and tie, overcoat and smart leather shoes. As this was a wet, boggy climb I dread to think what state they were in by the end of it!
After marvelling at other people’s odd clothing choices, we headed back to the car and drove off in search of lunch. This we found at yet another of the excellent Hebridean bistros which have sprung up over the last few years – Charlie’s at Bailivanich.
Next stop, Nunton (once site of a convent, hence the name) and the ruins of Teampall Mhoire (Chapel of Mary).
As always, I looked for interesting gravestones. The two below told a sad story of three MacDonald brothers lost too soon, but the information which caught my eye first was that one of them died in Belvidere Hospital in Glasgow. Long-term readers might recall that last year I took part in a historical research / creative writing project about the nurses at the Belvidere around the time of the First World War (The Zombie Ward), so I honed in on this immediately.
Across the road from the chapel was Nunton Steadings, an 18th century farmstead which our guide-book claimed to be a heritage centre, shop and tearoom, but it was no longer functioning as such. An interesting plaque commemorated its history as site of a land raid in 1923 but, in the absence of the heritage centre, I had to look this up later. I found the story on the website of Nunton House Hostel which stands opposite the Steadings.
In the 19th century Benbecula and South Uist were owned by Colonel John Gordon of Cluny, a ruthless landlord who cleared tenants from much of his land, including Nunton Farm, to be replaced by sheep. After the First World War, the government promised to return land to ex-soldiers, a promise which it did not keep, hence the raid after which the farm was split into eight crofts. Nunton House was also divided, the occupant of 4 Nunton being Roderick MacDonald – look back at those gravestones! 4 Nunton is now the hostel and the rest of the house is privately owned.
Our last walk of the day was on the Isle of Flodaigh where we hoped to see seals and otters. On the way, the hills of North Uist were looking particularly beautiful and it was necessary to stop several times to look at them. The central peak is Eaval.
Flodaigh is a tiny islet connected by a suitably tiny causeway to Benbecula. As we walked out to the seal viewing spot we passed a car which will never go again. According to our walking guide it had been pressed into service as a seal information centre, but even this role was now long behind it. And what’s that in the bracken? A sculpture? Or a rusting farm implement? Let me think …
We did see seals, but once again the otters refused to appear.
Despite that, it was a lovely spot to just sit awhile and appreciate the gorgeous colours.
And then – back to our hotel on South Uist after another wonderful day. Could we keep finding beautiful places to visit for the rest of our stay? I’ll leave you to guess till next time.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
It is so very green. I guess the rainy weather in the area would explain that.
Jude
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Yes, we complain about the rain but wouldn’t have the lushness without it.
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I’ve always liked the word Benbecula – no idea why! How odd that the man was walking in city clothes – perhaps they hadn’t been expecting this kind of countryside? 😀
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It has a nice ring to it! I don’t see how anyone can go to the Hebrides and not expect to need outdoor clothes. So bizarre.
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Definitely. Perhaps they are from a group of people who only ever dress formally? Trying to keep up standards… 😀
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Some of those family plots do hint at some very sad stories, don’t they?
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They do indeed.
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I am probably one of those people that makes odd clothing choices (I tend to do any kind of physical activity in Converse, since I don’t actually own hiking boots), but then I only go hiking if someone else is forcing me to, so I don’t want to acquire the appropriate wardrobe, because then I won’t be able to use not having the right clothes as an excuse not to go!
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I think your Converse would have been well and truly trashed on that hill!
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Looks as though you got good weather for it. Another island I’ve never visited but no surprise about the ruthless owner. Even today most of highland Scotland is up for sale to anyone with money and ambitions to run a private kingdom. Like the hill ascent.
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It is starting to change for the better, but not quickly enough. We were very impressed with what the community owned trusts were doing in some areas.
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It’s scandalous the way the islanders (and highlanders) have been treated in the past. Yet another example in your post and from not that long ago either.
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It is. I keep finding more examples, such as the Catholics who were cleared to make way for a Protestant church which we visit in the next post.
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Another most interesting post. Thank you.
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Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
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Love the photos of the hills of North Uist towards the end. How does one pronounce Uist?
And the big photos – it looks like a surreal landscape.
Sounds like some fun adventures!
Peta
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It is quite a strange landscape. Uist is pronounced You-ist.
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Hi, Anabel – It always amazing me what other people wear hiking. This past summer, there was a woman sharing our hiking trail who was literally wearing flimsy high heeled shoes. As was the case with the gentleman you saw wearing a collar and tie, I could not get a picture of the high-heeled hiker without making myself completely obvious. Too bad, it would have been a great photo for my collection!
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I think that’s even worse, with potential damage to ankles. At least only this man’s shoes were at risk.
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Love the seals, and the last two views are gorgeous 🙂
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Aren’t they just!
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The photo on top, can’t remember the name at the moment, but it’s the banner one across the top. Are these leaves really so orange? Is it autumn colours or something I’m missing. Whatever, it is glorious.
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Not sure which one you mean. Do you mean under the words Glasgow Gallivanter, in which case they are quite random?
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My first comment is the post which John is standing beside – what is it – what does it represent? Another excellent post and I took the time to read up on the Nunton Land Raid of 1923. Very interesting. So much for DLG’s “Land fit for Heroes to live in”
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It’s the trig point marking the top of the hill. I think it’s short for triangulation and is used for measurements. Yes, the reality after WW1 was different from the promises.
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It just looks like a wonderful trip – I love that cemetery!
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Thank you, it was!
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Cemeteries are fascinating places. There are so many stories on the headstones. I don’t think I would like to wear a skirt on this walk, it might be a tad chilly on my knees.
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I think they were longer than knee length, which meant the wind would tangle them round their knees 😮
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Brrrr!
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I just had lunch and I can relate too well to the seals just laying like blobs on the rock 😉
A different kind of terrain here – it looks like it would be quite boggy with all those ponds of water. Great photos and thanks for taking us along on a part of the world I’m not likely ever going to see.
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Ha ha, I feel like that too sometimes! Yes, there was definitely a lot of water in Benbecula.
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Hi Anabel – people … extraordinary! But love the photos and the story line … so sad about people dying so young – still it happens today … lovely post = thanks, Hilary
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Thanks Hilary! People are always entertaining.
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Lovely pictures of a spectacular place, the weather looks perfect to climb and hike. Really not sure about hiking in a collar and tie though!
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Some people are inexplicable! It was a beautiful day, and that family contributed to our enjoyment as we speculated on their motives.
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How sad that three sons died so young and also so close together. You have to wonder whether the causes were related.
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I know, these things always have me wondering about the story behind them.
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I also marvel at the way people dress to go hiking. I have seen women in light footwear and even fancy sandals walking up hills with lots of rocks and tree roots. I am not certain I understand why they don’t put proper shoes on their feet. Lovely day with lovely pictures. (Suzanne)
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Crazy! So easy to damage your feet / ankles.
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So w great photos here and wearing skirts? Well might have been more comfortable. The gravestones are sad and I wonder how the one man died..heart attack? Love your walks
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I imagine in the wind the skirts might have been a liability!
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I sort of get going for an impromptu walk when somewhere looks interesting, but I can’t imagine being that dressed up on holiday at all. Having said that though, we once stopped st a beach on the way home from a funeral; that must have looked odd to anyone who saw us.
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Ha ha, I remember once after a funeral looking for a specific cattle grid which marked a road John’s family drove down for picnics when he was young. A man in a dark suit leaping out at a cattle grid is probably odd too! The fact that the women had boots though suggests this walk was a bit more planned than that. It was VERY boggy and I’d have turned back if I thought my good shoes were going to get wrecked!
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I once went to a funeral in a very small, very old rural church, in mid-winter. Afterwards we all had to troop up to the grave site. I think it was the first burial in the graveyard for quite a while and it was very overgrown, despite the fact that sheep and cattle seemed to be grazing there. I was wearing very high heels and remember almost losing my balance during the committal as my heels sank slowly into the mud.
As for your walkers; very strange. I’d have turned back too to protect my shoes.
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I should have gone to that bistro instead of trudging up Ruabhal in the rain!
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Sounds a far better plan to me!
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Great pictures. In fact the one of the seals in the circle top right had me wondering until I realised the optical illusion – I first thought they were dolphins breaching, then realised they were lying on rocks!
I seem to recall going for a walk in a forest when I was on one of my business trips. We’d finished early, and I killed some time before taking my hire car back by stopping for a walk en route. I’d have been in a suit, most likely, although I probably whipped my tights off to stop them getting snagged. I was nowhere near Benbecula though – probably flying back from Inverness after visiting Alness or Elgin.
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I’m sure you didn’t climb a boggy hill in your suit though! I sort of see what you mean about the dolphins.
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I once was overtaken on the snow at the top of Ben Nevis by a Belgium chap in rain coat suit and brogues . I couldn’t see how he stayed upright let alone kept warm! Your family must be related
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Actually, we never heard them speaking, so maybe they were!
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