Hebridean Hop 16: South Uist (3)
Sunday 12th August 2018

On our last day in South Uist, we headed first along a winding B road to Loch Skipport, a picturesque sea loch on the west coast. Strange to think that the ramshackle pier, what’s left of it, was where the Royal Yacht Britannia used to dock.
On the way there and back we were waylaid by curious ponies.
Staying on the B road, we parked at a point where we could pick up the Hebridean Way. The plan was to follow it across the moors to the main road and the east coast machair which we would follow back round to the B road junction, returning along it to the car.
The Hebridean Way here was curious – boardwalks over the wettest bits at either end, but horribly boggy in the middle. Didn’t they have enough money for it to meet up? The loch here is Druidibeag.
As we approached and crossed the main road, the terrain changed to farmland and then machair. The ruin on the small loch is Caisteal Bheagram, a 15th/16th century tower.
A nattily dressed scarecrow and some bale art. You might just be able to make out the military installation on the hill in the background.
Fortunately, we had nothing to fear! Other than the slightly improvised looking bridges.
And the weather. You can probably tell from the pictures that it had been pretty grim all day.
Below is the last photograph we took, timed around 14:30, just before the rain became torrential. We walked up this track to the main road, where we crossed to the B road to walk back to the car in very unpleasant conditions.
Although it was still early, there was nothing for it but to return to the hotel to dry out, and to pack up. The next morning we were heading off for the last island of our Hebridean Hop – Barra.

The landscapes in South Uist just keep on giving. Hard to be ‘gloomy’ walking here. In my opinion, the grey skies of the day enhance them. I ‘oohed’ and ‘ahhed’ at every one.
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Well, it does look very beautiful but I still remember how wet and cold I was!
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I’ll walk in the rain, but not if it’s coming down hard. I think you were wise to retreat to the indoors to dry out.
Jude
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There is only so much cold water down my neck I can take!
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Too bad you didn’t have some bog boots!
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My boots were quite good but, sadly, not quite equal to the task!
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Absolutely gorgeous landscapes.. they just look so painterly and tranquil. And oh those ponies….! Miserable weather aside to me it looks like bliss.
Peta
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Thanks Peta. Miserable weather is something we just have to accept in such areas! And of course, the landscape wouldn’t be as green without it.
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Love the bale faces! I don’t know if they’re supposed to be jack o’lanterns, but that’s kind of what they remind me of. Encountering ponies on a walk isn’t half bad either!
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I was quite intrigued by the bale art and later saw other examples online – it seems to be quite competitive in some places.
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With all of your experience hiking in the rain, you are definitely reading to hike Vancouver Island during their rainy season (which is approximately seven-months long in my humble estimation)!
Wonderful post and photos. I am greatly enjoying this tour.
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7 months! That’s almost Scottish in intensity.
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How on earth did they get a yacht in there? It looks very narrow.
In spite of the miserable weather, it does look very beautiful … although after a while I think I would miss trees.
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It wasn’t as narrow as it perhaps looks – and there must have been a heck of a lot more pier than those few sticks! There are some trees but they tend to be a bit windswept (as were we).
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Yeah – that pier definitely looked a little … sparse!
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Indeed 😊!
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That’s a new walk/cycle route to add to the collection. There can’t be many parts of Scotland left without a long distance trail running through it. Would be a good one but very exposed in bad weather. My friend cycled through the Hebrides years ago one autumn on the roads and had to walk on two of the days the winds were so severe and unrelenting. Too dangerous to cycle for 48 hours as they were just blown over after a few minutes. I was glad I missed that trip.
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I bet you were! I think we were relatively lucky with the weather – some wet days like this one, but some gorgeous ones. No consistency though, and I’m sure there never is. We were glad always to have the option to retreat to a cosy room mid-afternoon if necessary.
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Not the sort of walk I would enjoy either weather-wise or underfoot but the photos are good and I love the ponies 🙂
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It would have been alright if it hadn’t rained so much! The scenery was beautiful, especially Loch Skipport.
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Someone had fun creating that bale art! As usual, your photos of the scenery are gorgeous. It’s all so green.
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The rain might be a nuisance, bu5 it does make everything green and lush!
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Despite the soggy weather, the island looks very nice. Very bucolic.
On to Barra!
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Barra – and a bit more soggy weather. But some sunshine too!
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Sigh – one of those days when I rarely take photos, therefore leaving myself with a false impression of the climate!
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It can look rather majestic even in bad weather though!
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How many live in this part? That old pier looks so tiny for such a yacht. Although the rains came, you are prepared I bet at least the best one can be. I love these ponies…are the Shetland ponies or are they still too big? I bet the grey one is pregnant just from the shape but they do look well fed. You know if you are ever in that area again, to bring apples:)
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I’m guessing there was probably a lot more pier in those days! South Uist has about 1750 inhabitants altogether – though very few down the Loch Skipport Road. I think the ponies are Eriskay ponies, a native Hebridean breed.
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Hi Anabel – that does look soggy! They probably didn’t anticipate everyone walking all the way round … but useful to have the boardwalk for some of the trip. Lovely views once again – cheers Hilary
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The boardwalk certainly helped but I still got very wet feet!
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I’m truly impressed by your ability to continue your walks in terrible weather – or am I just a pampered southerner? Anyway, I know I would have given up and gone home to a banked up fire and some hot toddy.
Are those wild horses on the moors, or are they local farm horses? If they approached you they could be wild ones expecting a food parcel of some sort as ours in the New Forest do, but if there are not many visitors they wouldn’t be familiar with visitors and probably wouldn’t approach.
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The ponies were roaming quite freely, so I don’t know if they ectually belong to anyone. They weren’t afraid at all – we had to stop the car as they were wandering along the road and didn’t seem inclined to shift of their own accord! I would say definitely expecting food, but they were out of luck.
The weather was drizzly when we set off, or we might not have bothered. But we went to walk, and there really isn’t anything much in the way of indoor activities, so walk we did!
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Wow, you did so much!
Looking Fwd to hearing all about Barra. I regret that we didn’t visit. Your posts are all great tour guides to the Outer Hebrides for sure. X
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You can save Barra up for another time! It’s well worth it.
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Impressed you kept going, I’d have been curled up by a fire with a good book!
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Wasn’t much choice by the time it became torrential! We just had to keep going till we got back to the car.
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At least you weren’t camping, and could dry off on your eventual return!
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The grey pony has a very large tum!
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Maybe expecting a little pony? Or maybe other visitors fed them (as they seemed to expect from us!)
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From my untrained eyes she looks like a mum-to-be.
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Another great and interesting post, with excellent photographs. The weather lived up to expectations. It has been an excellent journey and I have enjoyed it so much. I will be sorry to see it end. Still – Barra – lunch with the MacNeil ( if there is one)
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Well, we had 5 nights on Barra, so still a bit to come! There is a MacNeil and we visited his castle but he wasn’t there for some reason.
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