Hebridean Hop 16: South Uist (3)

Sunday 12th August 2018

Loch Skipport

On our last day in South Uist, we headed first along a winding B road to Loch Skipport, a picturesque sea loch on the west coast. Strange to think that the ramshackle pier, what’s left of it, was where the Royal Yacht Britannia used to dock.

On the way there and back we were waylaid by curious ponies.

Staying on the B road, we parked at a point where we could pick up the Hebridean Way. The plan was to follow it across the moors to the main road and the east coast machair which we would follow back round to the B road junction, returning along it to the car.

The Hebridean Way here was curious – boardwalks over the wettest bits at either end, but horribly boggy in the middle. Didn’t they have enough money for it to meet up? The loch here is Druidibeag.

As we approached and crossed the main road, the terrain changed to farmland and then machair. The ruin on the small loch is Caisteal Bheagram, a 15th/16th century tower.

A nattily dressed scarecrow and some bale art. You might just be able to make out the military installation on the hill in the background.

Fortunately, we had nothing to fear! Other than the slightly improvised looking bridges.

And the weather. You can probably tell from the pictures that it had been pretty grim all day.

Below is the last photograph we took, timed around 14:30, just before the rain became torrential. We walked up this track to the main road, where we crossed to the B road to walk back to the car in very unpleasant conditions.

Although it was still early, there was nothing for it but to return to the hotel to dry out, and to pack up. The next morning we were heading off for the last island of our Hebridean Hop – Barra.

42 Comments »

  1. The landscapes in South Uist just keep on giving. Hard to be ‘gloomy’ walking here. In my opinion, the grey skies of the day enhance them. I ‘oohed’ and ‘ahhed’ at every one.

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  2. With all of your experience hiking in the rain, you are definitely reading to hike Vancouver Island during their rainy season (which is approximately seven-months long in my humble estimation)!
    Wonderful post and photos. I am greatly enjoying this tour.

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  3. That’s a new walk/cycle route to add to the collection. There can’t be many parts of Scotland left without a long distance trail running through it. Would be a good one but very exposed in bad weather. My friend cycled through the Hebrides years ago one autumn on the roads and had to walk on two of the days the winds were so severe and unrelenting. Too dangerous to cycle for 48 hours as they were just blown over after a few minutes. I was glad I missed that trip.

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  4. How many live in this part? That old pier looks so tiny for such a yacht. Although the rains came, you are prepared I bet at least the best one can be. I love these ponies…are the Shetland ponies or are they still too big? I bet the grey one is pregnant just from the shape but they do look well fed. You know if you are ever in that area again, to bring apples:)

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  5. Hi Anabel – that does look soggy! They probably didn’t anticipate everyone walking all the way round … but useful to have the boardwalk for some of the trip. Lovely views once again – cheers Hilary

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  6. I’m truly impressed by your ability to continue your walks in terrible weather – or am I just a pampered southerner? Anyway, I know I would have given up and gone home to a banked up fire and some hot toddy.
    Are those wild horses on the moors, or are they local farm horses? If they approached you they could be wild ones expecting a food parcel of some sort as ours in the New Forest do, but if there are not many visitors they wouldn’t be familiar with visitors and probably wouldn’t approach.

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    • The ponies were roaming quite freely, so I don’t know if they ectually belong to anyone. They weren’t afraid at all – we had to stop the car as they were wandering along the road and didn’t seem inclined to shift of their own accord! I would say definitely expecting food, but they were out of luck.

      The weather was drizzly when we set off, or we might not have bothered. But we went to walk, and there really isn’t anything much in the way of indoor activities, so walk we did!

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  7. Another great and interesting post, with excellent photographs. The weather lived up to expectations. It has been an excellent journey and I have enjoyed it so much. I will be sorry to see it end. Still – Barra – lunch with the MacNeil ( if there is one)

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