A gale in Galloway!

57 Comments
Mull of Galloway Lighthouse

On the first day of our short break in Newton Stewart last December we planned a walk round the Mull of Galloway, Scotland’s most southerly point. Our guidebook describes it as a “dramatic windswept headland” which it certainly is. When we got out of the car at the lighthouse at its tip we could barely stand up. We turned right at the sign above to take a circular route to the lighthouse and made it as far as the first corner which we literally could not turn. We were blown right back.

Mull of Galloway Lighthouse
Breeze?
Foghorn
Mull of Galloway
Mull of Galloway
Mull of Galloway
Mull of Galloway Lighthouse

We managed to get to the lighthouse (built by Robert Stevenson in 1828 and now automated) by a more direct route. I’m not sure that the gallery above gives any impression of how wild it actually was. We were certainly amused by the sign on the small visitor centre inviting us to come in out of the “breeze”.

Back at the car, we abandoned the rest of the walk and decided to head for Portpatrick instead. Plenty of wild sea on show here!

Sea at Portpatrick
Sea at Portpatrick
Sea at Portpatrick

We had lunch and enjoyed a wander round the pretty village. The green house with the quirky outdoor decorations, Smuggler’s Cove, had a donation pot for the upkeep of the harbour which is run by a charitable Community Benefit Society.

Portpatrick
Portpatrick
Portpatrick
Portpatrick
Smuggler’s Cove
Portpatrick
Portpatrick
Portpatrick
Portpatrick
Portpatrick

Daylight was fading as we left, but we made one last call before going back to our hotel, Stranraer. The only other time we have been there was about 30 years ago for what we still remember as the best wedding ever. Although that day’s happy couple has long since divorced, the North West Castle Hotel where the reception was held is still there. At the time, Stranraer was a busy ferry port connecting Scotland with Northern Ireland, but in 2011 this business moved a few miles away to Cairnryan. There’s a lot of desolate space along the waterfront now, though some parts of the port are still in use.

Stranraer Harbour
Stranraer Harbour

The town was decked out in its Christmas decorations. The local crafters had been busy.

Stranraer at Christmas
Stranraer at Christmas
Stranraer at Christmas

The Castle of St. John is a medieval tower house, built around 1500, and the Old Town Hall, built in 1776, now houses the Stranraer Museum.

Castle of St John
Stranraer Museum

We weren’t sure at the time what the rusty structure below was, but subsequent research tells me it is Blind Johnnie’s Monument.  John Alexander played street music on the recorder or his squeeze box, both of which are now in the Museum. He died at the age of 70 in 1905, and when in 2012 Stranraer residents were given their say on which character from the town’s history should be selected for a new piece of artwork they chose him. Opinion is apparently divided but I like it now that I can see what it is.

Blind Johnnie’s Monument
Blind Johnnie’s Monument

By this time it was fully dark and time to head back to Newton Stewart to prepare for dinner. We were cold and ready for some good food and drink!

Scotland, UK , , , ,

57 Comments »

  1. That does look like quite some ‘breeze’. 🙂 Blind Johnnie’s monument and the story behind it brought tears to my eyes, just imagining him playing his music out on the street in all weathers for years on end..

    Like

  2. Fantastic photos, looks like a wonderful visit. Love those windy wave shots in the harbour and the lighthouse ones. Smugglers Cove looks well worth a visit. More and more places in Scotland that we need to get back and visit.

    Like

  3. Loved the photos — especially of the wild sea at Port Patrick and the Orangutan guard over what I took to be a donation bucket. Hope you and John are well and weathering the pandemic.

    Like

  4. Aw, I love the orangutan! Having been in some very windy places myself, I can picture the windiness, and I think you did well to make it to the lighthouse at all. I notice the “come in out of the breeze” sign was painted on the window, since an actual sign probably would have just blown away!

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Love a good wind. The first time i was physically blocked by a wind was when i was about ten and i was blown against a wall. I remember my dad laughing and pulling me up. I was so surprised. Stranraer looks very appealing.

    Like

  12. I have visited the mull of Galloway too in a November. It was pretty ‘ breezy’ then too. 😅 I also remember the green house in portpatrick with its quirky frontage. Think there are a few more sculptures there now though. X

    Like

  13. Wild seas indeed. Mind you, we had something similar yesterday and the night before. After the high-summer of the previous days it was a rude shock. Your usual great images brought this place to life for me.

    Like

  17. A great view overlooking Portpatrick and I like the shot of the waves with the orange sky showing through the clouds. An excellent shot of Stranraer harbour at dusk, the light reflections on the water are lovely 🙂

    Like

  22. Hi Anabel – reminded me of Penzance storms and Lands End … but great tour round you’ve taken us on … Blind John’s accordion sculpture is rather interesting and appropriate … while St John’s Castle looks to have lots of interesting history … wonderful photos thank you – Hilary

    Like