Stirling

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Stirling Castle: Royal Palace from Queen Anne Garden

An excursion to Stirling was one of the few days out we had at the beginning of the year before the torrential rains of February / March and the following months of lockdown. As Stirling Castle reopened on 1st August (pre-booked tickets only) this seems an appropriate time to publish my post about it which has been lingering in drafts for some months. It was a fabulous day, so be prepared for a lot of photographs!

Starting at the castle, we first of all wandered around the outside. The grey building is the Royal Palace and the golden one is the Great Hall. Views from the walls round the Palace are magnificent.

Stirling Castle
Gate
Palace roof
Royal Palace figure
Royal Palace figure
Royal Palace figure
Royal Palace figure
Royal Palace figure
Great Hall
Window and heads
Great Hall roof
Great Hall unicorn
Great Hall roof
Great Hall lion
View from the walls
Canon
King’s Knot
Old Town Cemetery and Holy Rude
Anabel

The first building we went into was the Royal Palace, one of the best-preserved Renaissance buildings in the UK, which has been refurbished to look as it might have done in the 1540s. This includes ceilings with brightly-painted replicas of the Stirling Heads (the originals can be seen in a museum onsite which we didn’t visit this time) and unicorns everywhere. The Hunt of the Unicorn tapestries are also replicas, based on a series created in the Low Countries in the early 1500s which are now in the Metropolitan Museum of New York’s Cloisters. They took 13 years to weave and cost £2 million.

Stirling Castle heads
Unicorn crest
Ceiling with unicorns
Lion rampant crest
Crest
Hunt of the Unicorn tapestry
Hunt of the Unicorn tapestry
Hunt of the Unicorn tapestry
Hunt of the Unicorn tapestry
Hunt of the Unicorn tapestry
Unicorn frieze

It’s not so long since you could watch part of the tapestry being woven in one of the castle’s outlying buildings (they were completed in 2014). Now the same building hosts an exhibition about the weaving process. I learned a lot from the panel of samples shown below, especially the knee samples. The single knee was woven at eight warps per centimetre which matches the 15th century originals. The other two knees are woven at four warps per centimetre, which is the warp count chosen for the replicas. This saved 13 years of production time – how much respect is due to the original weavers? What an achievement.

Tapestry exhibition
Tapestry exhibition

Next, we visited the Chapel Royal, built in 1593-4 on the orders of James VI who wanted somewhere suitable for the baptism of his son and heir, Prince Henry. In 1603 the Union of the Crowns saw James head south to rule from England, and in 1625 he was succeeded by his surviving younger son Charles I. The frieze was painted by Valentine Jenkin in 1628 in the expectation of a coronation visit to Scotland by the new king. He didn’t come.

Chapel Royal
Chapel Royal
Chapel Royal

The Great Hall is the largest banqueting hall ever built in Scotland and was used for feasts, dances and pageants. Completed for James IV in 1503, it has four pairs of tall windows at the dais end, where the king and queen sat, and an impressive Scottish oak triple height ceiling.

Ceiling
Stained glass window
Window detail
Window detail
Window detail
Window detail

Of course, you would not expect us to miss out on a visit, or two, to the Café! Having already had lunch there, we popped back for a cup of tea before venturing out again.

John
Anabel

Suitably fortified , we explored the Old Town Graveyard which lies between the castle and Holy Rude Church. The ladies in the glass case are “Margaret, virgin martyr of the ocean wave, with her like-minded sister Agnes”. These were part of the educational and “improving” atmosphere of Victorian Stirling. Eighteen year old Margaret Wilson was a heroine of the Presbyterian Reformation who was executed by drowning in the Solway Firth for refusing to renounce her Protestant faith.

Holy Rude
Old Town Cemetery
John Macfarlane, Coachman
Metal grave marker
Margaret, Virgin Martyr
Holy Rude and Cowane’s Trust

Shown below are Argyll’s Lodging (pink) and Cowane’s Trust (yellow). The former is a 17th century townhouse which can be visited with a castle entry ticket. Cowane’s Hospital, now run by a charitable trust, is also a 17th-century building. The merchant John Cowane (1570–1633), whose statue adorns the front, left 40,000 merks in his will for the establishment of an almshouse.

Argyll’s Lodging
Cowane’s Trust
Cowane’s Trust

On nearby Broad Street is the Mercat Cross (another unicorn) and Norie’s House. James Norie was a lawyer and town clerk who built his fashionable new house in 1671.  His bewigged head looks down from the top of the roof.

Broad Street
Mercat Cross
Mercat Cross
Norie’s House
Norie’s House

Walking further down into town we came across representations of various historic figures. A howling wolf, here carved from a tree stump, appears on Stirling’s coat of arms. Legend has it that in the 9th century a wolf saved the town by howling in response to a Viking raid. Henry Campbell-Bannerman (1836-1908) was the Member of Parliament for Stirling Burghs for almost 40 years, including a term as Prime Minister from 1905 to 1908. Rob Roy, Robert Burns and William Wallace probably need less of an introduction to anyone interested in Scottish history and literature.

Stirling Wolf
Campbell-Bannerman
Rob Roy
Robert Burns
William Wallace

Our final stop before heading back up to the castle was outside Central Library which opened in 1904 and, like so many others, was funded by Andrew Carnegie.

Central Library
Carnegie library plaque
Info about Carnegie

As we walked back to the car, the sky began to change colour. We rushed up to a vantage point in the Old Town Cemetery from which we watched a spectacular sunset unfold. A perfect end to a perfect day.

Old Town Cemetery at sunset
Stirling sunset
Stirling sunset
Stirling sunset
Stirling sunset
Old Town Cemetery at sunset
Old Town Cemetery at sunset
Stirling sunset
Scotland, UK ,

81 Comments »

  2. Many years ago I had to go to Stirling with work as my then employer had a factory there. I rember the castle but, of course, it was closed in the evening when I had some free time. So now I know what it’s like inside!

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  3. Those tapestries are fab, and I love the little guys along the outside of the castle as well. Was drowning a standard form of execution for heresy in Scotland? I’m very well versed in English methods of execution, but clearly I have a lot to learn about the Scottish justice system!

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    • As usual, you ask very good questions which sent me to Google! Apparently, until the late 17C drowning pools were used to execute women for crimes where men would be hanged, possibly because it was seen as less violent. This doesn’t apply in this case though, because poor Margaret was tied to a stake in the Solway Firth and left to await the tide (we’ve seen the monument where she actually died in Wigtown). I don’t think that was common, but I don’t know for sure. Women accused of witchcraft, of course, were a different matter: if they floated they were guilty, if they drowned they were innocent. But dead anyway.

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      • Ugh, sounds like the same bum deal where women were buried alive in Germany for crimes where a man would have been beheaded, or where women were burned at the stake for petty treason in England because it was “more modest” than being hanged, drawn, and quartered. I don’t know if drowning is better or worse than short drop hanging, since they both would have been prolonged and terrifying, but I’d definitely pick beheading over live burial, though there’s frankly no good options in those scenarios!

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  4. Hi Anabel – I’ve wanted to go since they discovered Sir John Strychly’s bones (d 10 Oct 1341) under the kitchen floor before it was renovated … I loved the BBC’s cold cases back in 2010 or thereabouts … when Sue Black and team from Dundee University’s Centre for Human Identification and Anatomy … chased the records down, scientifically investigating as they went along.

    Your pictures do it much justice – and one day I hope I can get north of border and see Stirling … wonderful to see – stay safe – Hilary

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  5. Beautiful photos of a great city. Stirling is such a brilliant place to visit, history on every corner with so much to see and read. Loved it there although didn’t like the long walk up the hill much! Worth it for the castle.

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  6. What a fascinating tour Anabel- thanks for sharing your photos and for providing such an in depth interpretation. The work of those weavers sounds an incredible task – they must have had gnarled fingers by the end! Such beautiful tapestries 🙂

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  7. Stirling is one of the places I most want to visit the next time I’m around the Edinburgh/Glasgow way, so I loved your post. Your photos are superb and the castle is even more impressive than I thought it would be. Thanks for sharing Annabel 🙂

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  8. Anabel, you have so many fabulous photos in this post that I don’t know where to begin. The castle is a beauty, and especially the great hall inside. Incredible, intricate tapestries. I like the unicorns. The Stirling heads! The sunset!

    Jude

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  9. What a stunning sunset you caught. A beautiful castle. Thanks for the tour. Love all the unicorns and as for the weaving; what a lot of patience and work has gone into those tapestries. 😯

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  14. I was able to visit Stirling Castle almost a full year ago when my family visited Scotland on holiday. What a beautiful place! Your photos are better than mine though, and I imagine it wasn’t nearly as crowded when you were there as it was for me last year. The tapestries in particular took my breath away. Absolutely stunning!

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  15. Some great photos there. Not been in it for a while- an open doors day so free of charge. For its modest size Stirling has a lot in it and it’s compact enough to make a good day out without walking miles between attractions. Like a smaller version of Edinburgh.

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  16. The work that goes into those tapestries is incredible. Full credit to those who made both the originals and the replicas.
    Thank you for continuing to post about your travels. I feel like I’m the only person in the world who has had less time, not more, during lockdown, but I’ve finally caught up on my favourite blogs.

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  17. Stirling looks like quite a place to spend some time in. Love the view from the castle, I could look at that for hours and what a stunning sunset to finish with.

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  18. I do get a bit excited when you feature somewhere I’ve been! When we visited Stirling Castle in August 1999, a big restoration of the Great Hall was almost finished and those wonderful lions and unicorns were standing in the forecourt waiting to be installed on the roof. We were there with our friends whose surname is Douglas. He’s the friend I think I’ve told you before comes from Drymen. We spent a long time in the Douglas Garden having some fun reenacting scenes from the story of the Dead Douglas. 🙂 It was a wonderful day. We have often said we would like to return to Scotland for an extended visit and Stirling is one of the places we would like to explore more.

    Your sunset photos are stunning.

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    • Stirling is one of my favourite places. That must have been the time when they painted the hall ochre, it made such a difference. I don’t think we ever visited during the transition period but we do go a lot. Being Historic Scotland members we get free entrance so could just drop in for half an hour if we felt like it. Not now though, it’s advance bookings for the foreseeable future. The sunset must be one of the best I’ve seen.

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  20. That’s a great shot of you leaning over the parapet Anabel 😀
    I think visiting Stirling Castle was what got my Kiwi-born-and-bred Big T interested in Scottish history and heritage buildings. After that visit, I didn’t have to wheedle for trips to other places.

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  22. It looks like a lovely visit you got in before lockdown there. Stirling looks a good place for a city break. Love the sunset and the howling wolf carving is fab. X

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  24. Really stunningly beautiful place. I’d love to go there. I did recognize a couple of those unicorn tapestries – they’re quite famous. I hadn’t realized that Carnegie also funded libraries outside the U.S.

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    • I have been to the Cloisters so probably saw them too, but it’s so long ago i can’t remember! The very first Carnegie Library was in his birthplace, Dunfermline. Glasgow has half a dozen, including the building which is now Glasgow Women’s Library. It was originally Bridgeton Public Library. I think his libraries were mainly in the US and UK, but elsewhere too. Quite a project!

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  25. Hi. When my wife and I were in Scotland last year, we took a whirlwind one-day bus tour of the Highlands. I think we passed this castle on the way. If we get back to Scotland some day, it will be on our list of places to visit.

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  27. Hi Anabel, Wow! Everything about this post is fascinating and the photos are stunning. My husband and I have just started Season 2 of Outlander and Scotland is part of our nightly escape (fictionalized, of course). I have told you before how Scotland was on our wish list/priority list of travels. Anabel, you continue to reinforce our dreams. The detail in the tapestries is amazing. Like you say, what an achievement for the original weavers. I love the smiles on you and your husband when you are fortified. 🙂

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    • Outlander is both a blessing and a curse! It draws tourists in, which is good, but they all go to the same hotspots, which is not so good. Some are becoming overwhelmed (well, they were before this year anyway). I hope you make it here some day, and will be able to see both Outlander sites and others I have pointed you to. Stirling is not to be missed IMO.

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  28. This is so wondrous. I would love to have been on this walk with you from this palace to this old library. Carnegie knew what to do with his vast wealth. There must be a ton of sculptures around and maybe even a few gargoyles. Enjoy your walks and that sunset is inspiring.

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  30. Wowzers! What a sunset.

    I love coming round the road from Glasgow to turn up towards Inverness and looking over at the castle standing proudly on its rock. An inspiration for several of my Princelings’ castles! I’ve never been inside though, in fact I don’t think I’ve ever been in to Stirling–the travel retailer I worked for didnt have a branch there, probably the only sizeable place in Scotland not covered! I’ve obviously missed a goodie.

    Have you done Perth? I spent many happy days there, but never with enough time to explore 🙂

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  33. So much historical interest here, I love the colourful heads on the castle ceiling and the bright unicorn tapestries, especially the first one. There’s a Hunt of the Unicorn tapestry in one of my local old manor houses-now-museums. I like the view from the castle walls but I think you saved the best till last here – those sunset shots are simply stunning 🙂

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