Giant’s Causeway
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During our stay in Bushmills in April we walked to the Giant’s Causeway, combining two routes from our guidebook. One started from nearby Port Ballintrae so, in the interests of completeness, we made sure to walk to it too the following day – see above.
The Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprising 40,000 basalt columns left by volcanic eruptions 60 million years ago. It has been a tourist attraction for many years and today can be reached by a small train from Bushmills, established in 2002. This replaced an earlier tramway which ran from the 1880s to 1949 – powered by the River Bush, it was the world’s first public hydro-electric tramway. Needless to say, we spurned the railway but our walk did start at the small station.
We walked alongside the track until we crossed the River Bush when coastal views opened up. Below we are walking above Bushfoot Strand looking back to Port Ballintrae.
When we came to Runkerry Head we turned left and walked around it, passing Runkerry House (1885), until we came to the Giant’s Causeway Visitor’s Centre.
Had we not been members of the National Trust, and thus able to get in free, we probably wouldn’t have bothered with the Visitor Centre. However, it was a handy sandwich stop before heading down to the Causeway. Legend has it that the Irish giant Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn McCool) built the causeway when challenged to a fight by a Scottish giant, Benandonner. There are similar basalt columns originating from the same lava flow at Fingal’s Cave on the Scottish island of Staffa which no doubt form the basis for the story.
As usual with any attraction, the area near the visitor centre and car park was busy, but we soon lost most people – especially when we started to climb.
We zig-zagged up the cliff face and walked as far as Hamilton’s Seat where we turned to make our way back to the Visitor Centre. The spot where I have snapped John taking a photograph is the site of a shipwreck in 1588 – La Girona, a warship of the Spanish Armada went down with the loss of all but 9 of a crew of 1300. It was explored in the 1960s and jewellery and coins recovered.
As we made our way to the railway to follow the track back to Bushmills we passed the Causeway School Museum. The school operated from 1915-1962 and is notable for being designed by Clough Williams-Ellis who also built the picturesque and unique village of Portmeirion in Wales. It reopened as a museum in the 1980s, but now seems to have been closed for about 10 years. When almost back in Bushmills we met the train – broken down, so I’m glad we hadn’t been relying on it.
This was a lovely undulating walk of about 12 miles which we both enjoyed. However, I was slightly disappointed in the Causeway – I expected it to be on a similar scale to Fingal’s Cave and it just isn’t. We’ve been to the cave twice, but both visits were back in the 90s, so any photographs will be in the loft somewhere. Instead, here’s one from Wikimedia Commons for comparison. I think Scotland wins hands down.
![Fingal's Cave, Staffa - geograph.org.uk - 5849368](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/49/Fingal%27s_Cave%2C_Staffa_-_geograph.org.uk_-_5849368.jpg/512px-Fingal%27s_Cave%2C_Staffa_-_geograph.org.uk_-_5849368.jpg?20231202022759)
Fingal’s Cave also has the distinction of inspiring Mendelssohn to write his Hebrides Overture. I rest my case!
Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk.
Thanks for the tour. Our stay in Northern Ireland was too short to include the Giant Causeway which was a shame…(Suzanne)
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Yes, it was worth seeing even if not quite as good as I expected.
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Absolutely gorgeous. One day I will visit it. We visited Staffa and loved it.
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I hope you do some day.
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I’ve always had the impression that the Giant’s Causeway is much bigger than it seems to be so I think I would have been a bit disappointed with the reality too. I love the views, especially the River Bush, Bushmills Strand and Runkerry Head 🙂
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That was my impression too – higher, and going further out to sea (though maybe tides had something to do with that).
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This is such a good walk. Stunning pictures.
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Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it.
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Oh how parochial!! It suggests a little basalt oneupwomanship which I wouldn’t have associated with you!!! But you had the most splendid day didn’t you!!
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I merely report the evidence of my eyes!
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I am sorry that you were slightly disappointed by the causeway, but i am also pleased in a way. It has lessened the the angst I feel at not having ever been there.
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Happy to be of service!
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I’d love to see it because of its unique style but it is …rock.lol I guess, like me, I’ve seen the Falls many times that I’m not wowed by it. I’d love to see Fingals Cave and always think of that beautiful music inspired by it.
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The music is certainly lovely.
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I like the Giants Causeway but not the greedy National Trust. Doctor Johnson once said of Giant’s Causeway – “Worth seeing, yes; but not worth going to see.”
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That’s a good way of expressing it! Though it would have been an awful lot more effort for him to get there.
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I imagine so!
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Did you visit the Gobbins Victorian cliff side walk?
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No, we didn’t know about that till we drove past the turning by which time it was too late (think it has to be booked). Another time!
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Worth a visit when you go back.
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Gorgeous 😍 x
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Definitely!
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