Giant’s Causeway

Runkerry Head from Port Ballintrae

During our stay in Bushmills in April we walked to the Giant’s Causeway, combining two routes from our guidebook. One started from nearby Port Ballintrae so, in the interests of completeness, we made sure to walk to it too the following day – see above.

The Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprising 40,000 basalt columns left by volcanic eruptions 60 million years ago. It has been a tourist attraction for many years and today can be reached by a small train from Bushmills, established in 2002. This replaced an earlier tramway which ran from the 1880s to 1949 – powered by the River Bush, it was the world’s first public hydro-electric tramway. Needless to say, we spurned the railway but our walk did start at the small station.

We walked alongside the track until we crossed the River Bush when coastal views opened up. Below we are walking above Bushfoot Strand looking back to Port Ballintrae.

When we came to Runkerry Head we turned left and walked around it, passing Runkerry House (1885), until we came to the Giant’s Causeway Visitor’s Centre.

Had we not been members of the National Trust, and thus able to get in free, we probably wouldn’t have bothered with the Visitor Centre. However, it was a handy sandwich stop before heading down to the Causeway. Legend has it that the Irish giant Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn McCool) built the causeway when challenged to a fight by a Scottish giant, Benandonner. There are similar basalt columns originating from the same lava flow at Fingal’s Cave on the Scottish island of Staffa which no doubt form the basis for the story.

As usual with any attraction, the area near the visitor centre and car park was busy, but we soon lost most people – especially when we started to climb.

We zig-zagged up the cliff face and walked as far as Hamilton’s Seat where we turned to make our way back to the Visitor Centre. The spot where I have snapped John taking a photograph is the site of a shipwreck in 1588 – La Girona, a warship of the Spanish Armada went down with the loss of all but 9 of a crew of 1300. It was explored in the 1960s and jewellery and coins recovered.

As we made our way to the railway to follow the track back to Bushmills we passed the Causeway School Museum. The school operated from 1915-1962 and is notable for being designed by Clough Williams-Ellis who also built the picturesque and unique village of Portmeirion in Wales. It reopened as a museum in the 1980s, but now seems to have been closed for about 10 years. When almost back in Bushmills we met the train – broken down, so I’m glad we hadn’t been relying on it.

This was a lovely undulating walk of about 12 miles which we both enjoyed. However, I was slightly disappointed in the Causeway – I expected it to be on a similar scale to Fingal’s Cave and it just isn’t. We’ve been to the cave twice, but both visits were back in the 90s, so any photographs will be in the loft somewhere. Instead, here’s one from Wikimedia Commons for comparison. I think Scotland wins hands down.

Fingal's Cave, Staffa - geograph.org.uk - 5849368
Fingal’s Cave, Staffa by James T M Towill, CC BY-SA 2.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0&gt;, via Wikimedia Commons

Fingal’s Cave also has the distinction of inspiring Mendelssohn to write his Hebrides Overture. I rest my case!

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk.

70 Comments »

  1. I’ve always had the impression that the Giant’s Causeway is much bigger than it seems to be so I think I would have been a bit disappointed with the reality too. I love the views, especially the River Bush, Bushmills Strand and Runkerry Head 🙂

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  2. I’d love to see it because of its unique style but it is …rock.lol I guess, like me, I’ve seen the Falls many times that I’m not wowed by it. I’d love to see Fingals Cave and always think of that beautiful music inspired by it.

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