Aysgarth and Bolton Castle (2023)

Stow House

The final leg of our June/July 2023 English road trip was spent in Aysgarth in Wensleydale. We found a beautiful bed and breakfast, Stow House, with great views from our bedroom window – and slightly eccentric interior decor.

The B&B didn’t serve evening meals, but there were two other places in the village that did, including the George and Dragon, and we were happy with both.

On our first evening we took a twilight stroll through the village and really liked it.

The following morning, we did our first walk straight from the door: Aysgarth Falls to Bolton Castle, a 12km loop. On the way we popped into the splendidly decorated St Andrew’s Church.

The walk took us past Aysgarth Falls.

Then through fields to the castle.

What’s on offer at Bolton Castle

We enjoyed our visit, including a good lunch in the tea room and an archery display in which John took part.

Before leaving the village of Castle Bolton, we also visited St Oswald’s Church, a much simpler place than St Andrew’s but still lovely.

With the castle behind us, we crossed many more fields with wide views across Wensleydale.

The next village we reached was Carperby and we were certainly ready for those pints! It was a warm afternoon, we deserved them, don’t judge.

From Carperby we continued back to Aysgarth Falls across more fields – though it has to be said, some of the styles were a little superfluous!

This was a lovely walk – sunshine, a castle, a tea room AND a pub! I’m linking it to Jo’s Monday Walk.

We had another two days in Aysgarth, would they be as good? Find out soon.

60 Comments »

  1. Thank goodness all these people have found their way here, Anabel, because I nearly didn’t! There have been pingbacks to yours in the last couple of weeks and they seemed to be to old posts so I thought you must be updating the blog? Apologies if I’ve missed some that I shouldn’t? Wonderful Memory Lane for me here- thanks so much xx

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  2. Another place I’ve not been but it looks good. I only usually go to the Lake District down in England but there’s so much else to see. Can’t see me ever getting there though as all my money these days seems to go on essential bills as soon as I get it. I did drive the North Coast 500 way back in the 1970s for around £20 in petrol which would cost hundreds in fuel today to complete so I’m glad I got around a lot pre internet. Finding paid parking apps in areas is also a pet hate nowadays, not because of the money involved but due to being forced to get a smart phone just to use them. Like the waterfalls. Bob.

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    • Thanks Bob. I don’t think we ever did the entire NC500 in one go, but we’ve done all of it at different times, probably more than once. As you say, in the past it was easier – finding places to stay, parking etc. it’s good for people to appreciate Scotland, but I think the marketing of that got way ahead of the area’s capacity to cope.

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  3. I love the pathways in England but am definitely chuckling about those stiles! I went down a rabbit hole and explored the life of James Herriot. And no judging here- that beer looks perfect after that kind of trek.

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  4. You do have some great places to gallivant! The interior of St. Andrew’s reminded me of a stop on our tour of Croatia. We visited a school where they teach teens the art of stone carving. Some of the pieces were similar to those pictured.

    Of course you deserved your pints! Who would dare judge? We were tickled by the James Herriot plaque (we’re currently watching the new “All Creatures Great and Small” series), but were miffed it was just HIS honeymoon!

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  5. This is a great walk! I love the scenery a d that beautiful church! What are those wooden things in the fields? The beer looks good and you should have a pint

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    • I don’t know if the style has a specific name, but that part is a 15th century carved screen which was brought from another church apparently and so is known as the Jervaulx Screen after its original location. I don’t know either if the bright colouring is authentic given the church was largely rebuilt in Victorian times. it’s certainly lovely!

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  6. I went to Aysgarth Falls about 20 years ago with my partner, we ended up there by accident while out on a country drive. And I’ve always felt cheated because Bolton Castle isn’t here in Bolton! 😉 The decoration in St. Andrews Church looks beautiful and it looks like you deserved those pints.

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