An English interlude 4: Yorkshire Dales

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Tour de France passed through Leyburn 05.07.14

After a detour through a couple of other posts I’m back for the final leg of our English tour earlier this year when we returned to Aysgarth in Wensleydale to the same B&B, Stow House, we had stayed in two years before. On the way we stopped for a cuppa in Leyburn where John was attracted to the cycling sculpture above.

On our first day in Aysgarth we remained creatures of habit by repeating a walk we had done on our previous visit, a circular route taking in Aysgarth Falls and Bolton Castle. We didn’t tour the castle this time, though we did make use of the tearoom for lunch.

Aysgarth Falls
Aysgarth Falls
Walking to Bolton Castle
Bolton Castle
Bolton Castle
Bolton Castle
Wensleydale
Did the wind change direction?
Descending to Caperby

We also stopped in the same pub in Caperby, the Wheatsheaf, on the way back. Last time we sat outdoors in glorious sunshine, but this time it was much duller so no pictures of pints in beer gardens. However, we did find some of the posters in the toilets quite amusing.

Spotted in the Ladies
Spotted in the Gents

On our second day, as mentioned in a previous Gallivanting post, we met up with fellow blogger Margaret in the small market town of Masham. We started with a pastoral walk –

Near Masham
Walking with Margaret

– after which we were joined by Margaret’s husband Malcolm for a very nice lunch in the White Bear (shown in the first image below). When they left for home John and I explored Masham a bit more: it’s a very tidy town, even the bus stop is pretty and well kept. John was pleased to find another commemoration of the Tour de France visit in 2014.

White Bear
Town Hall
It’s a sign
Cairn for Grand Depart
Cairn for Grand Depart
Bus stop
Bruce Arms

St Mary’s Church in Masham was well worth a visit. Outside was an Anglo-Saxon cross shaft dating from the 9th century.

Church exterior, Anglo-Saxon cross shaft to left of porch.
Anglo-Saxon cross shaft

Inside also had intriguing features (more details in captions).

Nave
Millennium Window by Glenn Carter
Wyvill Monument. Sir Marmaduke (d 1617/8), his wife Lady Magdalen and, at the base, their 8 surviving children (of 12)
Crucifixion
Stained glass
Madonna and Child by John A Blakey. Donated by T&R Theakston 1994.

On our way back to our B&B we stopped at Jervaulx, a Cistercian abbey dedicated to St Mary in 1156. The abbey ruins are charming and the tea room is good too! There were also a few benches for Jude.

Gate
Statue
Garden bench
Jervaulx Abbey, Yorkshire
Rusty bench 1
Rusty bench 2

This was the last day of our holiday. The next day we headed back to Glasgow – in the rain. Normal service had resumed!

Next week I’m going back in time to fill in a bit more of my 2023/24 black hole. I’m a completist, I can’t let it go!

England, UK , , , , ,

52 Comments »

  1. Another lovely post about the Yorkshire Dales, Anabel. I have been to Masham a few times but not for quite a few years and also have fond memories of Aysgarth Falls. The Tour de Yorkshire was a big deal and they later held the World Cycling Championships in Harrogate where my dad lives. Such beautiful photos 🙂

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  2. I love the bike sculpture (Mike would love it too) and the pub humor. One to remember: “Tequila! Helping women to lower their standards for years.” And the walk around Aysgarth Falls and Bolton Castle looks beautiful and pastoral. Thanks for sharing your trip. 🙂

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  10. I’m a Yorkshire lass from way back, but, sadly, never saw much of this beautiful area. I left in 1960. So I find it fascinating to visit, virtually, with you and sigh about all I’ve missed.

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  13. Sigh! I really must get up to Yorkshire. Masham looks very pretty, maybe a good base? And I love those ornate benches, are they really rusty or is it simply the colour? Love your photo of Aysgarth falls, are they easy to reach?

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    • Yes, I would happily stay in Masham. There is a fairly big carpark and a visitor centre with cafe at the falls. The photograph is of the upper falls and taken from the road bridge – the path to them is fairly level. There are paths on the other side of the carpark to the middle and lower falls – quite a lot of steps down. I didn’t actually sit on the benches so not sure of the texture – if it’s really rust, paint, or what. Just saw a bench and thought – Jude!

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  17. There is something special about most towns and landscape of Yorkshire… are always tidy, full of interest and pretty. Great photos making me want to return for another visit one day!

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  24. It’s a lovely area and worth more than one visit. I made a brief stop in Leyburn a couple of years ago with friends as we were passing through and I was impressed enough to research the possibility of camping near there but haven’t managed it yet. I like the church in Masham and the photo of Aysgarth falls is lovely.

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