Cumbria 2023: Dalemain and Lowther, two loops on the Ullswater Way
Keen readers might remember that earlier this year we walked part of the Ullswater Way. Two years ago we had already walked the loops shown on the right hand side above, from Dalemain and from Lowther Castle.
Dalemain
Dalemain is a historic house and garden near Pooley Bridge at the eastern end of Ullswater. It is only possible to visit the house by guided tour which we didn’t have time for, but we did make use of the tearoom and purchased some marmalade from the shop, Dalemain being the home of the World Marmalade Awards. Both shop and tearoom are in old barn buildings. We didn’t have time for the Fell Pony Museum either!
We did have time to stroll round the gardens and park before setting off.
Then it was on with the walk, a five mile loop. On leaving the estate we walked on a lane through farmland towards the 14th century Dacre Castle, now a private home.
Dacre itself is pretty and has a set of ancient stocks on its village green which I almost persuaded John into.
The main point of interest, though, was the church – St Andrew’s with its four “bears” in the churchyard, an example of which is in the gallery below. Apparently they represent the story of a bear-like creature fending off a devilish attacker and consuming it.
Inside, one of the most attractive features is the stained glass window in memory of local MP and former cabinet minister William Whitelaw (1918-1999). He was the trusted right-hand man of Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher who famously opined that “everyone needs a Willie”. Thatcher was a woman who seemed to me to be totally devoid of humour (as well as many other qualities) so I doubt she saw the joke. Whitelaw and his wife Celia are buried next to each other in the graveyard.
From Dacre we walked through more fields, skirted the wooded Dunmallard Hill, and descended into Pooley Bridge for a late lunch.
We then headed along the River Eamont to return to Dalemain.
Lowther Castle
There has been a house at Lowther since the 12th century, but today’s castle was built in 1812. It’s now a ruin, de-roofed in 1957, surrounded by 130 acres of gardens. However, we left exploring till later and set off first on the Lowther Castle Loop of roughly 8 miles.
We started by walking along the River Lowther to the small village of Helton.
From here we passed a couple of farms until a sign sent us off across the open fell past the prominent Cop Stone.
We next reached a crossroads with the main Ullswater Way with views down to the lake. We were above Pooley Bridge which we had reached on the Dalemain Loop.
Today we didn’t head for Pooley Bridge but took the track towards Askham with the castle coming back into view in the distance. It was a hot day and the sheep were finding it a bit much!
When we reached Askham we thought it was a very pretty village, though we didn’t have time to visit the church.
From Askham it wasn’t far back to Lowther Castle where we explored the gardens and had a much needed cold drink in the Courtyard Café.
These were two lovely days out combining history, gardens and walking. What could be better? Well, three more walks from this trip to come next time – on one of which we even help police with their enquiries. And we’ve just returned from another trip to Cumbria in which we completed the Ullswater Way so that will follow soon too. In the meantime, I’m linking this post to Jo’s Monday Walk.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
What a beautiful walk! I love the gardens, the buildings and the views!
LikeLike
Yes, gorgeous walks with a lot of variety.
LikeLike
I haven’t been to Dalemain yet. I loved Lowther Castle and I am looking forward to go back with Marcus to bring him to the massive outdoor castle playground 😁.
LikeLike
We went back to Dalemain last week. It’s lovely inside, but I doubt there’d be anything to interest Marcus!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Yes I think he is a bit too young to enjoy it. He will like the walk in the estate.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Lots to enjoy here. See you at Dalemain for the Marmalade Festival next year!
LikeLike
You never know! Maybe to taste your winning entry. One of the rooms they show you is a sort of shrine to marmalade with jars everywhere.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Goodness. How very British!
LikeLiked by 1 person
You clearly (pun intended) had beautiful weather for your walks on this trip!
LikeLike
We did! This was the first week of three and it started to go downhill a bit after Cumbria.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Both walks look lovely! Lowther Castle looks an interesting place to visit. It’s a shame it’s now a ruined shell, it must have been a fabulous building in its day.
LikeLike
It must have been magnificent! I guess like a lot of these places they just couldn’t afford the upkeep.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Love that part of the world and actually its kind of home as my mum and brother live in Askham. The farm is at the top of the village on the right in your photo walking down towards Askham with the castle appearing again. You can’t see the farm in the photo. Lowther is lovely and along with Dalemain has appeared on my blog a few times. The walk to Dalemain is also known as The Marmalade March. X
LikeLike
That’s interesting, I know you have written about it but I didn’t realise (or maybe had forgotten) that your family was there. We must almost have passed their house!
LikeLiked by 1 person
That north eastern part of the Lakes is one of the areas up there that I’ve not really explored. I think that, now I’ve more time on my hands, I need to follow your example!
LikeLike
Well, as you know we were devotees of Grasmere and Ambleside for many years but I think Ullswater is definitely the new favourite. We completed the other sections of the Way on our recent visit – coming up next post but one.
LikeLike
Hi Anabel – it is a lovely part of the world and you certainly had wonderful weather. Definitely a place one could see at any time of year … so awaiting your next visit. The thing that always comes to mind with the Lowthers is the link to Boxing … gorgeous time for you both, though I’m glad John wasn’t left in the stocks! Cheers Hilary
LikeLike
Thanks Hilary, it’s a beautiful part of the world – we’ve already been back twice since this trip so it’s fair to say we are fans of Ullswater!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks for the tour. World Marmalade Award – who would have thought!
LikeLike
Well, apparently the thousands of people worldwide who enter (last year’s winner was from Japan) but not me until I went there!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Amazing and varied scenery in a relatively small area. Great photos and you were so lucky with the beautiful weather
LikeLike
We were lucky with the weather, it was one of those Septembers that are summer’s last fling. The Lake District is a jewel.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Even though I’ve been up the hills all around Ullswater those loop walks are completely new to me. The path network in the Lake District is incredible as it packs so many scenic walks and history into such a small area. I’ve often thought there’s more five star walks in the Lakes than in the whole of the Scottish Highland mainland as if we wanted to do a lower route up there in poor weather we often struggled to find one that was sheltered. Just bare empty treeless glens to walk through in driving wind and rain. I’d pick the Lakes every time. Bob. BSS.
LikeLike
The Ullswater Way was just “invented” in 2015 and the loops were later additions so they were probably not publicised so much before. I agree about the Lakes in general, it’s so easy to find an interesting walk.
LikeLike
You had glorious weather for these walks and the scenery is stunning. I haven’t heard of the World Marmalade Awards before and I would definitely buy some if we went there. Glen doesn’t like marmalade so I would have it all to myself. 🙂
LikeLike
Apparently they do get entries from all over the world – the latest winner was Japanese!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I have been to both places, and your post gives me a good nudge to get out and about more with so many excellent places to visit near at hand.
LikeLike
I hadn’t visited either before – we visited Dalemain again last week because I wanted to see inside the house.
LikeLiked by 1 person
An excellent five mile walk. Thanks for taking me along!
LikeLike
Thanks for coming along virtually!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Lowther Castle looks rather impressive for a ruin. That’s my sort of place to explore.
LikeLike
I like what they’ve done with it, given it was too far gone to rescue – making it part of the garden really works.
LikeLiked by 1 person
These do look like lovely walks and in beautiful weather! The gardens are both very pretty and I do like Willie Whitelaw’s window. I might not have shared his political beliefs but at least he did seem rather more human than Thatcher!
LikeLike
They were both lovely places to visit, and great walks. I think Willie Whitelaw was an old-school Tory whom you could at least respect. Not many like that left.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s years since I’ve been to either of these. Doesn’t Lowthwr have a wildlife park or am I thinking of somewhere else? I remember Dalemain at some kind of garden event when James was just a boy and we took grandma for Sunday jaunts. I’m reading this at the beach and the waves are having great fun. Will look at it properly later xx
LikeLike
I didn’t know that, but apparently there was a wildlife park at Lowther – it closed in 2000!
LikeLike
See how old I am! I think it was mostly deer xx
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a beautiful day you had for it. I love the bears
LikeLike
We struck the tail end of a heatwave here!
LikeLiked by 1 person
So many beautiful historic buildings. I looked up the Dacre bears, it’s a curious tale!
LikeLike
I know, the unexpected things you come across in small country churchyards!
LikeLike
long long time since I walked in this part of the world – I think I need to return sooner rather than later. Glorious
LikeLike
We just got back from another visit on Saturday. Definitely glorious! (Even in Storm Amy).
LikeLiked by 1 person
So it doesnt have a roof, but does have a cafe. Priorities!
LikeLike
The café was important after that hot walk!
LikeLike
Very impressive looking castles!
LikeLike
Yes, we liked them both – and have recently been back and seen inside Dalemain.
LikeLike
Lowther Castle is one I’ve been meaning to go to on my various camping trips but haven’t got there yet as I always seem to bypass it – I didn’t realise it doesn’t have a roof. I really like the Whitelaw window in the church, the colours are beautiful.
LikeLike
It’s really lovely, Eunice. There is an exhibition in one part with a roof but the rest is ruined and becoming part of the garden.
LikeLiked by 1 person