Another three walks in Cumbria
When we stayed in the Brackenrigg Inn for a few nights in June we passed this lovely one-bedroomed rental cottage, Beck House Barn, several times on our way to and from the Ullswater Way. Looking for somewhere to go at the end of September / beginning of October, I checked it out and found it was free at just the right time and we booked up. It was comfortable and well-furbished with friendly, helpful owners next door in the main house. We loved it – just perfect for the two of us, although some of the locals were a bit nosy.
Our first objective was to walk the rest of the Ullswater Way, which I wrote about in my previous post, but there were plenty of other things to do – despite the weather deteriorating.
Keswick to Threlkeld Railway Path and Castlerigg Stone Circle
A chance conversation in a tearoom alerted us to this walk. The Cockermouth, Keswick and Penrith Railway opened in 1864 to transport iron ore from the mines in West Cumberland to the blast furnaces of the North East. It also carried tourists from around 1866 through to the mid-20th century, by which time it was making large losses, trade and tourism having been taken over by the lorry and the car. By 1972 the entire line was closed.
It then became a walking route until disaster struck in 2015 with Storm Desmond which swept much of it away. Over 5 years, the path was re-layed, bridges repaired or replaced and a tunnel which had been filled in was reopened. Interesting information boards were placed along the way and the Railway Path came back into use in December 2020. It’s 5km long and crosses the River Greta no less than eight times.
Arriving in Threlkeld we had a look around before and after a very good lunch in the Village Hall Café.
Rather than go back to Keswick the way we came we decided to go via minor roads which took us past Castlerigg Stone Circle. In contrast to the sunny views we had on the Ullswater Way the fells were shrouded in mist – no less lovely in my opinion.
Just before we got to the circle the welcome sight of the Hungry Heifer at the Activity Centre surprised us – we enjoyed a coffee while watching a group of maybe-10-year-olds learning to use the climbing wall. They were really good!
According to the English Heritage website:
Castlerigg is perhaps the most atmospheric and dramatically sited of all British stone circles, with panoramic views and the mountains of Helvellyn and High Seat as a backdrop.
It is also among the earliest British circles, raised in about 3000 BC during the Neolithic period.
It was certainly dramatic – and busy! All credit to John, he managed to get one shot with no people in it.
It wasn’t far from here back down to Keswick. We passed an amusing bench for those approaching the circle from the opposite direction and a telecom cabinet with a quote from William Wallace. We thought Keswick was an unlikely place for this: even more unlikely, it seems that Sine Missione is the handle of a street artist from Liverpool!
Driving back from Keswick we spotted a sign for Mirehouse, and guess where we went the next day?
Mirehouse
This was another serendipitous find. Not only had we not heard of it when I spotted the sign, when I checked online I discovered that the house was only open on Wednesday and Thursday afternoons. The next day was Thursday so off we went.
The house was built by the Earl of Derby in 1666 and has only been sold once, to Roger Gregg in 1688, since when it has passed by inheritance. No photography is allowed inside because the house is still home to the Spedding family. However I can report that it is really interesting, especially for its wealth of manuscript collections: these include James Spedding’s collection of Francis Bacon’s works as well as letters from Wordsworth, Tennyson, Southey, Thomas Carlyle and John Constable: all friends of the family.
Around the house are well laid out gardens and walks, often with poetic connections, and the lovely St Bega’s Church. With morning coffee, lunch, and afternoon tea taken in the Old Sawmill Tearoom across the road we spent the whole day here.
The Bee Garden
Created around 1780 and restored in the 1990s, this garden has been planted particularly to benefit honeybees.
The Poetry Walk
A small rose garden honours Alfred Tennyson and Edward FitzGerald with lines from their poems, The Lady of Shalott and The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam. The Poetry Walk continues next to the Clock Tower with work from David Scott who served as Vicar in a nearby parish from 1980-1991. There is a good view of the back of the house from here.
St Bega’s Church
Across the parkland lies the pretty church of St Bega.
Lakeside Walk
After visiting the church we retraced our steps back towards the house and followed the signs for the Lakeland Walk, the lake in this case being Bassenthwaite. Tennyson was again commemorated at the place where it is thought he composed much of Morte d’Arthur.
This was a lovely visit which we highly recommend should you be in the area.
Grisedale
Our last day at Beck House Barn was Friday 3rd October – the day of Storm Amy. So which idiots went for a 6.5 mile walk up Grisedale? That would be us! We got wet.
Still, our spirits were not dampened and we went back to the cottage to dry out in front of the log fire as we watched the sky turn beautiful colours.
The next day, thankfully, was less stormy for our drive home after a wonderful week.
Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk (although it’s a Medley this week).
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
Stunning photos Anabel. Three of the regulars place we bring our visitors.
Brought my mum to Castlerigg mid October, she loved it.
LikeLike
Castlerigg is a gem.
LikeLiked by 1 person
That last walk looks especially pretty in spite of, or maybe because of, the rain! At least you had a warm place to dry off in the end!
LikeLike
It shows the wisdom of always renting a place with a good log fire! Dries you off in no time.
LikeLike
Well that was brave going out in the face of Amy. Even our local Ramblers cancelled a planned walk due tot he storm and I think it was worse up in the Lakes. I’m glad you survived!
John did very well getting that shot of Castlerigg. perhaps the wind had blown them away. It probably would have done the next day 😂
LikeLike
To be fair, it wasn’t raining yet when we started and we thought we might get round before things got too bad. Probably bonkers rather than brave! I think John was lucky that folk all seemed to move to the side at once and he got his shot straight down the middle.
LikeLike
Awesome trip report. It sounds like Beck House Barn was the perfect cozy base camp! That Keswick-to-Threlkeld Railway Path rebuild is seriously impressive—a testament to what can happen when a community rallies around history and infrastructure. And while the Castlerigg views were atmospheric, it’s the Mirehouse find that’s the real gem. A house steeped in the manuscripts of Wordsworth and Tennyson is a serendipitous literary goldmine. Even the Storm Amy soak at Grisedale couldn’t dampen that. http://www.melodyjacob.com
LikeLike
Thanks for the lovely comment! Sorry for the delay in replying – I’ve just fished you out of spam.
LikeLike
All the rain makes it very green and scenic so that’s one bonus for the landscape. I remember being down there during a couple of large flooding events in the past, with several town streets underwater and sunken cars stranded in car parks. Amazing how fast the place bounced back to normal though to be ready for tourists again. That impressed me. Bob. BSS
LikeLike
Oh dear, I hope never to experience that! We didn’t have flooding, it was “just” very wet and windy.
LikeLike
Loved all these places. Look like excellent walking venues. I was curious about these storms, the one that took out the trail and Storm Amy. Are these like hurricanes? Is this place near the coast? (Well, I guess all the UK is sort of near the coast.)
LikeLike
You always ask interesting questions! Usually very strong winds and torrential rain. I had to look this up because I wasn’t sure of the exact definition of a hurricane and according to the Met Office: “Hurricanes are tropical features and require sea temperatures much higher than those around the UK, even in the summer. Hence, hurricanes cannot form at our latitudes.” But our storms can be ex-hurricanes blowing across the Atlantic. This area is about 20-25 miles from the sea.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I was curious partly because the one had a name, which I’m used to for hurricanes and cyclones, but not run-of-the-mill storms.
LikeLike
The serious ones get names, red warning with danger to life.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sometimes scenery is especially interesting under grey skies! And you do have a knack for finding great places to stay, I’m a little envious of that. The Mirehouse was well worth the visit, and how nice that you discovered it!
LikeLike
Thank you, Ann. I do seem to have a good eye for accommodation!
LikeLike
I’ve never been to Cumbria much to my regret and after reading your post the regret is even deeper. What a great amount of colour you’ve got in your images and I love that purple sky you finish with!
LikeLike
Thanks Mari – the autumn colours were beautiful. Could have done without the wind and rain though, but we made the best of it!
LikeLike
Your accommodation is so pretty – what a treat to stay in such a gorgeous building. And it looks like you were busy every day. Isn’t it nice when you find out about a new place and it turns out to be as good as the recommendation.
LikeLike
We struck lucky all along here – spotting the cottage on our previous visit, getting good weather at the beginning to finish the Way, and then finding out about new places by chance.
LikeLiked by 1 person
You are inspiring to make sure that we go to the Lake District next year (or even this year if the weather is inviting). Apart from going to the theatre in Keswick, we have not taken advantage of this beautiful place on our doorstep for what seems like years and years.
LikeLike
It’s so handy for you! It’s not that far for us but an awful lot of M74 to put up with.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s like the sky lit up to acknowledge your safe return. Wet weather and slippery paths aren’t my favourite things. Having said that, I would rather have rain than the horrid wind we have been having of late. The Bee Garden caught my curiosity, and the fact that it had been restored in the 1990s after being created in 1780. Here we are thinking that being “conservationists” is something new.
LikeLike
What a lovely way of looking at it, Suzanne! As for wind – that got much stronger after we were back, I wouldn’t have liked to walk in that.
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a fabulous neighbour! It all looks delightful, even Grisedale in the midst of Storm Amy. I do love a chance encounter that leads to a great walk, attraction or restaurant. Some of my favourite adventures have been the result of a random conversation.
LikeLike
Yes, we had no further plan beyond completing the Ullswater Way so it was good that ideas presented themselves in fortunate ways. Saved a lot of time thinking!
LikeLiked by 1 person
A wonderful account of your very interesting holiday. All new to me! Loved the Castlerigg stone circle…what a view! Pleased the storm didn’t deter you from exploring and walking!
LikeLike
One of the advantages of a cottage rather than a hotel room is that you have a comfortable place to relax in if you decide not to brave the weather – and if you do, you have all mod cons to sort out the results! In this case flinging everything we were wearing into the washing machine.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sounds and looked like the perfect holiday. Pleased you had a great time.
LikeLiked by 1 person
If we stayed at home every time a storm is forecast we’d never go over the doors, Anabel. I enjoyed this romp around the Lakes. I wasn’t familiar with any of it, although I do remember Bassenthwaite as being beautiful. Many thanks for the link. My medleys are just a variation on a theme xx
LikeLike
This is very true! Though we may not have been entirely wise this time as the water made the paths very slippery.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Speaking of Keswick, the name had traveled across the ocean. The Keswick Theater is about five miles from my house.
https://www.keswicktheatre.com/events
LikeLike
It’s interesting when that happens! I got into conversation with another blogger recently about the name Berwick crossing the Atlantic and I will ask you the same as I asked her – how do you pronounce it? I’m betting the W is not silent. (Here it’s Berrick and Kezzick.)
LikeLiked by 1 person
In my area, the W is not silent.
LikeLike
Interesting! Such words / names intrigue me – I always wonder when they changed.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I think Castlerigg stone circle has by far the best setting of all the megaliths
LikeLike
I think so too – stunning.
LikeLike
That looks to have been a lovely week away and the sky in that last photo really is spectacular.
LikeLike
It was a lovely week, thanks. The sky was good to look out on while being thankful that we were now home and dry!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Fantastic shot of Castlerigg stone circle. We’ve been there a few times. We were staying just down the road in Keswick and might well have bumped into you.
I also like the Grisedale photos. They look very like my recent photos from Morvern. Rain and mist can be challenging to hike in, but they do make for atmospheric images. Coming home to a log fire helps. A tent does not quite cut it. 🙂
LikeLike
No, we were very glad to go home to a warm cottage with a washing machine and a shower! I do like my home comforts.
LikeLike
Oh yes. I love coming back home after a hiking trip and revelling in all the home comforts.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Seems like a lovely week away despite the weather. I’ve never heard of Mirehouse and it looks like a place I would like. If I ever get back up to the Lakes I shall have to investigate. Castlerigg stone circle I have been to on a similar damp day. Wonderful views.
LikeLike
I hadn’t heard of Mirehouse either – I thought I knew everywhere around there by now. It was a lovely visit.
LikeLiked by 1 person
You definitely specialise in hunting down the interesting and the quirky when you’re out and about!
LikeLike
Yes, though Storm Amy had a few too many quirks!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Like all her sisters and brothers!
LikeLike
Indeed!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Beautifully enticing photographs! I enjoy reading about your travels.
LikeLike
Thanks, Anne – I’m glad to hear that!
LikeLike
I do agree with you about the fells looking just as good under these misty skies, although the weather was maybe less good for walking. The gate belonging to the Toon Fan caught my eye, naturally 🙂 I love the idea of both bee and poetry gardens too.
A small point – you’ve crossed over your captions on the quotes from The Lady of Shalott and The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam. The latter is a favourite of mine which is why I made a point of checking that phot!
LikeLike
The Toon Fan gate was specially for you! Thanks for noticing the error in the captions which I’ll correct later.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you 🖤🤍
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a perfect selection
A lot of memories from many visits though I’ve missed the house
One to add to the list. I guess the weather kept you from Grisedale Tarn? Years since I saw that on my way up Helevellyn
LikeLike
Thanks Geoff – no, we didn’t go as far as the tarn, we might have got washed away! We have been up Helvellyn before but via a different route so Grisedale Tarn remains a mystery.
LikeLiked by 1 person
love trips that are full of serendipity
LikeLike
PS having to leave comments via the reader at moment on your posts as WP refusing me all other ways 😦
LikeLike
Oh no! I’m not aware of changing any settings but I’ll have a look. Are you getting an error message or what?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Getting thrown out and being asked to sign in again, even though I am signed in. It is really bizarre. Reader is a good work around though so don’t spend too much time investigating xx
LikeLike
That happens to me sometimes, then it just passes for whatever reason. Nothing personal, honest!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sometimes it’s good not to plan too much!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I agree 😀
LikeLiked by 1 person
Would love to visit the Castlerigg stone circle some time ………..great photos.
LikeLike
Thanks! The circle has a great atmosphere despite all the people (and the biting cold).
LikeLike
You are so lucky to have such beautiful places around where you live…all of these hikes were lovely even though quite wet…(Suzanne)
LikeLike
Yes, we are lucky to have the Lakes to the south and the Highlands to the north – both easy to travel to.
LikeLike
Fantastic walking and the perfect time of year for it. Autumn sits well on that landscape.
LikeLike
It does! It’s beautiful even in a storm.
LikeLike