North Wales 2023: Llanrwst in the rain
This was a very wet day on our North Wales trip. We hung about in our cottage to see if it got better, but it didn’t so we set off for the nearby town of Llanwrst where our guidebook listed a short walk. It was still pouring when we got there so we decided to visit the church, St Grwst’s, first.
Llanrwst is Welsh for parish of St Grwst. He lived in the 6th century but the current church is late 15th century. It has an interesting combination of ancient and modern interior: the layout was reordered in 2019 so that it could be used for a variety of different events, as well as church services. The 13th-century stone coffin is that of Llywelyn the Great and the fifteenth century knight’s effigy is Hywel Coetmore, a Welsh knight who played a leading part in Prince Owain Glyndŵr’s rebellion against the Kingdom of England around 1400-1415. The large, elaborate 17th century memorial is to the Wynne family.
Was it still raining when we came out – yes! Time for lunch in a very picturesque place. Tu Hwnt i’r Bont (Welsh for beyond the bridge) is a 15th-century grade II listed building on the other side of the River Conwy from Llanrwst. It was originally built as a farmhouse but has had several other uses including, currently, a tearoom. The bridge, Pont Fawr (Big Bridge), is by Inigo Jones (c. 1636).
And you will not be surprised to learn that it was still raining after lunch, but we went for our walk anyway. According to the notes we should have had spectacular views of Snowdonia and the Conwy Valley. It didn’t quite work out that way, but we met a nice horse.
Happily, the next day the sun returned and we visited Anglesey.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
Pity about the rain, but that’s Eryri for you!
I’ve only ever driven through LLanwrst – never had a look, bt doesn’t seem to be much there.
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Just the church really – it was interesting.
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It sounds like when we were in Wales – rain one day and sunshine the next. But either way, it’s so beautiful. I’m looking forward to seeing where you went on Anglesey. We stayed there for a week.
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We were lucky, this was our only wet day of the week. We only had time for a couple of things in Anglesey, but I could see it would be a good place to stay.
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We found lots to see and do.
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I love Tu Hwnt i’r Bont; very picturesque.
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very picturesque – and very popular!
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As long as it wasn’t his! (Bike)
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No, definitely not! He’d have been distraught.
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Or should I have said…ONE of his bikes!
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The bridge and the tea house are so picturesque. Yes I imagine there wouldn’t be a view! But kudos to you for still walking it!
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Got to get my steps in somehow, rain or shine!
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It’s a good thing there were some indoor sights at least for part of the day. I may have said this before, but those Welsh seem to have a vowel phobia!
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I think you have! But effectively the w is a vowel.
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I love the look of the church, the bridge and the tea room building. You did very well on a rainy day.
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We did! Though it was the sort of day where I was glad to be in a cottage with a washing machine rather than having to dry out in a hotel room.
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I am sorry about the views of the mountains, but at least you got a church and a good tearoom. I really like that bridge.
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Oh well, we’ve seen mountains before and will see them again! It was a good day all the same.
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You always seem to make the best of your visits.
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Always too bad when it rains while on vacation but there isn’t much one can do about the weather. I think you managed well for a rainy day. Nice area of Wales. (Suzanne)
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As I’ve said to others, we’re used to it coming from Glasgow! Our expectations are low so we are less likely to be disappointed.
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Pity about the rain but looks a great place to visit.
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It was our one wet day that week so we couldn’t really complain. too much!
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Rain is a pain!
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True, but it gives us our lush greenness so I can forgive it. Some of the time!
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Sorry it was raining again ! Everyone said when I moved from Wales to Scotland that the weather would be much worse but far from it…Aberdeenshire is much drier…maybe a tad colder but overall very pleasant! I remember seeing the tearoom…who could miss the creeper covered building…but I never went in. Great effigy of Hwyel Coetmore with hound at feet!
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Ah yes – the east coast, definitely drier and colder. We notice that too!
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Fabulous looking tearooms, Anabel, but there’s only so long you can linger, isn’t there? On with the waterproofs xx
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Especially a popular tearoom where we were lucky to get the last table!
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I’m sure all Glaswegians have to take a wet day in their stride. You seem to have coped well.
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Yes, we are well used to it! Never go anywhere without rain gear.
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I just can’t get over the creeper on that building!
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It’s incredible – given the National Trust is the ultimate owner I’m surprised they allowed the risk to the structure. Apparently, from the website, it has been trimmed since we were there, because the roof was getting damaged and Himalayan balsam had taken root too.
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I freak out when mine reaches the gutter.
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Not surprised!
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Hi Anabel – interesting … love the look of the church interiors, the cottage – is that Virginia Creeper covering it – horrid wet weather, but oh so necessary (at times) – cheers Hilary
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Yes it is Virginia creeper – apparently it has been trimmed back since we were there for the first time in 20 years.
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thank goodness for churches and tearooms!
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They certainly filled in the time very nicely!
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You seem to have made the best of things with this church visit and cosy tea room lunch. I was surprised to read that a village this small had a bridge designed by Inigo Jones!
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You prompted me to check my memory and it seems I should have said ‘attributed’ to Inigo Jones, based on circumstantial evidence. So not 100% certain – but of course, the village might not have seemed that small in the 17th century.
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That Ivy covered house is amazing. If I have to go out in the rain I always pick rivers or waterfalls as that’s when they are at their best. I’ve never agreed though with the ‘no such thing as bad weather just the wrong clothes’ approach. Never get my head around that enough to enjoy a day long downpour outdoors. Even with full gore-tex on at some point you still get soaked and feel miserable and frozen by the end of it. Usually drowned in your own sweat if climbing a large hill with it on. Bob. BSS.
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We did get wet and miserable, but it was only a short walk and we were lucky to have the church and tearoom to spend more time in and keep dry!
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Such a shame it rained for your visit to Llanrwst, it’s an attractive place in good weather and the farmhouse tea room is so pretty. It’s a very popular place and was very busy when I went – a queue right out through the door – so I got something from the take-away hatch and took it back to the van. My ex’s sister-in-law’s sister lives in Llanwrwst and has a holiday cottage and caravan. I’m really enjoying reading your take on places I’m very familiar with and very much looking forward to Anglesey.
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If there had been a queue this day we’d have gone somewhere else! It was so cold. When writing this post I checked Google Maps to make sure I got the spellings right and, sadly, both bridge and tearoom are shown as temporarily closed. I think the tearoom is just seasonal, but not sure about the bridge. In Anglesey we went to Parys mountain which I doubt I would have heard of had I not read about it on your blog.
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