North Wales 2023: Caernarfon
On our last day in North Wales we visited Caernarfon, site of another of Edward I’s great castles. We left exploring inside the castle till the end and walked around the town’s other sights first.
We started with a coffee in the café at Galeri Caernarfon (performing arts centre) which looked out on Victoria Dock Marina, because why not? We found the artwork a bit disturbing!
Walking beyond the marina we got fabulous views of the castle’s exterior.
Moving into Castle Square we found statues to David Lloyd George (1863-1945), an early 20th century British Prime Minister, and Sir Hugh Owen (1804-1881) a philanthropist whose main interest was education.
Our next stop was at the Welsh Highland Railway which opened in 1923, uniting several older lines. It only functioned commercially until 1937, but was taken over by a group of railway enthusiasts in 1961 and gradually reopened. Don’t worry, I was in no danger!
From here we took a quiet riverside path (Afon Seoint / Saint River) before emerging back onto a road near the medieval church, Eglwys Lanbeblig.
Close to this is the entrance to the remains of the Roman fort of Segontium, built in the year 77 and occupied until around 394. The information board gives an artist’s impression of how it might have looked.
Back down in the main part of town we had lunch and spotted some street art.
Now it was time for the castle! Begun in 1283 and taking 47 years to complete, as with Conwy, Castell Caernarfon was part of Edward I’s “iron ring” intended to subdue the Welsh and assert English dominance. It’s certainly imposing.
Also like Castell Conwy, this castle has a series of artworks. Perhaps the most impressive is Counting the cost by Rubin Enyon which shows the hands of Edward’s Chamberlain with silver pennies spilling through his fingers. After seizing Wales in 1282, Edward I appropriated all the revenues of Lywelyn ap Gruffud, the last native Prince of Wales, to fund his castle building programme so effectively the Welsh people were paying for their own suppression.
Understandably, Edward I is not a popular figure in Wales (or Scotland – he is also known as Hammer of the Scots). However my view of him has softened slightly (very slightly) after reading Eleanor: a 200 mile walk in search of England’s lost Queen by Alice Loxton. Edward married Eleanor of Castile when they were both in their early teens, and unlike many royal marriages this one was loving and happy. When Eleanor died aged 49 in 1290 Edward was distraught, seeking prayers for the soul of his wife “whom living we dearly cherished, and whom dead we cannot cease to love”. Her body was carried on a 200-mile journey to London from where she died near Lincoln, and to mark the places where she rested overnight a heartbroken Edward commissioned twelve magnificent Eleanor Crosses. Loxton recreates the whole route on foot telling us the story of Edward and Eleanor as she goes. So a good husband – but still a nasty, violent warrior king!
On a lighter note, we enjoyed making the acquaintance of this quirky skeleton, and got good views from the castle back over the town.
I liked this castle’s signage too. The pedantically wordy sign is from Conwy, the two pictorial ones are from Caernarfon – immediately obvious what they mean whether you understand English or not!
The following day we packed up and left for the third leg of our UK road trip, this time returning to Scotland. However, my next posts will be more up to date. And as this is my last post of 2025 I’ll end by wishing you all the best for 2026.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
Nope, not been to Caernarfon, but it does look interesting. Love the coins! And all the benches. David and I were going to go back to Portmeirion for our 25th wedding anniversary as we spent one night there after our wedding and spend some time exploring the parts of north Wales I hadn’t visited including the Llŷn peninsula. Maybe I’ll get my daughter to come with me for a long weekend.
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Have to say I agree with you about the art work at the top of the post….
Thanks for your tour of Wales. It has been so interesting.
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I was only in Caernarfon for the Investiture in goodness knows what year, Anabel. I was with Dad and it was crowded so I saw very little. I enjoyed a closer look with you. Many thanks for your company this year, and happy, healthy New Year to you and John xx
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I think that skeleton is friendly. It looks like it is itching to have a good conversation.
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You could be right! It’s definitely grinning.
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Another town that seems to have moved on a great deal since our last visit, maybe 20 years ago. Though I too feel I could do without the headless figures in Galeri Caernarfon. Happy New Year to you both!
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Yes, the headless figures were very weird! Happy new year to you and Malcolm too.
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At least you were not tied to the tracks! Love the coins. Happy New Year in advance. 🙂
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Yes, I could have been in a silent movie! Happy New Year to you and your family.
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A very impressive castle but I bet the subdued Welsh population found it more oppressive than impressive. That Counting the Cost artwork is fantastic!
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Oops, forgot to wish you a Happy New Year! I’m still finding it hard to believe that we’re so close to the end of another year 😏
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I know, where does the time go? Happy New Year to you and Chris.
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I’m sure many people still have ambivalent feelings about these castles! The artwork was one of several symbolic pieces, often featuring hands.
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It’s a very impressive castle. Nice artwork. Bob. BSS.
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Thanks Bob, I agree, though as I’ve been saying to people I preferred Conwy on the whole.
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Caernarvon Castle is one I haven’t been to yet in spite of visiting the town several times over the last ten years – I have a cousin who is clubhouse manager at Caernarvon Golf Club. Nice photos of the marina and the castle, I like the happy looking skeleton and the street art but the artwork in the gallery looks rather weird.
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The castle was interesting, though I preferred Conwy. There was quite a lot of symbolic sculpture which I rather liked.
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Nice post. I have found memories of our visit to Caernarfon in 2001. It was quite an impressive castle; as were some of the other castles built by Edward I.
Hope you had a great holiday seasons and our best wishes for 2026. To more good adventures and new discoveries. (Suzanne)
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It’s a very impressive castle, though I preferred Conwy. Just about any castle is good though! We had a great holiday thanks – and it included a castle. Happy New Year to you and Pierre.
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I really need to visit Wales. It seems like there’s so much to explore. The castle looks amazing … mind you, give me a castle and I’ll be happy. Happy New Year when it comes, Anabel
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There is a lot to explore, I don’t know it nearly well enough. Happy New Year!
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Interesting post Anabel. I do like a historical story. They really made castles to last back in the day. Loved all the artwork and sculptures too.
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Edward seems to have thrown up a good number of these castles very quickly, and yet here they still are! Nothing today will last that long.
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Castell Caernarfon looks like a fairytale castle, although with a history like that I don’t think any additional stories are required. I’ve added the Eleanor book to my list to look up, sounds a great read.
Happy New Year and all the best for 2026!
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Thanks Helen! All the best to you and your family too. The Eleanor book was interesting and made me want to visit one of the remaining crosses. When I collected the book from the library the assistant asked me if I was planning to do the whole walk! I draw the line at that.
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always think of this as a proper castle! What a lovely day you had, well maybe not the artwork!!
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It certainly is a proper castle, a fine ending to our Welsh trip. It’s been fun reliving it.
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It is a wonderful town, when I first went there it was called Carnarvon.
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It is lovely. I think most of the anglicised names have gone which is no bad thing but sometimes hard to remember!
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