Christmas in Northumberland: Howick
As mentioned in December’s Gallivanting post, we spent Christmas in The Old School, a cottage in Howick in Northumberland. The village school was originally in the building next door with the children having lessons downstairs and the master and his family living above. The built-on Victorian school room was just that: one large room where both infants and juniors studied (approximately ages 5-11). Today it is a comfortable cottage with the living quarters downstairs and a mezzanine floor added for the bedroom.
At the other side of the cottage from the view above there is a plaque to the last headteacher, Ena Taylor, who worked there from 1940 until the school closed in 1960.
The plaque is almost illegible these days, but there is an active heritage group in the village and a selection of their publications was left out for us to peruse. I found information about Ena in one of them, including a photograph of her with a class. I love stumbling across these little snippets of women’s history.
If visiting in the summer we would have been able to visit the gardens at Howick Hall whose most famous resident was Charles, 2nd Earl Grey (1764-1845), Prime Minister from 1830 to 1834. His government enacted the Reform Acts of 1832, which expanded the electorate in the United Kingdom, and the Slavery Abolition Act of 1833, which abolished slavery in the British Empire. He also gave his name to Earl Grey Tea which was originally blended for him with bergamot extract to offset the lime in the local Howick water. Another fabulous piece of history to be living in!
Almost all the houses in the village still belong to the Howick Estate. It’s a pretty little place, although we never saw any of the resident hedgehogs, slow or otherwise.
For six days we walked around this lovely area – more to follow. It’s definitely somewhere I’d like to go back to, not least to visit those gardens.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
The village looks lovely and a wonderful place to spend Christmas. I knew the tea was named after Earl Grey, but I had no idea why. Now I do, thank you 🙂
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It was a lovely place to spend Christmas, very cosy and peaceful.
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That looks a lovely place to stay. I think we went to Howick Hall when I was about 7 – I need to see if I can find the old pictures as my mum was good at labelling things.
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Despite growing up in NE England I had never heard of it, even though I had been to nearby places such as Craster. I’m surprised, because my parents loved gardens.
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I love old school photos…it would be wonderful to discover what became of all those lovely children and were all their ambitions fulfilled! Fred certainly did well…maybe he’s in the photo!Good to know where the name Earl Grey came from …mind you I’m a coffee drinker and the Earl Grey in the cupboard is just for visitors!
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They are such nice looking children and seem to be enjoying their schooldays. I haven’t bought Earl Grey for a long time. I like the occasional cup, but prefer coffee or breakfast tea.
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Well, that’s the happiest school photo I’ve ever seen. I think going away for the Christmas break is such a good idea. Your accommodation looks fabulous. I’m growing bergamot (herb) in the garden this year, though not for tea as the blooms are lovely and tall and perfect for our apartment foyer flower arrangement.
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They are a jolly crowd! I think the photographer must have just cracked a joke. I’m intrigued by all the badges some of the boys are wearing – and the fact that the girl in the back row appears to be holding a cat.
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Aha, now I know where the name Earl Grey in the tea comes from. So, is the entire old school a cottage now – the one you stayed at – or are there other parts to it as well?
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We were just in the Victorian extension – the original house is still separate. Confusingly our cottage was called The Old School and next door was The School House. I think people have wandered into the wrong one before!
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I’ve been through Howick I think, but never got around to stopping to explore. I did know about the connection to Earl Grey and the tea named after him, but not the reason for the bergamot – an interesting snippet. And of course he also gave his name to one of Newcastle’s most famous sights, Grey’s Monument!
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Grey and the 1832 Reform Bill were big things in my school history lessons, and naturally we were proud that he was “one of us”, but I never wondered where he actually lived – it was quite a surprise to discover him in Howick!
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Northumberland is a surprisingly quiet yet scenic area. We were rock climbing and walking there for a week years ago yet it was very empty for the most part, even the sandy beaches, despite several major cities and large towns being only an hours drive away and a sunny summer weekend included. Still quiet away from the obvious few honeypots. Contrast that with Scotland’s ‘remotest wilderness area’ Knoydart which was packed the weekend we visited, hundreds of tourists wandering around one small village and the local shop and pub. The lure of Munro bagging and dozens of glossy magazine spreads on ‘how remote it is’ being the main difference presumably. Bob. BSS.
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We didn’t see huge numbers of people – the busiest time was Christmas Day when I thought everyone would have been home cooking their turkeys but it seems not!
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I’d never heard of bergamot before. I looked it up via google. A certain section of Italy is the largest grower of bergamot trees.
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I knew the tea had bergamot in it but didn’t know why until I read about it at the cottage.
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Looks absolutely lovely. (Suzanne)
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thanks Suzanne – it was!
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As one who enjoys Earl Grey tea, I am particularly interested to learn that it was “originally blended for him with bergamot extract to offset the lime in the local Howick water” – we keep on learning 🙂
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I had no idea about that either! I knew it was named after him, but not why.
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We walked this way last summer from Low Newton to Boulmer but didn’t venture into the village – lovely part of the world.
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The village is a bit of a detour off the coastal path. We visited both those places on different days. It is indeed lovely.
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A nice post to set me up for what is going to be a very busy day, I’m looking forward to reading more. Interesting to read about Ena Taylor and I like the hedgehog sign although I can’t say I’ve ever seen any fast hedgehogs, they all seem to be slow 🦔😊
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I always find these signs amusing, though it’s usually Slow Sheep rather than Slow Hedgehogs! Hope your busy day goes well.
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I went out just after posting my previous comment and I’ve only just got back. My boss is having some guests to stay and asked me to do a deep clean at the bungalow – time to put my feet up now I think 😊
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I think so! With a nice cup of tea.
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