Christmas in Northumberland: Craster and Dunstanburgh
On our first day in Howick we set off on foot straight from our cottage to take the Northumberland Coast Path north to Dunstanburgh via Craster. In the second image below you can see both in the distance: the village of Craster on the left and Dunstanburgh Castle on the horizon. It was a damp, grey, blowy morning as you can probably see.
Things cheered up at Craster when we noticed the local pub, The Jolly Fisherman, was open for coffee and Christmas cookies. A stop for elevenses could not be missed.
Craster is a fishing village known for its kippers – not something that interests me, but John sometimes eats them.
From Craster it’s an easy, grassy walk to Dunstanburgh Castle, the 14th century stronghold of Thomas, Earl of Lancaster. What an imposing place!
We explored the ruins thoroughly, the best bit being climbing the tower for views over the coast and surrounding countryside.
Then we walked round the perimeter of the site which took us to Lilburn Tower, named after John de Lilburn, constable of the castle after Earl Thomas was executed in 1322.
On leaving the castle, rather than return the way we came, we took an inland route to make a circular walk. This was largely over farmland and very muddy – in fact, this was a feature of the whole week. Any time we got off the sand we found mud, lots of it. Also, although only mid-afternoon, it was starting to get quite dark so the only photo of note I have is of these two beauties whom we met on the path. The nearer one sidled up to us hopefully, but we had nothing to eat. The gorse covered cliffs in the background are known as heughs.
The next day we decided to visit Alnwick. This post is linked to Jo’s Monday Walk.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
Aw we missed out on this walk too, definitely one for the future. Such a beautiful area. Plenty of castles!
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Yes, it was a nice walk. We did it the day after we arrived (Sunday) because the castles are only open at weekends in winter and that was our only chance. We went to Warkworth later in the week and could only see its castle from outside.
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Lovely walk Anabel. The coastal path is really good around there. We did a great circular walk passing by Craster and Dunstanburgh castle.
Nice that the pub was open for some rest and sweets.
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The coastal path is lovely. I think I remember you writing about your walk though it probably wan’t as muddy for you!
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We went in june and it was quite warm.
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What a lovely treat to find a nice cafe along the way.
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That’s always a good thing!
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This looks like a great walk (despite the weather), made all the better by the castle! It looks like it would have been a magnificent fortress in its day.
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Yes, it was a great walk. and you can’t beat a good castle!
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This looks windy and cold but so much fun to see the sights even with the mud. Love that castle!
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the castle was great, my favourite kind of place.
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Stunning scenes. Loved the castle remains. They always intrigue me. So, what did the Earl do to get executed? Wrong side politically?
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He was a cousin of King Edward II and rebelled against him. Always a dangerous business – he was executed for treason.
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Beautiful photos even though it definitely wasnt a stellar day. Sometimes the path less traveled is not always the best idea! Love the horses though and the ruins are absolutely spectacular. I am amazed that the tower is still sturdy enough to climb.
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The tower stairs are fairly intact for two or three stories, can’t quite remember – high enough to get good views (and with all health and safety precautions of course).
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It is a lovely part of the world. I love kippers so we bought some at Craster when we were on holiday at Dunstanburgh.
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You couldn’t be in a better place for them, but I’ll stick to the cookies!
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Got our Internet back at last! This is such a familiar walk for me, Anabel. The last time I did it was drizzly and grey. Mick was struggling with gout, which hadn’t yet been diagnosed, so I raced there and back while he hobbled along. Thanks for the memory xx
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It was drizzly and grey for us too, though thankfully no gout. Just my dodgy feet and John’s dodgy knees. Glad you are back online at last.
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Enjoyed reading all about your visit it all looks very interesting. I used to like kippers .., not anymore!
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I don’t eat fish so can’t really pass judgement – though I don’t like the smell much!
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It all looks lovely and so interesting. You deserved your treats after all that walking.
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Well, to be fair, we hadn’t walked all that far before the cookies – but I’m sure we deserved them!
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You two certainly looked wild and free along the coast, you hardy Scots. Lovely smile while having a cuppa.
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Don’t know about wild and free, but who wouldn’t smile with those big Christmas cookies in front of them?!
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Not many under the age of 98 years.
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Maybe your tastebuds give up at 98!
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The castle looks very dramatic. What a great trip!
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Yes it was – I love a ruined castle, and one with views over the sea is even more special.
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I’ve not yet found a finer approach to a castle. Magnificent. I know I’m biased. 😉
However, kippers, I could never get near them. 🤢
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Totally agree on both points. We could see Dunstanburgh for most of the week it was so prominent. Even in my non-veggie days (which is going back over 40 years now) I didn’t like kippers (or most fish to be honest! Too many bones.)
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When we were on holiday on the Northumberland coast we visited Craster and walked your route. We did buy some kippers despite the notice in the kitchen of our holiday home requesting visitors not to cook Craster kippers the day before leaving. I wonder why? 😉
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Can’t imagine! Ours had no such strictures but we wouldn’t have bought any anyway. I suspect we leave wafts of garlic in our holiday homes though.
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Don’t we all? 😋
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😀
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I would have liked to have visited Craster, but not enough time and it’s a long way now. You certainly didn’t let the weather put you off and I agree with you that the bench was worth a photo.
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Oh good, approval from the Queen of Benches!
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You and John deal with the elements and ground conditions very well. Dampness, wind and lots of mud didn’t hold you back!
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We would never go anywhere if we waited for good weather!
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Looks lovely despite the gloomy weather. I hope the mud wasn’t too slippery as it can get tricky. Days are so short in December, it gets dark too quickly. (Suzanne)
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There were a few near misses on the mud but no disasters! The weather was dry after this day but still dull until the last day which was brighter.
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When I saw the post title I was going to ask if you got some kippers. It was a sunny day when I went to Craster in 2012, the harbour and cottages look really pretty with blue sky and sunshine. I like the ponies, a shame you had nothing for them though.
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Although John isn’t a vegetarian we don’t have meat or fish in the house so he only gets kippers in a hotel breakfast. The last time we were in Craster it was sunny too, but that was when mum and dad lived in Newcastle so a very long time ago, pre-1994.
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One of my favourite Northumberland walks is that short stretch from Craster to Dunstanburgh and back, but I’ve never properly explored the castle. Having seen your photos I’m determined to do so next time!
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I would recommend it! There’s a nice little ticket office / visitor centre where you can get hot drinks to take away and snacks. After our Christmas cookies we were happy with coffee and crisps for lunch which we had at one of the picnic tables – what a terrible diet!
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Sounds like us on holiday!
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I can’t remember what we ate that night but I’m sure it was healthy!
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Damp, grey, blowy mornings and days are what we’re having every day in Costa Rica in January, so I feel your pain. I’m sure it wasn’t fun walking through mud either. But you still had some beautiful views, and a warm stop in the pub for Christmas cookies. That sounds quite cozy! I don’t know that I’ve ever tasted kippers. What are they like, sardines?
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The weather did improve, though it was still muddy. Kippers are a kind of smoked herring, popular for breakfast mainly.
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Looks a nice dramatic coastline and you certainly are not deterred by inclement weather. I used to love kippers, even tinned ones. Not allowed to eat any seafood now, even fish fingers, due to developing a slight allergic reaction, but not a full blown one just uncomfortable enough to stop. Bob. BSS.
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I don’t eat meat or fish at all, but even when I did kippers never appealed! It’s a lovely coastline – and the weather picked up over the week so this was the only day we got wet.
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