Christmas in Northumberland: Alnwick
On our second full day in Northumberland we explored Alnwick (pronounced Annick). Walking from the car park towards the castle we encountered our first Percy, Henry otherwise known as Harry Hotspur, son of the 1st Earl of Northumberland.
We soon arrived at the castle itself – owned by the Percy family since 1309 and currently home to the 12th Duke of Northumberland and his family.
At one time, the castle was surrounded by three parks which provided the medieval earls with wood and game. Only one remains – Hulne Park, which was reworked by landscape architect Capability Brown in the 18th century on behalf of the 1st Duke. We headed here next.
Because it is private property you must keep to one of three designated walking trails. We chose the four mile yellow route to Brizlee Hill which is topped by a Gothic tower designed by Robert Adam and erected by the 1st Duke, Hugh Percy, in memory of his wife Elizabeth who died in 1776.
From the tower we followed a loop around the top of the hill which took us past a walled garden – locked, but we were able to admire it from the other side of the splendid gates. The gate pillars bear the Percy family motto, Esperance en Dieu / Hope in God, and the date 2007, presumably when the garden was created or restored.
Opposite the gates was a lovely view which would have been even better on a sunny day. Still can’t resist a bench!
Before rejoining the main path we found a small cave guarded by what is probably an 18th-century statue of a White Friar.
After arriving back in the centre of town we had lunch in a pub called the Dirty Bottles. I didn’t know the reason for the name until we walked post this window after we left. Allegedly a true story!
After lunch we crossed the River Aln via the Lion Bridge, another 18th century Robert Adam design, the straight-tailed lion being a symbol of the Percy family.
The views of the castle from the opposite bank were lovely, but the riverside path was very muddy, and it was starting to get dark, so we abandoned it at the next bridge and headed back into town, arriving by the War Memorial and the Tenantry Column.
The latter, topped by another lion, was erected in 1816 by the townsfolk to thank the 2nd Duke for reducing their rents. I can think of better things they could have spent their money on than a piece of forelock tugging.
Finally, before going back to the cottage, we popped into Barter Books, one of the country’s largest second-hand book shops. I admired but did not buy. More books I do not need.
The following day we were back on the coastal path, this time to Boulmer.
Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk.
The Glasgow Gallivanter 
Those gates are magnificent and I love the story behind the pub name. I admire your fortitude in not buying any books. If I walk into a bookstore, especially a second hand or independent store, I am going to buy at least one book. I have to just not go into the store at all to keep myself under control.
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The gates are beautiful – there are similar ones at the gardens at the castle. I think if we’d been in the bookshop longer I might have succumbed but it was the end of the day just before we went home. Also, there was so much to look at in the building itself that I was distracted!
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We’ve been to Alnwick many times but I’ve never ventured into the Dirty Bottles pub. I know the story but always wondered if the pub might be trading too much on that and might be a bit gimmicky. How did you find the food?
We’ve never done that particular walk and it looks lovely, so noted for our next visit 🙂
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There was nothing about the bottles inside as far as I know – we only noticed them after we left. It’s a Greene King pub so a fairly standard menu. We had sandwiches and they were fine, plus, I confess, a side of fries which were lovely and crispy. The walk is not terribly interesting until you get to the hill itself.
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There was a great deal to see on your visit and I’ve loved taking your tour! Such history and interest to enjoy even on a drizzly December day! Not sure why the town needs ‘lights’ to make people visit…so much else to see! The bookshop looks fun and you must have a strong will not to buy a book…especially at Christmas!
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I did my best not to look too closely at the books! Mind you, there were so many I would hardly have known where to start.
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Hi Anabel – my father and I went to Alnmouth in the 1970s – it was ‘stinking’ hot!! We boiled … it was almost unbearable. He’d been at school with a Percy … hence the interest and he had a new car. I’d love to go back … and I really want to see the Poison Garden that the latest Duchess established … while yes I’d love to visit the town and the book store – I’d read about it somewhere. Looks fun – but a cold, misty time – cheers Hilary
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I haven’t visited the gardens yet, though we have been to the castle before (neither are open over the winter). We went to Alnmouth on Christmas Day and had a lovely walk there.
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Nice hike though the weather wasn’t the best but I guess this is normal around Christmas time. The castle looks very impressive. (Suzanne)
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It was very grey but at least it didn’t actually rain. We visited the castle about 10 years ago and it is very impressive inside too.
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I enjoy the story of The Dirty Bottles. Although I too do not need any more books, I might well have come outside with at least one tucked under my arm!
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I did my best by not even touching a book!
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I remember driving through that archway, I must have been en route to the castle but there was such a bottleneck of traffic I gave up, turned round, and went back to where I’d come from without seeing anything of the town so it’s nice to see your take on it. I like the ornate garden gate and the lion bridge though I don’t believe the story of the bottles. The bookshop looks great though, – I love the mural and the model train, I would go in there just to see those.
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We were parked the other side of that arch, a bit out of town, where it was quieter. I forgot to say that the bookshop is in the old station building, though it’s probably obvious. There were at least two murals to look at.
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Alnwick is lovely I managed to fit in a visit there too when I was walking that part of the coast, including the castle. I’m afraid as soon as I hear the Percy family though it makes me think of Lord Percy Percy in Blackadder!
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That’s just the second person the name Percy makes me think of. One of my grandfathers was called Percy. Given the way names are recycled in our family I’m glad I was born a girl!
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Wonderful! Thanks, Anabel! Though I’ve been to Alnwick a few times I’ve always gone into the gardens and never walked in the area so this is a treat. I love the friar but I’m staying well away from those bottles. The book shop is a lot of fun too xx
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I’ve not been to the gardens yet, though I have visited the castle. Neither open at this time of year. The walk up to the tower was not terribly interesting but the circuit round the top of the hill was good with the tower, garden and – of course – the poor old friar.
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