13th April 2026

This walk began with a bus ride to Xaghra where we visited the ruins of Ggantija Temple, Gozo’s richest archaeological site. Built from six metre high monoliths, it’s the oldest free-standing structure in the world.

After our bit of culture we felt we needed a coffee break, so we stopped in Xaghra’s Victory Square.

The next couple of miles were easy road walking to Calypso’s Cave, a natural cave alleged to be the one in the Odyssey where the nymph Calypso kept Odysseus prisoner for seven years after he was ship-wrecked. It’s closed, but still has a good viewing platform from which you can look down on Ramla Bay, our next destination. I also loved this round-ended apartment block which we passed on the way and which reminded me of Glasgow’s gushet buildings.

Before the bay we had to pass through the ruin you can see centre right in the second image above. This is an old hotel, Ulysses Lodge. Health and safety seemed not to be an issue!

We avoided the temptation to fling ourselves through the open arches of the ruin’s upper story and continued down to the bay. The path was dry and crumbly – not conditions Scots are entirely familiar with – and, unfortunately, disaster struck.

I started off well, but towards the bottom the path got steeper and steeper and I slipped, ending up on the ground with pain tearing up through my right ankle and calf. Fortunately, with John’s help, I could stand up and hobble on but the ankle remained swollen and painful for weeks.

After lunch in the beach café we walked onto the sand (not easy under the circumstances) to view the Madonna, an unusual beach feature.

There was a bus stop at Ramla Bay which we could have used, but I was determined to continue the walk to Xewkija, another three and a half miles on. Whether this was sensible or not I don’t know, but we took it slow and steady and made it with no further damage. Xewkija is home to the enormous dome we could see on just about every walk – The Parish Church of St John the Baptist, better known as the Rotunda. I didn’t want to miss visiting that.

Built around a 17th century church that was too small for the community’s needs, this more recent structure was completed in 1971 and can seat around three times the village’s population. Once again, I marvelled at the extravagance shown as recently as the mid-twentieth century and wondered how the money could have been better used.

Reservations aside, we visited the church – free, but I think we paid a small sum to take the lift up to the dome.

Although in theory we had another two or three miles to walk, by this time I definitely wanted to call it a day and we caught a bus from just outside the church back to Victoria. While I relaxed in the hotel, John went in search of ankle supports and arnica which helped a lot. We decided to take it easy (or easier) the next day. There was still a lot to see!

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk.