Gozo walking 4: Xaghra to Xewkija

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Ggantija Temple

13th April 2026

This walk began with a bus ride to Xaghra where we visited the ruins of Ggantija Temple, Gozo’s richest archaeological site. Built from six metre high monoliths, it’s the oldest free-standing structure in the world.

After our bit of culture we felt we needed a coffee break, so we stopped in Xaghra’s Victory Square.

The next couple of miles were easy road walking to Calypso’s Cave, a natural cave alleged to be the one in the Odyssey where the nymph Calypso kept Odysseus prisoner for seven years after he was ship-wrecked. It’s closed, but still has a good viewing platform from which you can look down on Ramla Bay, our next destination. I also loved this round-ended apartment block which we passed on the way and which reminded me of Glasgow’s gushet buildings.

Before the bay we had to pass through the ruin you can see centre right in the second image above. This is an old hotel, Ulysses Lodge. Health and safety seemed not to be an issue!

We avoided the temptation to fling ourselves through the open arches of the ruin’s upper story and continued down to the bay. The path was dry and crumbly – not conditions Scots are entirely familiar with – and, unfortunately, disaster struck.

I started off well, but towards the bottom the path got steeper and steeper and I slipped, ending up on the ground with pain tearing up through my right ankle and calf. Fortunately, with John’s help, I could stand up and hobble on but the ankle remained swollen and painful for weeks.

After lunch in the beach café we walked onto the sand (not easy under the circumstances) to view the Madonna, an unusual beach feature.

There was a bus stop at Ramla Bay which we could have used, but I was determined to continue the walk to Xewkija, another three and a half miles on. Whether this was sensible or not I don’t know, but we took it slow and steady and made it with no further damage. Xewkija is home to the enormous dome we could see on just about every walk – The Parish Church of St John the Baptist, better known as the Rotunda. I didn’t want to miss visiting that.

Built around a 17th century church that was too small for the community’s needs, this more recent structure was completed in 1971 and can seat around three times the village’s population. Once again, I marvelled at the extravagance shown as recently as the mid-twentieth century and wondered how the money could have been better used.

Reservations aside, we visited the church – free, but I think we paid a small sum to take the lift up to the dome.

Xewkija Rotunda – interior
Xewkija Rotunda – on the roof

Although in theory we had another two or three miles to walk, by this time I definitely wanted to call it a day and we caught a bus from just outside the church back to Victoria. While I relaxed in the hotel, John went in search of ankle supports and arnica which helped a lot. We decided to take it easy (or easier) the next day. There was still a lot to see!

Linked to Jo’s Monday Walk.

Gozo, Malta , ,

35 Comments »

  1. Such a small island (had to Wikipedia it for size etc) yet what a lot to see. Bummer about the foot. I get the whole “let’s just get on with this – stuff to see”. I did mostly the same once I got the boot to stabilize the fracture. Glad it healed up well. Bernie

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  2. What a memorable walk! From ancient temples to beautiful bays and incredible views, Gozo looks fascinating. I’m sorry about your ankle — it’s amazing you managed to continue, but I hope it recovered well. Walking adventures always seem to come with a few unexpected stories!

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  4. Funnily enough I’ve just watched two different boat Journeys on TV revisiting the Odyssey journey and Calypso’s Cave and actor Richard E Grant is appearing there soon as well for TV… all due to the recent film. Sprains can take a long time to heal. Thankfully it has cooled down a bit here to comfortable temperatures again. Even 26C in full sunshine is a hot walk so you went to Gozo at the right time of year as it looks a warm island. Bob. BSS.

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  7. They say that zig-zagging downhill is easier on your knees and less likely to cause a fall. That’s the theory. There is certainly more to Gozo than I ever thought. I never got over the extravagance lavished on the churches in Europe. Extraordinary and stunning.

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  8. Gozo looks alovely island, I have never been but did visit Malta very briefly on business over 20 years ago. Sorry to hear of your ankle, but was most taken with your determination to continue to get The most you could out of the rest of your holiday! Very pleased to hear that it all seems to be healed up now.

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  9. Who’d have thought there would be so much to do and so many places of interest to visit on Gozo! The temple is fascinating and the walk to the Bay had many good views but fraught with danger! Sorry you had such an unfortunate and painful slip …you were very brave to keep going! Love the Madonna but strange site for it!! Good views from the roof of the Rotunda. Thank you for sharing it sounds a really lovely holiday …except for your hurt ankle!

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  10. I can sympathise with the ankle. It’s happened to me a few times and like you I just keep going, hobbling, limping, swollen foot and all. Perhaps the healing time would be shorter if it wasn’t walked with. Anyway I’m glad you kept going. Gozo is a lovely island.

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  11. Sorry to hear about your sprained ankle; and you are quite a trouper to continue walking with a painful ankle. I certainly hope it is back to health now. Nice hike though; Gozo is such a beautiful island. (Suzanne)

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  12. Such a shame you damaged your ankle but I’m glad you didn’t let it spoil the rest of your holiday. The church interior looks lovely and that stained glass window is beautiful.

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  14. Having seen The Odyssey last night I was taken by the thought of visiting Calypso’s cave – a shame it was closed. Still, lots of other things to see on this walk, but poor you, falling like that. I’m impressed that you kept going – I think (know!) I would have called it a day at that point. I hope the ankle is feeling better by now?

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  15. We sometimes do stupid things, Anabel, like continue to hobble, but I’d almost certainly have done the same. Funny how people don’t seem to begrudge the money spent on churches. Passport to a better life? This one’s not too bad. Thanks hon xx

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    • I was telling a friend when I got back and she said she went to a physio when she hurt her ankle and he said the worst thing is to sit and do nothing. So maybe I was right to keep going – a different matter if I’d broken it, but I was lucky.

      I suppose as a non-religious person I don’t get the afterlife thing! This was by no means the most OTT church we saw – some really horrors to come.

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