April Squares: Kinabalu

All the hillwalking we did in the first part of 2005 was to prepare us for a trip to Borneo to climb Mount Kinabalu (13,435ft) in July. This is not the highest we’ve ever been – Pikes Peak in Colorado, which featured in an earlier #SquareTops, is 14,115ft. However, a road goes up to its summit so that’s not comparable in terms of achievement. Kinabalu was a really tough, two-day hike, and even though we started at 6,122ft that still meant we climbed over 7,000ft at altitude.
Because John had hurt his back six weeks earlier we were out of shape, and I hated every second. If I were to select the worst experience of my life, Kinabalu would be right there near the top of my list. I don’t even feel a sense of pride that we did it – but anyhow, here we are at the same point as the picture above to prove we were really there.

We’re on our way back down, which is probably why I have managed a smile. The white rope denotes the route to follow across the summit plateau – it wasn’t necessary for us because it was a clear day, but people have wandered off the correct route in the mist and died. The peak behind us is not the one we climbed which was Low’s Peak, the actual summit. Another peak, Donkey’s Ears, was partially destroyed in an earthquake in which several people died in 2015. Sometimes I feel very lucky to be alive, and someday I will get around to telling the full horror story of our adventure.
Here ends my mini-series-within-a-series of top of the world shots for Becky’s #SquareTops challenge. For the rest of the month I’ll be featuring some of the smaller hills we’ve tackled in the last few years.

It sounds dreadful, and I’m quite sure I would have hated it every bit as much as you did (probably even more!), but good on you for making it to the top anyway. I probably would have given up on the first day to return to the bottom, find a hotel, and read a book in comfort whilst waiting for everyone else to finish!
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The problem is you’re not allowed on the mountain without a guide, and we only had one between us so John would have had to agree! I confess I seriously contemplated staying in the overnight hostel and not doing the final ascent though – well, when I say overnight, that’s an exaggeration. I think we got up at 2am or something so that we could be at the top for sunrise.
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2am?! I would die! I’m lucky if I’ve even fallen asleep by then.
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It wasn’t easy!
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That’s a very impressive achievement – you must have felt very pleased. The rock formation at the summit is amazing.
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Well, sort of pleased – but I really wished I hadn’t done it!
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😦 That’s a bit like me trying the Yorkshire 3 Peaks challenge – though not as impressive!
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I’m impressed you made it up there on your own two feet! You have some amazing pictures of your travels, by the way.
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Thanks Ann! I’m impressed to (largely by how idiotic I was to try it 😉).
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Just reading this is enough to put me off ever wanting to do anything like it, even on a smaller mountain – I’m not even interested in walking up Snowdon! I’m glad you lived to tell the tale – I’d love to read the full story though now you’ve mentioned it 🙂
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I really don’t know what I was thinking! Of this lockdown goes on much longer I might tell the full tale, but it sort of started the year before so there’s a long lead in.
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Wow, sounds rather terrible. I do like that first photo though.
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I know, stunning! Looked even better before cropping.
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Anabel, that’s so impressive. What an achievement. Your smiles are more like grimaces. 🙂
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I think you have a point there! Definitely putting a brave face on, on my part anyway.
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A dear friend of mine has been to Borneo twice and I have to ask if he climbed this. I would enjoy the story you have climbing this but John must have been in bad pain because this is not an easy climb as you know full well but must have been horrible with his back pain.
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I think his back had significantly improved by then, he didn’t have any trouble with it. The main problem was the weeks of training we lost.
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Just getting to the mountain in Borneo must have been a trial in itself. Glad you made it back or we wouldn’t have all these other adventures of yours to follow!
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Getting there wasn’t difficult: a driver picked us up and delivered us to a guide at the beginning of the walk (you weren’t allowed on the mountain without a guide). It was just the climbing that was difficult! Coming down was surprisingly hard too.
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Anabel, Stunning photos! I cannot imagine the difficulty of the hike. Darn on the ‘hated every second.’ Darn on the horror story. Interesting about the rope. You remind me how sometimes the best part of a hike is when it is over.
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The feeling when it was over was euphoric, I can tell you!
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That’s impressive. Not many people go to Borneo let alone climb the mountains there. Well done.
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Thanks Bob! I enjoyed the rest of Borneo: not so much the mountain.
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Hi, Anabel – I LOVE Kinabalu! Thank you for taking me back there!
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I’m glad somebody does! I didn’t love it as you might have gathered. But I lived to tell the tale.
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I hadn’t realised quite how widespread your Gallivanting has been!
(I’m not sure I could handle the horror story though…)
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We used to be very well travelled! Not so much these last few years.
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Wow! I’m sorry that it was a miserable struggle but it must have been amazing to stand at the top and take in the views. Sometimes the worst experiences turn into the best stories.
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That view from the plateau was great but the actual summit was so crowded you could barely stand on it! It’s something I now know I CAN do (or could) but never need to again.
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Wow!
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Better to look at than to do!
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Quite!
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I was about to ask your if altitude sickness affected you but I gather from one of your replies above that it does. It certainly affects me, and at only mild elevations. It’s a ghastly feeling. I remember having to be transported down from Monserrat (outside Barcelona) and most people thought I was drunk because there was a large drinking party of Brits there at the time whereas my husband and I had had nothing. You were brave to attempt Kinabalu considering John had just had his accident but sometimes we are not always as sensible as maybe we should be. You did well though, and no one would guess you weren’t enjoying every minute at the top in that photograph.
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It’s so unpredictable, Mari. Neither of us has had altitude sickness as such, but we’ve both been affected. John felt quite ill here the night before the summit (you go up so far then stay in a hostel) whereas I was ok. The time before at altitude, he was fine and I was poorly all week! So I don’t particularly want to risk it again.
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The very name is magic, but I’m sorry it was such a bad experience for you. 😦
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Oh well, a long time ago now! I can look back and (almost) laugh.
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I’d really love to hear that horror story. It sounds like a miserable hike, but at least you got to the top! I’m impressed.
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It was a struggle! I might try to tell the whole story soon. It’s not as if I’m going anywhere else.
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What bad timing for the trip, or do you think you would have struggled anyway. I don’t think I would enjoy 2days hike to climb 7000ft . . I prefer to take my time! Incredible summit though 🙂
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I think if we’d been able to keep walking for those six weeks it would have been better, but still very tough. Our aim had been Ben Nevis which, realistically, we’d have had to do on two successive days to climb the same height!
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So tough, walking at altitude is never easy
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A shame you didn’t enjoy it,it looks wonderful.
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Way, way out of my comfort zone!
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The Glasgow gallivanters gallivanting Borneo, That’s pretty much cool, dear Anabel
My regards
Achim
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Thanks Achim, it didn’t feel cool at the time!
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Impressive. You were quite the mountaineer. Have you been up Kilimanjaro or Machu Picchu?
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Kilimanjaro is a much bigger undertaking which I would never have contemplated. We did think once about taking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu but something else called more strongly that year, and after Kinabalu I vowed never to do any such thing again. Also, our experiences with altitude put me off even getting transport in. So that’s one destination which I’d love to see and probably never will now.
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I can imagine that altitude sickness must be extremely debilitating.
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Horrible!
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🥴
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