Cumbria 2023: Dalemain and Lowther, two loops on the Ullswater Way

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Ullswater Way

Keen readers might remember that earlier this year we walked part of the Ullswater Way. Two years ago we had already walked the loops shown on the right hand side above, from Dalemain and from Lowther Castle.

Dalemain

Dalemain – the house

Dalemain is a historic house and garden near Pooley Bridge at the eastern end of Ullswater. It is only possible to visit the house by guided tour which we didn’t have time for, but we did make use of the tearoom and purchased some marmalade from the shop, Dalemain being the home of the World Marmalade Awards. Both shop and tearoom are in old barn buildings. We didn’t have time for the Fell Pony Museum either!

Old barn and courtyard
16th century barn

We did have time to stroll round the gardens and park before setting off.

House and gardens
Spiral Garden
Spiral made of shells
Roses past their best
Dacre Beck
Roses past their best

Then it was on with the walk, a five mile loop. On leaving the estate we walked on a lane through farmland towards the 14th century Dacre Castle, now a private home.

Through farmland
Glimpsing Dacre Castle
Dacre Castle

Dacre itself is pretty and has a set of ancient stocks on its village green which I almost persuaded John into.

Dacre
Stocks on Dacre village green

The main point of interest, though, was the church – St Andrew’s with its four “bears” in the churchyard, an example of which is in the gallery below. Apparently they represent the story of a bear-like creature fending off a devilish attacker and consuming it.

“Bear” in the churchyard
St Andrew’s, Dacre
St Andrew’s, Dacre

Inside, one of the most attractive features is the stained glass window in memory of local MP and former cabinet minister William Whitelaw (1918-1999). He was the trusted right-hand man of Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher who famously opined that “everyone needs a Willie”. Thatcher was a woman who seemed to me to be totally devoid of humour (as well as many other qualities) so I doubt she saw the joke. Whitelaw and his wife Celia are buried next to each other in the graveyard.

Whitelaw Window
Whitelaw graves

From Dacre we walked through more fields, skirted the wooded Dunmallard Hill, and descended into Pooley Bridge for a late lunch.

Dunlmallard Hill
Pooley Bridge

We then headed along the River Eamont to return to Dalemain.

River Eamont
Return to Dalemain

Lowther Castle

There has been a house at Lowther since the 12th century, but today’s castle was built in 1812. It’s now a ruin, de-roofed in 1957, surrounded by 130 acres of gardens. However, we left exploring till later and set off first on the Lowther Castle Loop of roughly 8 miles.

Approaching Lowther Castle

We started by walking along the River Lowther to the small village of Helton.

River Lowther
Helton

From here we passed a couple of farms until a sign sent us off across the open fell past the prominent Cop Stone.

Heltonhead Farm
Cop Stone

We next reached a crossroads with the main Ullswater Way with views down to the lake. We were above Pooley Bridge which we had reached on the Dalemain Loop.

Link with main Ullswater Way
View down to Ullswater

Today we didn’t head for Pooley Bridge but took the track towards Askham with the castle coming back into view in the distance. It was a hot day and the sheep were finding it a bit much!

Sheltering sheep
Castle coming back into view

When we reached Askham we thought it was a very pretty village, though we didn’t have time to visit the church.

St Peter’s, Askham
Askham
Askham

From Askham it wasn’t far back to Lowther Castle where we explored the gardens and had a much needed cold drink in the Courtyard Café.

Lowther Castle and Parterre
Lowther Castle and Parterre
Rose Garden
Rose Garden
John at the viewpoint
Courtyard Cafe

These were two lovely days out combining history, gardens and walking. What could be better? Well, three more walks from this trip to come next time – on one of which we even help police with their enquiries. And we’ve just returned from another trip to Cumbria in which we completed the Ullswater Way so that will follow soon too. In the meantime, I’m linking this post to Jo’s Monday Walk.

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  8. Love that part of the world and actually its kind of home as my mum and brother live in Askham. The farm is at the top of the village on the right in your photo walking down towards Askham with the castle appearing again. You can’t see the farm in the photo. Lowther is lovely and along with Dalemain has appeared on my blog a few times. The walk to Dalemain is also known as The Marmalade March. X

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  9. That north eastern part of the Lakes is one of the areas up there that I’ve not really explored. I think that, now I’ve more time on my hands, I need to follow your example!

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  10. Hi Anabel – it is a lovely part of the world and you certainly had wonderful weather. Definitely a place one could see at any time of year … so awaiting your next visit. The thing that always comes to mind with the Lowthers is the link to Boxing … gorgeous time for you both, though I’m glad John wasn’t left in the stocks! Cheers Hilary

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  13. Even though I’ve been up the hills all around Ullswater those loop walks are completely new to me. The path network in the Lake District is incredible as it packs so many scenic walks and history into such a small area. I’ve often thought there’s more five star walks in the Lakes than in the whole of the Scottish Highland mainland as if we wanted to do a lower route up there in poor weather we often struggled to find one that was sheltered. Just bare empty treeless glens to walk through in driving wind and rain. I’d pick the Lakes every time. Bob. BSS.

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  14. You had glorious weather for these walks and the scenery is stunning. I haven’t heard of the World Marmalade Awards before and I would definitely buy some if we went there. Glen doesn’t like marmalade so I would have it all to myself. 🙂

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  18. These do look like lovely walks and in beautiful weather! The gardens are both very pretty and I do like Willie Whitelaw’s window. I might not have shared his political beliefs but at least he did seem rather more human than Thatcher!

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  19. It’s years since I’ve been to either of these. Doesn’t Lowthwr have a wildlife park or am I thinking of somewhere else? I remember Dalemain at some kind of garden event when James was just a boy and we took grandma for Sunday jaunts. I’m reading this at the beach and the waves are having great fun. Will look at it properly later xx

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  25. Lowther Castle is one I’ve been meaning to go to on my various camping trips but haven’t got there yet as I always seem to bypass it – I didn’t realise it doesn’t have a roof. I really like the Whitelaw window in the church, the colours are beautiful.

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